08/11/23 – Edinburgh – Micropub Adventures

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A trip out from Newcastle to Edinburgh. Well known for its literary heritage, cobbled streets and stunning architecture amongst other things. Started here with Vault City’s “Wee Vault”, before heading to Ryrie’s, Thomson’s Bar, Innis & Gunn, The Hanging Bat, Cold Town House, Jolly Judge and Halfway House. A selection of brewery pubs and ones with stunning insides and really interesting and unique.

Wee Vault

My first call of the day was to the “Wee Vault”. the first bar opened by Vault City Brewery which started in 2018 brewing Modern Sour Beers. A small narrow bar which doesn’t hold many people. A really unusual shaped bar and size.

24 keg taps on in here, most of them being their own sour beers. Tried a few different ones in here, starting with “Wee Vault Wagon”, a sour based on a Wagon Wheel chocolate bar, followed by “Grape Soda Session Sour”, “Vault Dweller”, “Raspberry White Chocolate Swiss Roll” and “Lemon Ice Tea Table Sour”.

Ryrie’s

A short walk brings me to my second calling point “Ryrie’s”. This is a classic Scottish bar located next to Haymarket Train Station. This pub occupies 2 buildings and is listed. The wooden frontage was redesigned by Robert MacFarlane Cameron in 1906 for Messrs Ryrie and Company, whisky merchants. A great long wooden bar upon entering, and glass windows showing products that are sold.

There are even working water taps on the bar that were replaced in the 1980s.

A choice of 6 cask ales on the bar today along with a number of keg options. I went with “Banyan” from Orkney based Swannay Brewery. A tasty and easy drinking Citra, Mosaic and Somcoe hopped pale ale.

Thomson’s Bar

A short walk heading back towards the main city brings me to my next calling point “Thomson’s Bar”. A beautiful one roomed pub decorated in the style of Glasgow architect Alexander ‘Greek’ Thomson. Scenes from Greek Mythology appear on the wooden panels behind the bar. The seating area is full of mirrors and adverts and signs from long forgotten breweries.

A selection of 4 cask ales on here with the pub being a member of the Oakham Ales Oakademy. I went with “Island Life” from Stomness, Orkney based Orkney Brewery. A delicious citrus golden ale.

Innis & Gunn

Another short walk towards the city centre brings me to 2 pubs near each other, the first being “Innis & Gunn”. The brewery itself was started in 2003 in Edinburgh by Dougal Gunn Sharp, the master brewer. This was their first tap room which opened in 2015, selling a wide range of their own beers alongside guests. A large room on entering with the bar to the left.

A huge variety of 24 keg taps featuring their own “Innis & Gunn” beers, alongside a large selection of guest beers with a large range of styles and flavours. I went with another Vault City beer here. “Cherry Limeade”, the name says it all, a sour and tart Cherry and Lime sour.

The Hanging Bat

A few doors down brings me to “The Hanging Bat”. A bar spread over three levels and well known for its selection of beers. Lots of quirky features, furniture and artwork are spread all over this interesting and unique bar. Even the cask handpulls are shaped as bats. Also houses an in house brewery.

No cask beer on today due to a tap takeover, but 17 lines of keg beers to choose from in a large selection of styles. I went with a Holy Goat beer “Riddle of Doom”, described as a Bourbon Barrel Aged Flanders Red with Scottish Raspberries. A really tasty and delicious beers of which you could taste all the amazing flavours.

Cold Town House

Another short walk to the Grassmarket area brings me to my next calling point “Cold Town House”, this opened in early 2019 and is specialises in Craft Beer, Pizza and Prosecco. A number of beers sold here are brewed on the premises, with others brewed at the Dunedin Street Brewery. Set over 3 levels with a bar on each level, the top being open, with heaters and great views overlooking Edinburgh Castle. Even has cable cars with tables inside to sit in.

A great choice of beers in different styles, a number served direct from large tanks behind the bar. I went with “Freakin Peach Shake”, a tart and fruity peach and marshmallow sour.

The Jolly Judge

This next pub is located just off the Royal Mile down a narrow side street. A really interesting bar down a set of steps, with outdoor seating on the street level (although a bit cold today). Met up with Jenny and Kenny – owners of the “Real Ale Finder App”, in here for a catch up and a few drinks.

A line up of 4 cask beers alongside a number of real ciders and keg beers. Started with “Wipeout” from Highlands based Cromarty Brewing Co, a wheat IPA, followed by “Braw” from Dalkeith based Cross Borders Brewing Company and “Capital Porter” from Edinburgh based Barney’s Beer.

Halfway House

My last call before heading back to Edinburgh Waverley for the train back to Newcastle is to “Halfway House”. a really cosy bar decorated in railway memorabilia. A small 2 roomed pub located down a alley off Royal Mile. Pies served from behind the bar. A couple of outdoor seats for the warmer weather.

A choice of 4 cask beers on the bar today, I went with “Solar-Powered IPA” from Loanhead based Stewart Brewing. A really easy drinking and light IPA. A minutes walk after this brings me straight into Edinburgh Waverley station.

08/11/23 – Edinburgh