01/02/25 – Bakewell and Sheffield

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Discover Bakewell’s Pubs: Tradition and Craft Beer Culture

Bakewell, a historic market town in Derbyshire dating back to the Anglo-Saxon era, features landmarks such as the Bakewell Parish Church and a 13th-century bridge. It’s famous for its Bakewell pudding, created accidentally in the 1800s, and a strong brewing culture exemplified by Thornbridge Brewery, founded in 2005. The brewery utilizes a historic Burton Union system for fermentation, enriching its beer flavours. Local pubs like the Joiners Arms and The Peacock emphasize community and craft beers. Bakewell’s vibrant history includes events like the Militia Riots of 1796 and unique stories tied to establishments, enhancing its charm and appeal.

Bakewell

Bakewell is a charming market town located in Derbyshire which dates back to the Anglo-Saxon era when it was part of the kingdom of Mercia. The name comes from “Badeca’s well.” It was noted in the Domesday Book back in 1086, where it had a church and a mill. A market was set up in 1254, boosting its role in trade. Some key historical sites include the Grade I listed Bakewell Parish Church and a bridge from the 13th century that spans the River Wye. During the early medieval times, Edward the Elder fortified Bakewell, marking it as an important place for bringing different kingdoms together under one leadership.

Chesterfield Great Historic Pub Tour run pub tours around Bakewell during the year. CLICK HERE to check them out.

The Bakewell Pudding

I couldn’t visit Bakewell without trying something local! The Bakewell pudding has its roots in Bakewell from the 1800s. It all started when Mrs. Greaves, the landlady of the White Horse Inn, accidentally misread a recipe for a jam tart. Instead of mixing the almond paste into the pastry, she layered it over the jam, which resulted in a delicious egg custard that looked like a pudding. This little kitchen blunder turned out to be a hit, and by 1845, it was featured in Eliza Acton’s cookbook “Modern Cookery for Private Families.” It got its name, the ‘Bakewell pudding,’ after being discovered in Bakewell. The pudding is made with a flaky pastry and filled with a mix of almond and egg, usually served warm with custard or cream, setting it apart from the later Bakewell tart.

Thornbridge Brewery

Thornbridge Brewery was founded in 2005 by Jim Harrison and Simon Webster, starting with a 10-barrel brewery at Thornbridge Hall, and later expanding to a 30-barrel brewery in Bakewell in 2009, with a focus on producing high-quality, innovative beers, including its award-winning Jaipur IPA, and has since become a leading player in the UK craft beer scene, with exports to over 35 countries and a range of award-winning beers.

The Thornbridge Taproom is located on the Riverside Business Park in Bakewell. It was designed to enhance the brewery’s connection with its customers by providing a space where visitors can enjoy freshly brewed beer directly from the source.

In 2019, Thornbridge Brewery expanded its operations significantly by adding a new canning line. This expansion allowed them to increase their production capacity and diversify their product offerings. The brewery pushed ahead with plans for a brand-new taproom that includes an extensive bar area and a pizza kitchen. This new setup not only provides patrons with high-quality food options (pizzas) but also creates an inviting atmosphere for social gatherings and events.

Liam led the Thornbridge Experience this morning and shared an awesome history of Thornbridge Brewery, packed with loads of info. He also guided us through a tasting of 3 keg and 3 cask beers, which was totally worth it. We kicked things off with three Keg beers: Lukas – Helles Lager, Green Mountain – Session IPA, and Brock – Nitro Stout. Then we moved on to three cask beers: Jaipur – American IPA, The Great Outdoors – Bitter, and Galaxy & Simcoe – Hazy Pale Ale. To wrap it all up, I enjoyed a “Hayward” in the taproom, which was a tasty, tangy Kiwi and Lime sour beer.

Burton Union @ Thornbridge Brewery

The Burton union system is an age-old brewing technique that goes back to the 1800s. It features a lineup of wooden barrels used for fermentation, which helps create distinct flavour profiles in the beers made. This method has played a key role in the brewing legacy of Burton-upon-Trent, a place famous for its beer-making history. In early 2023, Carlsberg Marston’s announced they were retiring their historic Burton union system, raising concerns among beer lovers and historians. Aware of how important this brewing technique is, Thornbridge Brewery decided to step in and acquire a part of the system. With help from Garrett Oliver and the CMBC team, Thornbridge managed to secure a small section of the Burton union. By May 2023, Thornbridge had installed the acquired union system at their Riverside brewery. The brewing team put in a lot of effort to ensure they could properly use and care for this historic equipment. This included moving their bottling line and getting familiar with the detailed cleaning processes needed for it to work well.

The “Union set” is made up of big wooden barrels, each holding around 150 imperial gallons (or about 7 hectoliters). In the Burton Union system, every barrel has a bottom valve that connects to a trough at the bottom. The fermentation kicks off when fresh, actively fermenting ale wort is added about 12 to 24 hours after the yeast is introduced. As the yeast does its thing, it produces foam that pushes some yeast and beer out through swan neck pipes into a trough above the barrels. This trough gathers both yeast and beer; while some yeast stays in the trough, most of the beer flows back down into the barrels through another trough. Over roughly six days, healthy yeast builds up in the top trough, and the beer in the barrels gets clearer as it sheds excess yeast. The yeast collected here is top-notch and can be reused for future fermentations. Once fermentation wraps up, brewers can tap the fully fermented beer through valves at the bottom of each barrel for further processing or packaging.

Joiners Arms

A short 15 minute walk brings me back into the centre if Bakewell. My first visit here is to Joiners Arms. This used to be the coaching inn for The Rutland Arms Hotel. Back in the early 1800s, Bakewell was growing fast, which led coaching companies to set up shop there, turning places like this into popular stops. If you check out the wall inside, there’s a map of Bakewell from the 1600s that really shows how much the area has changed. Later on, it became a newsagents that was a hit because of its prime location. Martin Crapper owned it, and the locals affectionately called it “Crappers.” Martin wasn’t a fan of the nickname and tried to rename it “Martin’s,” but “Crappers” just stuck. Fun fact: the roundabout outside made an appearance in the Mission Impossible movie, Dead Reckoning, where Tom Cruise zooms around it.

The Militia Riots of 1796 in Bakewell mainly unfolded in front of The Rutland Hotel. These riots erupted due to the frustration of local militia members over bad conditions and no pay, as it was compulsory for all fighting men. Things heated up as soldiers faced off against townspeople, causing major chaos in the area. The Market Place became the hotspot for these clashes, where the tension between the militia and the locals really boiled over. This incident is a key moment in Bakewell’s history, highlighting the wider social issues of that era concerning military service and community dynamics.

The Joiners Arms opened its doors in 2019, thanks to Tim. The place has a minimalist vibe typical of micropubs, aiming to create a cosy atmosphere that highlights quality beer. Inside, you’ll find some cool joinery elements, like planes built into the bar, giving it a unique flair. This focus on craftsmanship is part of a larger trend in micropubs across the UK, where smaller spots emphasize local and artisanal drinks over the usual mass-produced options. There’s plenty of seating inside, plus some outdoor seating at the front.

On the bar a great selection of 5 cask ales today, alongside a number of keg choices, which includes a few from local Thornbridge Brewery. My first beer was “Right to Roam” from Buxton Brewery, a smooth and flavourful traditional bitter. It was brewed to honour the Kinder Mass Trespass walkers of 1932 who fought for the Right to Roam. After that, I tried “Chatsworth Gold” from Peak Ales Brewery, a delicious and well-balanced blonde ale made with honey sourced from the Chatsworth Estate.

Queens Arms

Next up is around the corner. Queens Arms in Bakewell has an impressive history that goes back over 300 years. It started out as a public house and has seen many changes over the years. The building itself is from the early 18th century, making it one of the oldest spots in the area. It holds a Grade II Listing and was initially called The Durham Ox back in 1861, since there was already a Queens Arms on Matlock Street.

A fascinating event took place in May 1905 when Lord John Sanger’s circus came to Bakewell. During a show, a large male elephant named ‘Old Paul’ got upset and refused to listen to its handlers. When the elephant started shaking one of the main tent poles, the audience freaked out and rushed for the exits. It then made its way outside but got tangled in the tent ropes, which only made it angrier. Mr. George Sanger Cunningham, the menagerie keeper, and another man were seriously hurt in the chaos. Ultimately, it was decided that the elephant posed too much of a threat and needed to be put down. A unit of Sherwood Foresters and Derbyshire Yeomanry was called in, and they shot the elephant. Some of the soldiers celebrated with a drink at the Queen’s, as the landlord at the time was Mr. Olivant. They even salvaged some macabre souvenirs, including one of the elephant’s feet, which was turned into an umbrella stand. More recently, the foot and a tooth were donated to the Old House Museum, which is open from March to November.

Today, the pub is run by Linda and Gary. When you walk in, you’re welcomed by a warm pub atmosphere filled with traditional décor like wooden beams, stone walls, and rustic furniture. This design not only adds to the place’s charm but also honours its rich history. A great line up of 5 cask beers available on the bar alongside a choice of your normal keg beers. I’m went with “Hen Cloud” today from Wincle Beer Co. in Cheshire. It’s a fantastic light, hoppy, and super refreshing pale ale.

The Peacock

Last call in Bakewell is next door to The Peacock. This is a historic spot that has been a key part of the local scene and tourism for many years. It opened its doors as a pub back in 1819 and boasts some impressive architecture, especially with its balanced roof and windows. Rumour has it that the place is haunted, with sightings of a young girl’s ghost reported upstairs. One night, after the last customers had left, a few staff members were hanging out in the bar when a dark shadow glided silently across the room. It was shapeless and hard to define, but as it brushed past the chef, it touched his elbow, making him leap to the other side of the room, yelling, “Did you see that?” The barman remarked he had never seen anyone move that quickly. Just a heads up, this ghost has a reputation for tossing glasses around!

In 1920, the Duke of Rutland put the hotel up for sale, including all the public rooms, cellar, five bedrooms, and even the garden and yard. At that time, Mary Kelly was the landlady and continued until 1935. Inside, there’s a record of every landlord, and it’s interesting to note that several of them passed away while managing the pub, often leaving their wives or daughters to take over.

A trio of 3 cask ales on offer from local Peak Ales brewery on the bar, a selection of standard keg choices and an offer of some delicious smelling food. I went with “Swift Nick” for my beer, another great pick from the local Peak Ales brewery. It’s a really tasty traditional English Bitter that’s perfectly balanced.

The Peacock at Owler Bar

A short ride on the bus heading back towards Sheffield to visit The Peacock – Owler Bar. This place has a fascinating backstory that goes all the way back to the early 1800s. It was initially built as a coaching inn and tollhouse, catering to travellers making their way along the tough routes between Sheffield and Derbyshire. This place is now recognized as a Grade II listed building, highlighting its historical and architectural value. The inn’s roots can be traced back to around 1781 when the first toll bar popped up near what we now call the ‘Fiveways’ Motel. The Duke of Rutland likely constructed the inn shortly after that. The rugged landscape and harsh weather around Owler Bar made it a vital stop for tired travellers looking for a break.

As a tollhouse, The Peacock Inn was crucial in managing traffic on the turnpike road from Baslow to Sheffield. Travelers had to pay tolls to use these roads, which were much better than the old bridle paths. The original toll bar was replaced by a newer version around 1820, and that one still stands today right below the inn.

Over the years, The Peacock has been more than just a place to rest; it’s been a cultural hotspot where locals and travellers exchanged stories. In the late 1800s, it gained fame for hosting horse trotting races and served as a coaching house where stagecoaches would switch horses before heading off to Matlock and Buxton. Many landlords have run The Peacock Inn, with notable ones like William Coates in the 1860s, who owned a famous trotting horse named ‘Blazing Bob.’ After several ownership changes in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Brougham family took over in 1884, and John Hutchinson Brougham bought the inn from the Duke of Rutland in 1927.

In February 1886, there was a significant event concerning Charles Hodkin. After spending some time at The Peacock Inn at Owler Bar, the herbalist set out to head home. Unfortunately, the weather was brutal, with heavy snow making it really dangerous to travel. Sadly, he lost his life to the harsh conditions while trying to make his way back, and his body was found later on.

Inside is a very warming, cosy and relaxing atmosphere and the smell of home cooked food is fantastic. A li e up on the bar of 3 cask ales being from Bakewell based Thornbridge Brewery and one from Sheffield’s Abbeydale Brewery. A number of keg options including a few from Thornbridge. I went with Thornbridge’s “Longbow” for my beer. It’s a light and flavourful session IPA that I sipped on while soaking in the stunning countryside views right from the pub’s front.

Tunnel Tap

Back on the 218 bus again heading in the Sheffield direction. Tunnel Tap is a cool little Micropub in the Totley area of Sheffield that opened up in 2022. It gets its name from the nearby Totley Tunnel, which is a massive 6,230-yard railway tunnel running beneath Totley Moor. Built by the Midland Railway between 1888 and 1893, the project was managed by engineers Parry and Storey, who had to deal with issues like flooding and illness among the workers. The tunnel was finally finished in 1893, making it the second-longest railway tunnel in the UK at that time. Passenger trains started rolling through in 1894, and it’s still in action today, serving both passenger and freight trains from various rail companies.

Inside a great warm and welcoming place that seems very community focussed with lots of events held every month. The wall upstairs has lots of historic photos and even a historic map on the ceiling. Downstairs another cosy seating area with a view inside the tunnel at the end of the room.

I got a super friendly welcome from the bar staff, and it was awesome chatting with some of the regulars. They’ve got a solid selection of keg beers from local breweries like Thornbridge, Little Mesters, and Triple Point. Plus, you can usually find a cask beer on tap starting Friday. I went with “1893,” a house brew from Little Mesters in Sheffield, made to celebrate the opening of Totley Tunnel. It’s a fantastic pale ale with some awesome flavours that really pop—definitely a tasty, mouth-watering beer!

The Stag’s Head

Another short ride on the 218 bus towards the Sharrow area of Sheffield. The Stag’s Head is a historic pub nestled in the Sharrow area of Sheffield. Its roots go way back to the early days of trade and travel in the region. Originally, it was both an inn and a smithy, serving as an essential stop for drovers, horses, and oxen heading out of Sheffield. It was conveniently located at the top of what we now call Sharrow Lane, providing weary travellers a place to rest and grab a bite after their long journeys.

Initially, the inn was found on Salters Way, an old pack-horse salt road that connected Sheffield to Derbyshire. This route was vital for trade, especially for salt and preserved meats. As time went on and the road was improved under the Turnpike Act of 1760, it became better maintained thanks to tolls collected at various points. The Stag’s Head emerged as a key spot for travellers looking for food and drink. Rev. Alexander MacKenzie was instrumental in its evolution; he tore down the original building and rebuilt it as The Stag’s Head to draw in wealthier locals.

Today, it’s operated by Thornbridge Brewery from Bakewell. The layout has changed from three separate rooms around a central bar to a more open space while still keeping distinct areas. A lovely conservatory leads out to a charming garden. The bar boasts an impressive selection of 8 cask beers, showcasing a variety of Thornbridge brews, including “The Union,” which they crafted using the Burton Union method. There’s also a great range of keg beers available, including lagers, pale ales, and more. I couldn’t find the Burton Union beer at the taproom, so I decided to try this one instead. It’s 6% and really delicious with a hoppy kick, thanks to the Goldings and Northdown hops that bring some awesome flavours to the table.

No 3 – Sharrow

A quick 15-minute stroll takes me to a new Micropub in Sheffield, right on Sharrow Vale Road, No 3-Sharrow. It’s been open for just a few months, having transitioned from a deli, and it’s the latest project from Loxley Brewery. Founded in 2018, Loxley’s story actually began back in October 2015 when local entrepreneur Stephen Wesley bought the Wisewood Inn in Sheffield. He aimed to create a community spot that served up great beer and food. By 2017, the pub was fully up and running, paving the way for the brewery to launch.

Once the pub was thriving, Wesley decided to start brewing beer right there. He converted an old garage under the pub into a modern brewery with top-notch equipment. This setup includes two fermentation vessels, each holding 6 barrels (around 700 litres or 16 casks). The first brew, called Wisewood One, was a pale ale that quickly became a hit. The brewery also operates The Raven Inn in Walkley, which I checked out on a previous visit.

This Micropub is a cosy one-room spot with the bar situated to the left in the centre. I received a warm welcome when I walked in today, and it’s clear that it’s quite popular. The wooden panelling on the walls and the wooden tables and chairs create a really inviting atmosphere. There’s also high seating by the window, perfect for people-watching. Behind the bar, there’s a rotating selection of 3 cask beers from Loxley Brewery, along with a variety of keg beers from guest breweries and their own line-up. I went with “Revill” from Loxley Brewery, and it’s a refreshing, zesty blonde ale that’s super tasty.

The Ecclesall Ale Club

A quick 10-minute stroll down the road takes me to Ecclesall Road, a spot I’ve been to before that boasts a fantastic selection of pubs. Today, I had the chance to pop into two of them, starting with The Ecclesall Ale Club. This place has become quite popular as a brewery-led micropub, and its story is deeply connected to the journey of its founders, James and Robert Eardley. The idea for the Ale Club was born from their shared love of beer, which turned into a thriving business.

James made his way to Sheffield at 18 for university and went on to work in various roles, including at the Sheffield Students’ Union and Exposed Magazine. After Robert retired, the concept for the Ecclesall Ale Club came up during what they called a “drunken conversation,” igniting their dream to create something that showcased their passion for craft beer.

Walking inside, the pub has a charming “Victorian” vibe that sets it apart from others. It feels warm, cosy, and intimate, thanks to the dark leather and wooden furnishings, soft lighting, and quirky décor like old books and knick-knacks. The bar at the far end really draws the eye and serves as the focal point of the pub. The friendly staff behind the bar welcomed me warmly and offered a selection of 5 cask beers and 8 keg beers, plus even more options in the fridges beside the bar. I chose a cask beer from Triple Point Brewing in Sheffield. It’s an awesome hoppy blonde ale that’s super sessionable and refreshing—really delicious!

Craft & Berry

My last stop was just a short walk to Craft & Berry. This new bottle shop is on Ecclesall Road in Sheffield and focuses on craft beers, ales, and artisan gins made right here in Yorkshire. The idea behind Craft & Berry was to create a spot where people can enjoy top-notch drinks while chatting with friendly, knowledgeable staff. They picked Ecclesall Road for its lively vibe and the community of craft beer lovers, and they opened up in November 2019 after transforming an old beauty salon. The name “Craft & Berry” highlights their dedication to craft beer (the “craft”) and gin (the “berry”) which nods to the juniper berries used in gin).

Just like my last visit, I was greeted with a super warm welcome. The place has a cosy and relaxing vibe, with the bar at the end and tables lined up in the middle. Both sides are filled with shelves and fridges stocked with a huge variety of beers and spirits. I really appreciate the colour coding for the Vegan and Gluten-Free beers too. Today, there are six keg lines available, offering a mix of styles and strengths. Definitely worth checking out if you’re in the area. I wrapped up with a sour beer from Pentrich Brewing Co, hailing from Derbyshire. It’s a Raspberry and Blackberry Cheesecake sour that’s incredibly tart, super fruity, and downright delicious. What a fantastic brew!

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