03/10/24-04/10/24 – Dublin

If you enjoy reading please consider “buying me a pint”, this will help to cover my hosting and image hosting and help to ensure further trips can go ahead!
BUY ME A PINT


The Ultimate Dublin Pub Crawl: History, Beer, and Atmosphere

Upon arriving in Dublin, I explored numerous pubs, starting with the iconic Temple Bar, known for its live Irish music and excellent Guinness. I also visited J.R Mahon’s, a historic venue with an extensive beer selection, including in-house brews. Tapped Late Bar impressed with its modern design and diverse beers. Each pub showcased unique features, like traditional décor at The Duke and contemporary aesthetics at Bar Rua. My journey featured various beers, from flavourful ales to refreshing IPAs, culminating at The Oval Bar, an old pub with rich historical ties. Each stop highlighted Dublin’s vibrant drinking culture and rich pub heritage.

Temple Bar

Upon my arrival in Dublin, my first destination was The Temple Bar Pub. This area, known as Dublin’s Cultural Quarter, shares its name with one of the city’s most iconic pubs. Established in 1840, the pub has a rich history, having received its first license that year. Today, it remains one of Dublin’s most celebrated establishments, famous for its live Irish music throughout the day, its reputation for serving the finest Guinness in the city, and its delectable oysters.

While drinks here may be slightly more expensive, the experience is undoubtedly worth the cost. The pub is divided into several distinct rooms and bars, offering a plethora of intriguing sights at every turn, including head models of Ireland’s deities, the Guinness Mask, and stunning artwork that decorates the walls. The musical offerings range from traditional Irish tunes to popular favourites, contributing to an extraordinary atmosphere.

CLICK HERE to listen to a couple of the acts I saw during my visit!

I began with the “Maltings Irish Ale” produced by Sullivan’s Brewing Company, which is located in Kilkenny and has been in operation since 1702. This particular Red Ale is both flavorful and enjoyable. Following that, I opted for “Smithwick’s Pale Ale,” which is brewed by Guinness in Dublin. This pale ale is notably refreshing and easy to drink.

J.R Mahon’s

My second destination was a brief stroll to J.R Mahon’s, a venue with a rich history that traces back to the early 1800s. Established in 1825 as a Spirit Dealer and Fish Factor, it underwent expansion in the 1840s, transforming into the “Corn Exchange Hotel & Tavern.”

Currently, it is characterized as “A Haven of Heritage, Hospitality and Character,” featuring four unique bars spread across four floors, each showcasing its own distinct ambiance and remarkable historical elements. Upon entering the pub, patrons are welcomed by an impressive collection of various historical artifacts.

The establishment offers an extensive selection of beers, representing a variety of styles and breweries, including several crafted at their own brewery, “Hopkins & Hopkins.” In late 2021, they launched their brewery in Smithfield, commencing production in 2022, with a range of lagers, ales, and stouts available in keg, cask, and bottle formats. It was a pleasure to find a cask ale available during my visit.

The initial beverage I chose was the cask beer available at the bar, named “Sitric,” produced by the in-house Hopkins & Hopkins Brewery. This beer is both flavourful and well-hopped, featuring a blend of Columbus, Comet, Olicana, Mosaic, and Topaz hops. Subsequently, I opted for “J.R Mahin’s Pale Ale,” which is a delightful dry-hopped pale ale.

Tapped Late Bar

Next, I turned my attention to Tapped Late Bar. This establishment is relatively new, having opened its doors in September 2022. It boasts entrances on both Grafton Street and Nassau Street, distinguishing it as the only bar in the vicinity with access to both thoroughfares.

The interior was crafted by Third Mind Design, an Irish design agency known for its modern industrial aesthetic. The layout features vibrant splashes of colour, predominantly in Red, Turquoise, and Yellow, resulting in a distinctive and eye-catching design. The bar is spread across two levels, offering inviting seating areas and a small outdoor space at the rear.

The bar presents an impressive selection of over 50 beers, available both on tap and in cans or bottles, ensuring that patrons have an abundance of options to choose from. My selection was “Afterglow,” a hazy IPA produced by Galway Bay Brewery, located in County Galway. This exceptional brew is rich in flavour and remarkably enjoyable.

The Duke

A brief stroll leads me to The Duke, situated on Duke Street and named in honour of the second Duke of Grafton. Established in 1822, it has a history spanning over two centuries. The establishment underwent a Victorian renovation in 1886, which contributes to its status as one of Dublin’s authentic Victorian pubs, with its Victorian façade still preserved today.

The interior exudes a classic ambiance, spread across two levels, featuring dark wooden tables, fixtures, and flooring, complemented by exquisite stained glass doors at the entrance.

The bar boasts an extensive selection of keg beers, including offerings from Five Lamps Brewery, Smithwicks, and Franciscan Well. I chose “Pale Ale” from The 5 Lamps Brewery, which is located in Dublin and commenced its brewing operations in 2012. This pale ale is characterized by its light, flavourful, and refreshing qualities.

Bar Rua

A brief stroll leads me to Bar Rua, which translates to “Red Bar” in Gaeilge (Irish Gaelic). This establishment is characterized as a contemporary interpretation of a traditional Irish pub, celebrating all aspects of Irish culture and drawing inspiration from a fondness for red-haired individuals, featuring a wall adorned with photographs of redheads.

The venue is spread across two levels, with the ground floor offering tiered seating arrangements and two bars, while additional seating is available on the upper floor. The charming outdoor beer garden at the front enhances its appeal.

Owned by Galway Bay Brewery, founded in 2009, Bar Rua proudly presents an impressive selection of its own beers on tap, complemented by a wide array of guest beers available for patrons. I selected “Felina” from Galway Bay Brewery, a lively and tangy sour beer infused with an abundance of mango, papaya, and passion fruit. Additionally, I chose “BRÚ IPA” from BRÚ Brewery, located in Leinster. This exceptional IPA delivers a delightful taste experience, utilizing Strata, Centennial, and Cascade hops.

Peter’s Pub

The final stop before checking into the hotel was a brief stroll to Peter’s Pub. This establishment has its origins in the 1700s but has been known as Peter’s Pub for approximately the last 50 years. It is constructed from two late 18th-century townhouses that have been joined together, a detail evident in the front photograph showcasing the distinct colours of each building.

Upon entry, one is greeted by a warm and inviting atmosphere reminiscent of a personal living room. The staff behind the bar extend a genuinely friendly welcome and provide an overview of the various beers on offer, including selections from Wicklow Brewery, Hope Beer, and O’Hara’s. During the visit, a delightful Irish cheeseboard was enjoyed, featuring an array of exquisite cheeses.

My selected beer was “Passifyoucan” from Hope Beer, a brewery located in Kilbarrack, Dublin. This pale ale is characterized by its delightful maltiness, fruity notes, and hoppy finish, making it a highly enjoyable choice.

Darkey Kelly’s

Following my ascent to the top of the Skyview Tower (CLICK HERE for some photos from the top), where I was treated to breathtaking views of Dublin, I made my way to Darkey Kelly’s. This establishment was formerly known as the “Maiden Tower,” managed by Madam Darkey Kelly in the 18th century as a brothel. In 1746, she was executed publicly for the suspected murder of her own child.

Adjacent to Darkey Kelly’s is the “Copper Alley” hotel, through which one of Dublin’s oldest streets passes, still visible from the reception area.

The interior of the establishment today embodies the legend of Darkey Kelly, exuding a dark and enigmatic atmosphere with its softly lit rooms, charming historic décor, and an unusual gothic ambience.

The bar offers an impressive selection of keg beers, and I must commend the excellent table service and promptness I experienced. During my visit, I enjoyed a delightful Irish Beef Stew. My selection of beer was the “Big Bangin’ IPA” produced by Rye River Brewing Company, located in Celbridge, County Kildare. This West Coast style IPA is characterized by its heavy hopping, which imparts a range of delightful flavours.

The Oak

The subsequent call was made to The Oak, situated at the intersection of Dame Street and Crane Lane. Historically, Crane Lane was known as the site of Ireland’s first synagogue. The establishment was renamed “The Oak” in 1946 following a renovation.

Within, the exquisite oak-panelled walls are crafted from wood reclaimed from the RMS Mauretania, a troopship utilized during World War I. Launched in 1906, this vessel was recognized as the largest and fastest ship in the world at that time. Additionally, one can admire the impressive gilded plasterwork adorning the ceiling.

The bar offers an extensive selection of keg beers, showcasing a variety of styles and breweries. I chose “Althea” from Galway Bay Brewery. It is a highly refreshing and easily drinkable session IPA.

Fitzsimons Temple Bar

Fitzsimons Temple Bar is the next destination, recognized as one of the premier party venues in Dublin City, encompassing five floors and four bars, including an impressive Roof Garden Bar. The exterior of the establishment is visually striking and captures attention effectively.

Upon entering, one is greeted by a lively atmosphere enhanced by a live singer. Prominently displayed above the bar is a sign that reads “Céad Mile Fáilte,” a traditional Irish expression meaning “a hundred thousand welcomes,” which has been cherished for generations. The bar boasts an excellent selection of keg beers, showcasing a variety of offerings from numerous breweries. I selected “Cute Hoor,” a pale ale from Heineken Ireland that is notably light and refreshing.

Dockers

A short distance from the centre leads me to Dockers Bar, situated on Sir John Rogerson’s Quay. The establishment that currently operates as a pub was originally part of a collection of late Georgian merchant houses, later repurposed as the Catholic Seamen’s Institute. The present iteration of “The Dockers” opened its doors in October 2021; however, a previous pub by the same name existed on this site, which had ties to the band U2, who frequented the establishment during their recording sessions in the vicinity and accepted an award via video from within the pub.

The pub derives its name from the professions of its patrons and their ancestors. The interior features charming stone walls and a traditional aesthetic, adorned with numerous images depicting dock life. The bar boasts an extensive selection of keg beers. Today, I selected “Ambush,” a pale ale produced by Trouble Brewing in County Kildare. This beer is characterized by its hazy appearance, juicy flavour profile, and refreshing qualities, making it a truly enjoyable choice.

Teach Tabhairne Ag Teacht

Next, I proceeded to Wexford Street, situated in the Portobello district of Dublin. The first pub I visited in this area was named Teach Tabhairne Ag Teacht. Previously known as “Against the Grain,” this establishment has recently changed ownership and name, along with a new selection of beers. The name “Teach Tabhairne Ag Teacht” translates to “Another Pub Coming”, which the owner aims to transform the new pub into a vibrant addition to the city’s bar scene.

Upon my arrival today, I was greeted with a wonderfully warm welcome and were impressed by the delightful blend of traditional and contemporary décor within the pub. The bar featured an excellent variety of keg beers for my selection. I chose to select “Galway Girl” from Galway Hooker Brewery, located in Oranmore, County Galway. It is a beer characterized by its robust hop flavour and delightful taste.

The Jar

I made my way along the road to The Jar, which was formerly known as “Solas Bar” before its acquisition, renovation, and subsequent rebranding. This evening, the establishment presented a sophisticated, inviting atmosphere as it hosted an event featuring Franciscan Well Brewery from Cork, which had crafted a new Pilsner in partnership with the Prague-based brewery Staropramen. The beer is named “The Docklands.”

In addition to this new offering, there was an excellent selection of beers from Franciscan Well Brewery available at the bar, complemented by a few other guest options. As well as trying the new Pilsner I went with “Well Hazy” from Franciscan Well Brewery. Described as “It’s Well Hazy, It’s Well Nice”, a pretty accurate description, a great beer.

Urban Brewing

My second day commenced at the historic Custom House Quay, where I visited Urban Brewing. This establishment is situated in the former “Stack A,” originally constructed as a warehouse for the storage of valuable goods, featuring remarkable vaults beneath that were designed for the preservation of tea, tobacco, and liquor.

Upon my arrival, I was greeted by an impressive bar that offers a diverse selection of beers, including several that are brewed on-site. I was given a tour of the brewery, located on an upper mezzanine level, from which the beer is pumped down into the vaults for fermentation. The downstairs vaults are truly magnificent, comprising two distinct fermentation rooms and various seating arrangements for diners and special events, all spread across three vaults.

Additionally, there is a charming outdoor seating and dining area at the front, making it a destination not to be overlooked, especially for those interested in exploring the vaults.

I sampled a variety of their beers, including the “Earl Grey IPA,” an enjoyable American IPA infused with Earl Grey tea, the “Crystal Weiss,” a traditional German ale composed of 30% wheat, the “Chocolate & Peanut Stout,” their latest offering that is rich in flavour, and concluded with the “Oyster Stout,” a delightful and flavourful stout.

The Brew Dock

A brief stroll along the road leading to Connelly Station, adjacent to the Busaras Tram stop, brings one to The Brew Dock. This establishment, previously known as Kate’s Cottage, is now operated by Galway Bay Brewery and is renowned for its exceptional craft beer selection.

The interior features both downstairs and upstairs seating areas, characterized by a traditional aesthetic that includes wooden floors and tables. The décor is enhanced by an array of beer memorabilia, shipping signs, and other captivating items that contribute to the pub’s inviting atmosphere.

The bar boasts an extensive selection of keg beers, featuring several offerings from their own Galway Bay Brewery, providing patrons with a variety of choices. My chosen beer was “Full Sail,” produced by Galway Bay Brewery. This robust American Pale Ale features a blend of Columbus, El Dorado, and Cascade hops, which are incorporated during the brewing process and also used for dry hopping. It is a remarkably flavourful and hoppy beer.

The Patriots Inn

My subsequent engagement for the day was a guided tour of Kilmainham Gaol, a remarkable prison renowned for its appearances in various films, including Paddington 2, and its extensive historical significance. CLICK HERE for some photos.

Before I visited the Patriots Inn, situated on hallowed ground adjacent to the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, Bully’s Acre cemetery, and Kilmainham Gaol, I took a moment to appreciate its storied past. Established in 1793 by John Ward Senior, the pub boasts a sign proclaiming it to be “closer to the pulse of Irish history than any other contemporary pub.”

The interior features a traditional pub ambience, offering a menu of food alongside a pleasant outdoor seating area. A diverse selection of keg beers are available at the bar. I selected the “Coastal IPA” produced by the Rye River Brewing Company located in County Kildare. This contemporary IPA features delightful citrus and grapefruit notes, complemented by an array of tropical flavours.

Rascals Brewing Co

After my visit to Kilmainham Gaol, I took a brief 20-minute walk to an industrial estate located in Inchicore, Dublin, where Rascals Brewing Co. is situated.

Established in 2014, the brewery was inspired by the couple’s experiences within New Zealand’s craft beer culture. The facility features a 35HL brewhouse and includes a restaurant, taproom, off-license, and additional event spaces. Upon entering, one is greeted by a bright, modern, and vibrant atmosphere, complemented by an excellent outdoor area.

A striking wall of cans serves as a notable feature within the taproom, where delicious pizzas are also available. The bar boasts an impressive selection of their beers, allowing patrons to view the brewery while enjoying some of their pilot brews.

I began by trying their “Pink Lemonade Sour,” a beer that is both tart and refreshing, bursting with flavour. Following that, I proceeded to sample a tasting tray.
1 – Pilot #118 Scarlet Red Ale (Irish Red Ale)
2 – Wunderbar IPA (American IPA)
3 – Rock Shandy Pale Ale (Hazy Pale Ale) – Orange flavoured
4 – Medium Cider (Mac Ivors Cider Company)

Roe & Co

Next, I headed back towards Dublin City Centre to visit Roe & Co. and their establishment, “The Powerhouse.”

Roe & Co was originally established in 1757 and operated until 1926, when the distillery ceased production due to a trade conflict with Britain following Irish Independence. In 2017, it was revitalized and is now located in the historic former Guinness Power Station, an exceptional venue.

Inside “The Powerhouse,” visitors will find a shop, distillery, and bar that offers an extensive selection of whiskeys and whiskey cocktails, as well as a delightful pint of Guinness. The original power station structure is visible above and at the rear of the establishment.

The Glimmer Man

Next, I headed to The Glimmer Man, a pub named after the gas inspectors who monitored the streets during the emergency period of the 1940s. During the European war, Ireland faced limitations on its coal gas resources, necessitating imports. To conserve gas, the government imposed restrictions on its usage to specific hours. The pub’s name reflects the notion that a “glimmer” of gas remained in the pipes after the supply was halted.

The establishment has a history dating back to 1814, with the current structure erected in the 1880s and a larger lounge added in 1992. This venue is truly exceptional! Upon entry, patrons are immediately drawn in by the walls, floors, and ceilings embellished with an eclectic assortment of items, including bicycles, signs, a collection of walking sticks, paintings, books, ornaments, and even a bed! The upstairs area exudes a cosy living room ambience, adorned with artwork, while outside features a charming beer garden and a food truck offering Vietnamese cuisine.

A diverse selection of keg beers was available at the bar, and notably, this was the only establishment that operated on a “Cash Only” basis during my visit to Dublin. I selected “Tiny,” a pale ale from Larkin’s Brewing Co., located in County Wicklow. This beer is part of their core range and is characterized by its robust flavour profile, making it both enjoyable and easy to drink.

Bonobo

A brief stroll leads me to Bonobo, Smithfield, a stylish pub and restaurant that was previously known as “The Richmond.” The interior is softly illuminated, enhancing the pub’s ambience, featuring tiered seating arrangements and beautiful wooden floors that exude an industrial charm. Outside, there is an impressive, spacious beer garden, partially covered, along with a corner dedicated to Neapolitan-style pizza.

The bar boasts an extensive selection of keg beers, including a significant array of craft options from various renowned breweries. Additionally, the fridges behind the bar are stocked with a wide assortment of cans and bottles, offering a diverse range of styles and strengths. I chose to select “Snublejuice,” a product from the Danish brewery To Øl. According to their description, “snuble” translates to “stumble,” while “Juice” refers to a “highly aromatic and irresistible refreshing liquid.” This delightful IPA is brewed with El Dorado, Mosaic, and Simcoe hops.

Underdog

The next establishment to visit is UnderDog Dublin . This venue first opened its doors in 2017 in the basement of Brogan’s on Dame Street, featuring 18 taps and a beer engine. During the COVID-19 pandemic, it operated solely as a takeaway service. Following the pandemic, it did not resume operations at its original site, but instead reopened in November 2022 at a new location. After exploring numerous pubs throughout Dublin, I would confidently assert that this is the city’s only genuine “Craft Beer Pub.”

Inside, patrons will find a bar on the left with 20 craft beer lines that showcase a wide variety of styles, strengths, and breweries. An extensive selection of cans and bottles is also available behind the bar. The interior offers ample seating, including an additional room at the rear, creating a cosy, relaxing, and welcoming atmosphere, complemented by outdoor seating at the front. I enjoyed an exceptional sour beer from HORIZONT Brewing, a Hungarian brewery. It presented remarkable flavours of blackcurrant and redcurrant, delivering a distinctly fruity and intensely sour experience.

The Black Sheep

A brief walk of a few minutes leads me to my next stop, The Black Sheep, which is operated by Galway Bay Brewery.

The brewery characterizes it as a “Wateringhole for the rich and famous, the ordinary Joe soap, the hard working, the work seeking, for beer lovers and food lovers alike, the people’s pub” This charming establishment features two spacious rooms with ample indoor seating, complemented by outdoor seating at the front. Additionally, the enticing aroma of food suggests it is quite popular among patrons.

The bar boasts an impressive selection of 24 keg lines and one cask line, marking the second cask beer I have encountered in Dublin during my stay. There is a wide variety of styles, breweries, and strengths available, providing numerous options. I chose the cask beer “Uncle Columb’s” from the West Kerry Brewery, also referred to as Beoir Chorca Dhuibhne, located in County Kerry. This particular style is quite rare, presenting a delightful, rich, and flavourful dark mild. It was truly a pleasurable experience.

Pipers Corner

My next destination involves a brief stroll to Pipers Corner, a quintessential Irish pub that opened in July 2017. This establishment occupies the former site of Sean O’Casey’s Bar. Owner Seán Potts established the pub in response to the increasing commercialization of the Temple Bar area, aiming to create a venue where traditional Irish musicians could flourish.

From June to August, Pipers Corner hosts a program titled Stories & Songs of Dublin’s Writers, which showcases narratives and melodies inspired by the lives and works of Dublin’s renowned literary figures. The interior exudes a warm and inviting ambience, complemented by an extensive selection of beverages. Additionally, there is a small, well-heated smoking area located upstairs. The exterior features striking artwork depicting an Irish musician, enhancing the pub’s charm. I selected the “IPA” from The 5 Lamps Dublin Brewery. It is a flavourful, robust, and enjoyable red ale.

The Oval Bar

My final destination during the trip was The Oval Bar, a pub steeped in history that witnessed the events of the 1916 Rising and the 1922 Civil War. Established in the summer of 1822, it suffered significant damage during both conflicts but has since been restored. This establishment is recognized as one of the oldest pubs in Dublin and holds the distinction of being the only licensed venue in the Abbey Street area to have continuously operated from its original location since receiving its first license.

The interior boasts a stunning Victorian-inspired décor that enhances the pub’s character, with remarkable ceilings that captivate visitors. The layout includes a downstairs area for drinking and an upstairs dining section offering traditional dishes such as Irish Stew, Fish & Chips, and Chicken Curry.

The bar features an impressive selection of beers, including Bill Chawke’s Legacy Lager, which was crafted to commemorate the 60th anniversary of Bill Chawke’s Pub in Adare, celebrating the legacy of the Irish pub industry that he initiated in 1959. I opted for “Aunty Lena’s” from Dundalk Bay Brewery and Distillery who are based in County Louth, which is a delightful and invigorating American IPA.

1 Comment

  1. Nigel watson's avatar Nigel watson says:

    Great review of Dublin Scott.

    I visit regularly, my grandchildren live there, and you have highlighted new places for me to visit.

    My regular haunts being the Palace Bar in Temple Bar, The Gravediggers (John Kavanaghs) in Glasnevin and The Duke as featured.

    thanks for opening my eyes!

    Nigel, Worthing

    Like

Leave a Comment