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A Unique Beer Walking Tour Through Leeds’ Heritage
“It’s the Beer Walking” is a unique tour in Leeds led by Simon Jenkins and Nicky Massen. Simon’s a former British Beer Writer of the Year and long-time beer columnist for the Yorkshire Evening Post, while Nicky was a former PR officer for Tetley Brewery.. You enjoy local brews and hear intriguing stories about the city’s history, including its brewing past. Key landmarks include the Black Prince statue, Majestic Cinema, Metropole Hotel, and historical pubs like The Grove Inn and Whitelock’s Ale House, which reflect Leeds’ industrial heritage. The River Aire has been environmentally restored, while the Leeds to Liverpool Canal highlights local commerce. Additionally, the vibrant mural “A Common Thread” and the new sculpture “Hibiscus Rising” honour the city’s culture and resilience.
Check out the tours and book yourself with It’s The Beer Talking
City Square
The Black Prince statue in Leeds is that big bronze guy on a horse in City Square, right outside the train station. It shows Edward the Black Prince, a medieval war hero and son of King Edward III. He never actually came to Leeds, but the statue’s there to represent courage and leadership. It was put up in the early 1900s, paid for by a local industrialist who wanted something impressive to reflect the city’s booming status at the time. The artist, Thomas Brock, made him look super heroic, and now he’s just kind of a cool, dramatic landmark everyone walks past.
In City Square you’ll also find four other statues that give a nod to the city’s history. There’s James Watt, the steam engine pioneer (even though he wasn’t from Leeds), and John Harrison, a local cloth merchant who funded schools and churches back in the 1600s. Dr Walter Hook is there too, he was a Victorian vicar who rebuilt Leeds Minster and set up loads of schools. Then there’s Joseph Priestley, the scientist who helped discover gases like CO₂ and preached nearby. They were all picked to reflect Leeds’ ambition and civic pride as it grew into a major city.
Majestic Cinema
The Majestic in Leeds has had quite a journey, opening in 1922 as a grand old cinema, complete with its own orchestra, ballroom, and even a fancy restaurant. After showing films for decades, it turned into a bingo hall in 1969, then became the Majestyk nightclub in the late 90. It was badly damaged by a fire in 2014. The building’s now home to Channel 4’s northern HQ, still keeping its stunning original frontage and a bit of that old-school charm.
The Metropole Hotel
The Metropole Hotel opened back in 1899 and is famous for its beautiful Victorian terracotta exterior. It’s built on the old site of the 4th White Cloth Hall and got a big makeover in 2005, turning into the stylish Hotel we see today. A cool bit of history is that on 17th October 1919, the hotel was where Leeds City Football Club’s players were auctioned off after the club was kicked out of the league for financial issues. The highest amount paid at the auction was for player Billy McLeod, who was sold to Notts County for £1,250. That auction ended Leeds City but sparked the start of Leeds United who were formed just hours after the auction at Salem Hall (seen later on).
Leeds Central Station
Leeds Central Station was once a major railway hub in Leeds and operated from 1854 until its closure in 1967. It played a key role in connecting the city to the national rail network during the industrial era. The station was bult on a raised viaduct above street level. A notable feature of the station was the wagon hoist, an innovative lifting device used to transfer freight wagons between different track levels or to warehouses. The station was at a high level compared to the surrounding ground, which is why the wagon hoist was needed.
The River Aie
The River Aire in Leeds used to be really badly polluted, especially during the Industrial Revolution when factories dumped waste straight into it. By the mid-1900s, it was so dirty that a big chunk of the river was basically untreated sewage, and fish couldn’t survive. But things have changed a lot in recent years and the river has been hugely cleaned up and allowed developments on the riverside to take place.
The Leeds to Liverpool Canal
The Leeds to Liverpool Canal is a fantastic waterway that links Leeds city centre to Liverpool. It was finished way back in 1816 and helped connect the busy industrial towns during the Industrial Revolution. It’s actually the longest canal in Northern England, stretching over 127 miles! Along the way, it passes through some impressive spots like the Bingley Five Rise Locks. Back in the day, it was important for moving goods like coal and textiles.
A Common Thread
Zoe Power’s mural in Leeds, called “A Common Thread,” is this huge, eye-catching artwork on a building at Tower Works in Holbeck. It celebrates the area’s history with the wool industry, featuring cool designs inspired by old factory machines and wool patterns. The mural also highlights the important role women played in those factories. Zoe’s style is colourful and graphic, and the mural really connects the past with the present by showing two figures linked by a thread which is a symbol of connection and hope.
Tower Works
Tower Works in Holbeck is a fantastic old industrial site and was was founded in 1864 by Thomas Walter Harding. It was built for a printing company and is best known for its three unique towers. Each tower is inspired by famous buildings from Europe — one looks like the Torre del Mangia in Italy, another like the bell tower of St. Mark’s in Venice, and the third is based on the Giralda in Seville, Spain. These towers aren’t just for show; they’re a symbol of the company’s pride and the style of the Victorian era.
Hol Beck
Holbeck is an area just south of Leeds city centre. It gets its name from its old geography. The name comes from Old English and Norse roots. “Hol” meaning hollow or low-lying ground, and “Beck” meaning stream. So basically, Holbeck means something like “stream in a hollow.” It makes sense, too, since the area originally developed around a small stream called Hol Beck. You can still see the Hol Beck today (seen below).
Cross Keys
A a short stroll to Cross Keys in Holbeck, Leeds. This has been serving locals since 1802. Originally built as a watering hole for nearby foundry workers, it became a hub for industrial figures like Matthew Murray. Legend has it that James Watt rented a room here in 1802 to spy on Murray’s workers and steal trade secrets. After falling into disrepair in the 1980s, the pub was lovingly restored by North Bar in 2005, blending historic charm with modern flair.
Inside feels warm and full of character. It’s got those classic wooden beams and cosy corners that make you want to settle in for a while. The old brick walls and vintage photos give it a proper historic feel, but the space is bright and inviting, not dark or gloomy. There’s a mix of comfy benches and wooden tables, perfect for catching up with friends or enjoying a quiet moment. Overall, it’s the kind of place that feels friendly and relaxed, where history and comfort blend effortlessly. A large outdoor area to the rear is great for enjoying the nice weather.
A line up on the bar of 4 cask ales, alongside a range of keg lines with lots of different choices. Further options can be found in the fridges behind the bar. Something for everyone. I decided to go with “Alsopp’s Pale Ale” from Allsopp’s Brewery. A well balanced, full of flavour and tasty pale ale.
Leeds Flax Works
Leeds Flax Works, also known as Temple Works, was a famous Victorian flax mill built in the 1800s with a striking Egyptian Revival design inspired by the Temple of Horus. One of its coolest features was the grass-covered roof, which helped keep the flax inside moist and flexible. To maintain the grass, they actually grazed real sheep on the roof! Since sheep couldn’t climb stairs, a hydraulic lift was used to get them up there. This unusual sight became a local curiosity, but the practice stopped after a sheep accidentally fell through a skylight. The building still stands as a unique piece of Leeds’ industrial past. It is set to become the site of the British Library North. The UK government has committed £10 million to transform this historic Grade I-listed building into a new cultural hub.
The Grove Inn
Onto The Grove Inn next. This has been around since the 1830s and is one of the city’s oldest pubs. It started by serving local mill and canal workers and soon became a popular meeting spot. In 1928–29, it was re-modelled, giving the building much of the layout and character it still has today. In the 1960s, it became known for folk music, with live sessions that still happen now. Over the years, it’s drawn in students, musicians, and locals alike. Despite nearby redevelopment, The Grove has stood firm, keeping its place as a small but important part of Leeds’ history.
Inside it’s cosy, relaxed, and full of charm. There are wood-panelled rooms, comfy corners, open fires in winter, and loads of music posters and photos on the walls. It feels like a proper old pub, the kind that’s been lived in and loved for years. There’s a small concert room which was an interwar addition where folk and acoustic gigs take place, a real hidden gem for live music. This retains some original perimeter seating. The bar’s small but has everything you need, and the whole place has a friendly, down-to-earth vibe. Outside a large beer garden with part of it covered.
Drinks wise a great line up of 8 cask ales ranging in styles and lots of local breweries to choose from. Here I opted to go with “IPA” from Pennine Brewing Co. A crisp, golden and very easy drinking pale ale.
Leeds Water Taxi
En route to our next calling point we passed the “Leeds Water Taxi”. The Leeds Water Taxi launched in 2014 with two bright yellow boats, Twee and Drie, brought over from Amsterdam. They run between Leeds Dock and Granary Wharf along the River Aire, a stretch that was once a busy industrial waterway during Leeds’ textile and trading boom. Today, that same route offers a scenic, laid-back way to get around the city. It’s become a popular ride, with thousands using it every year.
Hibiscus Rising
Hibiscus Rising is a big, colourful sculpture in Aire Park, which was created by artist Yinka Shonibare and unveiled in late 2023. It’s a 9.5-metre tall hibiscus flower covered in vibrant patterns inspired by African batik fabrics. The sculpture honours David Oluwale, a British-Nigerian man who faced terrible treatment from the police and sadly died in 1969. It’s both beautiful and meaningful — a real symbol of hope and resilience in the city.
Salem Chapel
Salem Chapel, is a historic building that dates back to 1791. Originally built as a chapel for Presbyterians and Independents, it’s actually the oldest surviving non-conformist chapel in Leeds city centre. The building has got a beautiful curved front added in 1906, giving it a unique look. Interestingly, Salem Hall played a big part in the founding of Leeds United Football Club back in 1919, when a meeting was held there to create the new team after Leeds City F.C. was disbanded. It stopped being used as a chapel in 2001, but then it was restored and transformed into a vibrant space with offices, a bar, event spaces, and a glass-floored auditorium. Today, it’s a lively spot hosting all sorts of events and even has a blue plaque to celebrate its importance in Leeds history.
The Tetley Pub
Another short walk brings me to The Tetley Pub in Leeds. This place has had quite a journey. Founded in 1822 by Joshua Tetley, it grew to become one of Britain’s most famous breweries, known especially for its cask ales and iconic branding. The brewery’s striking Art Deco headquarters, built in 1931, became a symbol of Leeds’ rich industrial and brewing heritage. Although brewing stopped in 2011 and much of the original site was demolished, the historic building was preserved and repurposed as a contemporary art gallery in 2013, celebrating Leeds’ creative spirit. That chapter closed in late 2023, and in April 2024, Kirkstall Brewery took over the space, bringing it back to its brewing roots.
It has been transformed into a vibrant pub that celebrates both its rich brewing heritage and the local community. Upon entering, you’re greeted by a warm, inviting atmosphere where original Art Deco features blend seamlessly with contemporary touches. The walls are adorned with an impressive collection of brewing memorabilia, showcasing the city’s beer culture. Comfortable seating areas, including cosy leather Chesterfields and antique pub tables, provide spaces for both relaxation and socialising. The venue also boasts a spacious outdoor beer garden, perfect for enjoying a pint on sunny days.
Drinks wise a choice of 6 cask ales, a great range of keg beers and lots of choice of cans and bottles behind the bar. I had to go for “Tetley’s English Ale” in here. Smooth, easy drinking and full of flavour.
Leeds Bridge
The bridge Louis Le Prince filmed in his famous 1888 short Traffic Crossing Leeds Bridge is simply called Leeds Bridge. It’s a historic cast-iron bridge over the River Aire, built in 1870, and was a busy spot back in the day with horse-drawn carriages and pedestrians crossing. Le Prince captured this everyday hustle from a window in a nearby building, giving us one of the earliest glimpses of urban life on film.
CLICK HERE to view the film.
In 2022, another blue plaque was installed on Leeds Bridge to honor David Oluwale.
Briggate
Briggate in Leeds is one of the oldest streets in the city, dating back to around 1207 when the town was laid out with strips of land called burgage plots (each about 49 feet wide)running off the main street. These plots were given to merchants and tradesmen and shaped how the street developed, with narrow yards and courts behind the main buildings. Over the centuries, Briggate became a busy commercial hub with markets, fairs, and lots of shops and pubs. Today, Briggate is a lively, pedestrian-friendly shopping street full of history, with its Victorian arcades and old buildings adding to its charm.
Whitelock’s Ale House
Next up is Whitelock’s Ale House. This is hidden down Turk’s Head Yard off Briggate, dates back to 1715 when it opened as The Turk’s Head. It was taken over by the Whitelock family in 1867, with John Lupton Whitelock expanding and rebranding it. His son William Henry Whitelock modernised the pub in 1895, installing electric lights and an opulent Victorian interior that still survives—think copper bar tops, etched mirrors, and tiled floors. By the early 20th century, it had become a hangout for Leeds’ bohemian crowd, including writers and artists. It’s now a Grade II listed building and one of the city’s most cherished pubs.
Inside feels like stepping back in time. The narrow space is packed with character—gleaming copper bar tops, dark wood panelling, stained glass, and original tiled floors. Antique mirrors line the walls, catching the warm glow from old-fashioned light fittings, and cosy booths run along one side, offering a bit of privacy in the bustle. It’s a place where you can settle in for hours, surrounded by a mix of Victorian elegance and old pub charm. Despite its age, it feels lively and welcoming, with a real sense of history layered into every detail. A true Leeds classic.
A fantastic line up of 10 cask ales to choose from on the bar, alongside a selection of keg options ranging in style.
The Turk’s Head
Next door is The Turk’s Head Leeds. This has roots stretching back to the 18th century, originally named after a traditional inn that once stood nearby. Located in Turk’s Head Yard, just off Briggate, the space became part of Whitelock’s Ale House over time, with the two venues closely linked. The yard itself dates to the early 1700s and was once filled with workshops and small businesses. In 2015, the Turk’s Head name was revived for a separate bar space, honouring the area’s long pub history. Though modernised, the name and location reflect a deep connection to Leeds’ evolving social and drinking heritage.
Inside has a cosy, stylish feel with a mix of old charm and modern touches. The space is compact but thoughtfully designed, with deep green tiles, exposed brick, and warm lighting that gives it a relaxed, intimate vibe. There’s a mix of bar stools and small tables, perfect for catching up with friends or settling in for a quiet moment. It’s quieter than its neighbour Whitelock’s, offering a more laid-back atmosphere. The décor nods to its history without feeling dated, and the overall feel is cool, comfortable, and just a little bit hidden away.
Drinks wise they offer 2 cask beers alongside 12 keg lines showcasing a wide variety of styles and strengths. Lots of other options including cans, bottles and sharing bottles to choose from.
Micropub Adventures 