2/11/24 – Sheffield “Little Chicago”

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Exploring Sheffield’s ‘Little Chicago’: A Historic Pub Walk

The walk through Sheffield, known as “Little Chicago,” highlights its history of gang violence in the 1920s while exploring iconic pubs. Notable stops include The Crow Inn, a historical meeting spot, Shakespeare’s, a long-standing coaching inn, and Kelham Island Tavern, recognized for real ale. The narrative showcases the evolution of these establishments, from their original functions to their present-day charm. Distinctive art and historical landmarks enhance the stroll, and each pub offers a diverse selection of beers. The journey encapsulates Sheffield’s rich heritage, community spirit, and love for traditional pubs amid a backdrop of turbulent history.

Little Chicago Walk

Today I headed over to Sheffield to meet up with Dave Pickersgill (Sheffield CAMRA) and Chris Fox (Chesterfield CAMRA), alongside Sheffield CAMRA Members Malcolm and Jenny to learn about Sheffield’s past and its nickname “Little Chicago”.

In the 1920s, Sheffield earned the nickname “Little Chicago” due to the intense gang wars happening at the time. This label has stuck around for this part of the city, which saw its fair share of gang-related violence. During our stroll, we checked out The Crow Inn, Shakespeares, and Kelham Island Tavern, then moved on to explore a few more pubs in Sheffield. The clash between the Mooney Gang and the Park Brigade raged on from 1923 to 1925, with all sorts of brutal incidents like slashing with razors, beatings with pokers, and stabbings with bayonets. The rivalry reached a tragic peak in 1925 when William Plommer was violently murdered.

If you fancy doing the walk yourself you can view the booklet online by clicking HERE or can order a hard copy by contacting Dave Pickersgill (pubheritage@sheffield.camra.org.uk)

The Crow

We kicked off our walk at West Bar Roundabout, which is now Sheffield’s first “Dutch Roundabout.” Here, cyclists and pedestrians get the right of way all the time. As we walk, we pass by the old Don Picture Palace, the former Moseley’s Arms pub, and Mayfair Court, famously known as the “mucky man’s mansion”. We also check out the National Museum for the Emergency Services, which used to be the Police and Fire Station (with the Blue side for Police and the Red side for Fire). It is definitely worth stopping by the museum! CLICK HERE to check out some of the exhibits.

Just a quick stroll from here leads us to “The Crow.” This pub first opened its doors back in 1797 as a pub run by Thomas Rawsons Brewery, originally called The Crown Inn or Old Crown. It went through a few name changes over the years, including The Sleep Hotel. After closing in 2010, it was transformed into a hotel, but in November 2018, it was taken over and reopened as “The Crow Inn” in 2019 by the same folks who co-own The Rutland Arms. Located on Scotland Street, this little road used to have 14 pubs, but most of them have disappeared. Fun fact: if you check out the window signs at The Crow Inn, you’ll notice that the “N” is missing from the name Crown.

This pub has a pretty cool backstory. It was first noted during the Chartist protests in the 1840s as a secret spot for meetings. The Chartists were a group in Sheffield pushing for voting rights and a secret ballot. Plus, it’s also where the murder of James Lindley, a sawgrinder, happened.

This pub has a charming and cosy vibe with a classic look. The entrance features a lovely tiled ceramic floor with a crown design, plus some beautiful leaded windows inside. It’s divided into three rooms, all centred around a great bar that offers a warm welcome. You can spot a copy of the 1884 “Sheffield Drinks Map” on the wall, highlighting the many pubs that once thrived in the area. The bar boasts an impressive selection, including four cask ales and eleven keg beers. Today, I went with “Simcoe Harlequin” from RedWillow Brewery, which is located in Macclesfield. It’s a really tasty and hoppy pale ale that has some awesome flavours popping out.

Shakespeare’s

On our way to the second pub, we first stroll by the “Methodist New Connexion Chapel,” which opened its doors back in 1828. There’s also the “Littlewood Memorial Hall,” added in 1897. As we continue down the road, we spot a piece of art called “What a Stinker!” that was put up in 2023. This piece pays tribute to the 84 Gas Destructor Lamps that lit up Sheffield from 1914 to 1935, making it the town with the most in Britain. We’ll even see one of the originals later near The Fat Cat. These lamps worked by burning “town gas” sourced from sewer gases below. George Orwell, who stayed in the area in 1936, noted that “At night the hilliness creates fine effects because you look across from one hillside to the other and see the lamps twinkling like stars.”

We make our way down Furnace Hill, known for the infamous “Furnace Hill Shootout,” where a gang stormed a house, leading to gunfire and a wild brawl involving a stool leg. As we stroll, we reach the “Bower Spring Furnaces,” a 19th-century facility for producing cementation steel, established in 1828 and in operation until 1910. There’s a plaque nearby that shares all the details.

We headed to check out Shakespeare’s pub. Built back in 1821 as a coaching inn, the right side of the pub used to be the entrance for coaches, and now it’s a cosy seating area. For a long time, it was part of S.H. Ward’s before Punch Taverns took over, but it closed down in 2010. Luckily, it reopened in July 2011 after being saved by the folks who own The New Beehive Inn in Bradford, and they did an amazing job restoring it. When you walk in, you can really feel the charm and character of the place. It’s divided into several rooms, each with its own vibe, and some walls are decked out with beer memorabilia. Plus, there’s a great outdoor beer garden in the back that adds to the whole experience.

There’s an awesome selection at the bar with 7 cask lines, 13 keg lines, and a massive variety of bottles and cans to pick from. I had the “Axl Gold” from Metalhead Brewery, which is located in Bedlington. It’s a tasty hoppy golden ale that’s super smooth and goes down really easily.

Kelham Island Tavern

Our final stop on the walk is the Kelham Island Tavern. This place first opened its doors in the 1830s as was originally part of a terrace and was originally called “The Sawmaker,” later changing to “The White Hart.” In 1860, Stones Brewery took it over, and in 1995, it got its current name, “Kelham Island Tavern.” Sadly, it shut down in 1999 but was bought in 2002 and reopened in 2003, focusing on real ale. It’s been recognized as Sheffield and District CAMRA Pub of the Year 17 times and even snagged the CAMRA National Pub of the Year title for two consecutive years, making it the first pub to achieve that!

Today, the pub is cosy and bustling, radiating a classic vibe while still focusing on serving up real ale. It’s divided into two areas: the front room where the bar is located, and a back room that leads out to a stunning beer garden that’s won multiple awards. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy the sunshine with plenty of space to relax.

On the bar today a fantastic range of 12 cask ales, 8 keg beers and a selection of ciders to choose from. I chose “American Five Hop #74” from Blue Bee Brewery in Sheffield. They’ve been mixing it up with different hop combos for each brew in this series. It’s a really tasty American Pale Ale!

The Wellington

Next, we stroll over to The Wellington, and on the way, we spot a sign for “A H Smith & Co,” a brewery from Sheffield that started off around 1828 and got officially registered in November 1900. Tennant Brothers Ltd took it over in 1915, but it shut down by 1917. At its peak, Smith & Co had 49 pubs in Sheffield and 26 more scattered around.

Just across the street is The Wellington, which is only a short stroll from the Shalmesmoor Supertram stop. This pub dates back to 1839 and got a makeover in 1940. It’s changed hands a few times, with owners like Tennants and Whitbread, and became a freehouse in 1993, rebranding as “Cask and Cutler” while launching the “Port Mahon Brewery.” The tiny 1BBL brewery kicked off in the beer garden in November 2000 but shut down when the pub changed ownership at the end of 2006. It made a comeback in August 2008 as “Little Ale Cart Brewing Co,” which moved to Lion Works in Sheffield in 2013, before being sold to Neepsend Brew Co in 2015. They’ve been brewing at Burton Road since 2020, and this pub serves as their tap room.

Inside is a super cosy and traditional three-room pub that really knows its real ale, it’s buzzing with football fans gearing up for the match today. Despite the crowd, the service was impressively fast. The bar boasts six cask ales, three of which are from Neepsend Brew Co, plus three guest options. There’s also a solid selection of keg beers and a variety of cans available for sipping in or taking out. Don’t miss the homemade sandwiches; the potted beef was a standout. I decided to try “Superdelic” from Neepsend Brew Co, a single hopped ale featuring a new hop variety from New Zealand. It had some fantastic red fruit, citrus, and tropical notes that really show through.

SALT

A quick stroll over to the Green Lane development. Green Lane Works kicked off in 1795, founded by Henry Hoole and Thomas Nicholson, focusing on crafting decorative stove grates and fenders out of metal and bronze. Back in 1860, they even constructed a fancy arch to highlight their significance in the town. The business kept going until 2007, eventually shifting to making agricultural tools and parts for farm machinery before shutting down.

SALT is now in this spot, which used to be Stew & Oyster, and it’s connected to Green Lane Works. It’s part of SALT Brewery, based in Saltaire, named after the industrialist who established the village. Inside, you’ll find a sleek, modern bar with plenty of room and a fantastic outdoor seating area out front.

There are three cask ales on tap at the bar, plus a variety of keg beers and ciders. I decided to grab a “White Rat” from Ossett Brewery. It’s a super tasty and hoppy pale ale that I’ve had plenty of times before and always loved.

The Fat Cat

A walk next to The Fat Cat. This pub first opened its doors back in 1850 as “The Kelham Tavern” and switched to “The Alma” in 1856, named after the Battle of the Alma River from the Crimean War, which went down on September 20, 1854, between the allied forces and the Russians. In 1912, it was taken over by William Stones from Sheffield. Fast forward to 1981, the pub was auctioned off and rebranded as “The Fat Cat.”

The corner of the pub features a mural by Matt Cockayne that took three days to complete. This place has seen its share of trouble, having been flooded during the Sheffield floods in both 1864 and 2007, with the water levels marked on the pub’s exterior. Inside, you’ll find a cosy mix of rooms that feel warm and traditional. It’s a fantastic spot for real ale lovers and is known for kickstarting the real ale movement in the Kelham Island area. Outside, there’s a spacious beer garden with various sections, complete with a mural of “The Alma” pub sign on the wall.

There’s an awesome lineup of 9 cask ales at the bar, plus a variety of keg beers and ciders to pick from. I went with “Carousel” from Charnwood Brewery in Loughborough for my beer today. It’s a super tasty citrus pale ale that’s really smooth and easy to enjoy.

Kelham Island Brewery

Kelham Island Brewery kicked off in the pub’s beer garden back in 1990, with their first brew hitting the taps that September. They went on to create some popular brews like Pale Rider, which snagged the 2004 Beer of Britain title, along with Kelham Best and Easy Rider.

In 1999, they upgraded to a custom-built brewery right next to the pub. They kept things rolling until May 2022 when they had to shut down. Luckily, in September 2022, a group that included the founders of Thornbridge Brewery stepped in to preserve the brewery’s legacy and its beers (though not the actual brewery), and now those beers are crafted at Thornbridge Brewery.

If you swing by the brewery, you can still spot an original Gas Lamp outside, just like I mentioned earlier in the blog.

The Millowners Arms

A quick stroll takes us to the Kelham Island Museum. Right at the entrance, you’ll find the “Bessemer Converter.” This invention, patented by Henry Bessemer back in 1856, revolutionized the way iron was turned into steel. British Steel used this converter in Workington until 1974, making it the last one still in operation in the UK.

The Millowners Arms is right on the premises. It opened its doors in 2013 after being transformed from an old storeroom, thanks to a project by the Sheffield Industrial Museums Trust, with some financial help from the River Don Millowners Association. Step inside, and you’ll find a cool 1970s vibe with retro radiators and light fixtures that really give it a classic, old-school atmosphere. There’s even a stunning 17th Century stone fireplace that was salvaged from “The Travellers” pub in Wadsley Bridge. Plus, there’s a spacious beer garden by the River Don, complete with a quirky reclaimed telephone box.

You can find three cask ales on the bar, plus a fantastic selection of keg beers to pick from. I went with “Moonshine” from Abbeydale Brewery in Sheffield. This pale ale has been their mainstay since 1996. It’s a gorgeous, well-balanced brew made with five different hops, and it’s super tasty!

The Harlequin

Next up is The Harlequin pub, which used to be called The Manchester Hotel. Its history dates back to 1845 when the Sheffield, Ashton-under-Lyne and Manchester Railway launched its city terminus, known as Bridgehouses station, located just north of Nursery Street. The Manchester Hotel was built to provide lodging for travellers coming to and from the station. The station shut its doors to passengers in September 1851 and to freight in October 1965. In 1864, the pub suffered significant flood damage and was partially rebuilt, but it eventually closed in the early 2000s. After sitting empty for a few years, it reopened in 2006 under the new name The Harlequin, named after a nearby Wards pub that was torn down. It also served as the taproom for HQ Brew, a small microbrewery run by the pub’s owners. This year, it changed hands, got a makeover, and reopened its doors.

In a spacious open area surrounding the bar, which is set across multiple levels, you’ll find a beautifully refurbished space that feels super warm, cozy, and inviting as soon as you walk in. There’s also a lovely little beer garden out back.

The bar boasts an impressive selection, featuring 7 cask ales, 12 keg lines, a variety of ciders, and a wide range of cans and bottles. My choice of beer today being “Never fight a man with a Perm” from Manchester based Big Trip. A super hoppy, tasty and flavourful beer.

Riverside

After saying goodbye to Dave and Chris at The Harlequin, I took a quick stroll over to Riverside. This pub, run by True North Brew Co, is right by the River Don. As I approached, I couldn’t help but notice the big neon sign that reads, “Don’t Do All the Talking, Let Love Speak Up Itself,” a nod to the song by The Beautiful South. Originally, it was known as “The Brown Cow,” tucked away among some cottages and shops in a spot once called Bridgehouses, named after the wooden bridge that used to connect to Sheffield. That bridge was replaced in 1815 with an iron one, and the area has seen many changes since. Back in the day, there was even a public bathing area next to The Brown Cow, which is now the beer garden. The place was transformed into a residential hotel, and in 1890, S.H. Ward & Co took over, keeping the name “The Brown Cow” until they closed it down in 1994. It’s been called “Riverside” since 1995, and the windows from the Ward era are still there at the front of the pub.

There’s a cool nautical mural on the beer garden wall that looks out over the River Don, created by local street artist “Phlegm” back in 2013. It features a boat packed with Phlegm’s unique characters chasing after a massive squid. If you want to see some better pics, CLICK HERE. The beer garden is pretty spacious, offering both shaded and open spots, plus a terrace with a great view of the river.

As you walk in, you’ll find a couple of rooms, with the bar right there on your left. The vibe is super inviting and cosy, thanks to the low lighting, wooden floors, and dark ceilings. At the bar, you can choose from 5 cask ales, including 2 crafted by the owners, True North Brew Co. My beer of choice today was “Pale Rider” by Kelham Island Brewery, now brewed at Thornbridge Brewery. A hoppy and citrusy pale ale, a really great beer.

Two & Six Micropub

I took a stroll back to where I kicked off my walk earlier today to check out Two & Six Micropub. It opened up at the end of 2023, taking over from theSocial, which used to be a popular hangout spot managed by Yes2Ventures. This place is a charming one-room Micropub that feels way bigger inside than it looks from the outside. They even have an art gallery that you can rent for exhibitions or events. The vibe inside is super warm and cosy, with deep red walls that add to the inviting atmosphere, plus wooden panelling, floors, and furniture. I got a really friendly welcome from behind the bar when I walked in this evening.

There’s an awesome variety of 4 cask ales at the bar, highlighting different styles, plus a few ciders and some keg beers to pick from. I decided to try “Life in Miniature” from Welbeck Abbey Brewery in Worksop. It’s a super tasty, refreshing, and light session pale ale. So good!

Perch Brewhouse

A quick stroll takes me to Perch Brewhouse, which is also the home of Dead Parrot Beer Co, a brewery that kicked off in 2018. They’ve turned an old workshop into a cosy and stylish spot, featuring a blend of wooden floors and chic furniture. Outside, there’s a spacious area, partly covered, perfect for enjoying drinks and meals al fresco. Plus, there’s a classic PacMan machine for some fun nostalgia. And don’t forget to check out the bar top—it’s covered in an awesome collection of beer mats that really stands out!

You can catch a glimpse of the brewery through a door in the bar, meaning the beer miles are zero. The brewing equipment was sourced from a previous project called “The Brewhouse and Henry’s,” which never fully took off as Aardvark Brewery, along with some gear from the “Frog & Parrot Brewhouse.” That place was owned by Whitbread and started brewing in April 1982 but shut down in 2006. They were known for making strong ales. Dead Parrot was the first to brew “Auronis Xui,” named after a long-gone bird-like dinosaur. Fun fact: this pub was the first in the UK to serve Stella Artois straight from the tank without using CO2, giving customers a super fresh beer experience.

Today at the bar, we’ve got an awesome lineup of 10 cask ales, including 4 that are brewed right here in-house. I chose “Lone,” a tasty and easy-drinking pale ale that’s light and refreshing, with a nice kick from Centennial hops.

Fagan’s

The last three visits were super busy, so I didn’t get a ton of photos, but I did my best. The first stop was Fagan’s, one of the oldest pubs in Sheffield, going all the way back to 1790. It used to be called the “Barrel Inn.” The pub got its current name from Joe Fagan, who was the landlord from 1947 to 1966, making him Tetley’s longest-serving licensee. In fact, there have only been three licensees in the last century! Fagan’s is famous for its folk music vibe and often hosts traditional music sessions. When I was there, a bunch of musicians were jamming in the back room.

The place has some awesome historical features like panelling, windows, and bar counters. The pub sign shows Joe Fagan with a Lancaster bomber, honouring his time as a bomber pilot in World War II. This sign was updated in 2008 after the old one from 1985 fell apart. On the side of the pub, there’s a mural by Pete McKee called “The Snog,” which was his first mural and has become a favourite spot for couples and newlyweds to snap photos. Plus, there’s a fantastic large beer garden inspired by Guinness outside.

Today at the bar, they had a selection of four beers, including options from Thornbridge Brewery, Kelham Island Brewery, and Timothy Taylors. I chose to grab an “Easy Rider” from Kelham Island Brewery, even though it’s now made at Thornbridge Brewery. It’s a super drinkable, refreshing, and hoppy ale that I’ve enjoyed many times.

The Grapes

A quick stroll to The Grapes reveals one of the best-preserved pubs built by Sheffield’s Thomas Rawson & Co. You can still spot the initials TR & Co in some of the window glass. Inside, you’ll find some awesome tiled walls. The layout features a tiled corridor that leads to three distinct areas: a snug, a lounge, and a pool room. Outside, there’s a sign for “Flynn’s,” honouring the Flynn family, who have run the pub for over 40 years. This place was once famous for its lively music scene, and it’s where the Arctic Monkeys played when they were just 16 and starting their journey. There’s also a spacious beer garden right next to the pub, plus steps leading down to an even larger garden below.

There are two cask ales on tap, both hailing from South Yorkshire breweries—Abbeydale and Stancill. I decided to try the “Barnsley Bitter” from Stancill Brewery. It’s a deliciously malty English Bitter, bursting with flavour.

Dog & Partridge

My last stop of the night was the Dog & Partridge. This pub has a fascinating history that goes all the way back to 1797 when it was first noted as a public house, making it one of the oldest pubs still running in Sheffield. Inside, there are some really cool features, like the central snug area, which is super cosy and still has its original fireplace, door, and fixed seating. Out front, you can see “DOG & PARTRIDGE GILMOURS WINDSOR ALES & STOUTS” in raised letters, which looks amazing and really catches the eye. Plus, it’s situated on the old medieval “Salt Way” route, so it must have been an important stop for travellers crossing the Pennines.

Tonight at the bar, there’s an awesome selection of 4 cask ales, all hailing from Yorkshire, with 3 of them from South Yorkshire. I went for “Homestead,” a brew from Abbeydale Brewery in Sheffield. It’s made with Ekuanot, Mosaic, and Idaho 7 hops, and it’s a super tasty, juicy hazy pale ale that has some nice tropical fruit notes.