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Historic Pubs and Craft Beer in Leith
A journey through Leith, Scotland, which showcases its transformation from a historic trading hub to a vibrant cultural centre. Starting from the Roseleaf Bar Café with its unique drinks and vintage ambiance, the tour includes stops at various pubs like Teuchters Landing, Lost In Leith, and the Shore Bar, each with their own maritime history and inviting atmospheres. Several local breweries, such as Campervan and Newbarns, offer an impressive selection of craft beers. I enjoy a range of different ales, all while appreciating Leith’s rich heritage and lively contemporary scene, culminating in a delightful exploration of the area’s drinking establishments.
I took the train from Newcastle to Edinburgh and then hopped on the tram to Leith. This area is known for its port, which was Scotland’s main trading hub back in the 18th Century. You can still spot traces of that maritime past in the buildings and the way the place is laid out. Nowadays, Leith has turned into a lively cultural hotspot, filled with a mix of restaurants, cafés, bars, and unique shops that showcase its rich history and contemporary vibe.
Roseleaf Bar Cafe
I checked out Roseleaf Bar Café first in Leith, and it was a great experience! This cosy café and bar is set in a historic building that used to be The Black Swan, an old hotel that was quite the hangout back in the day when the area had a bit of a wild reputation. They opened up in 2007, and the name “Roseleaf” reflects their original idea, which has since transformed into something really special.
The inside is lively and inviting, featuring antique church pews for shelving and keeping the original flooring intact. This mix of vintage and modern creates a really warm vibe, and it looks fantastic. Their signature drinks, known as “Pot-tails” or “Cock-pots,” have become quite popular since they opened.
On the bar they had a cask ale from the local Stewart Brewing on tap, along with a solid selection of kegs and even more options in the fridges. I chose “Edinburgh Gold” from Stewart Brewing. It’s a tasty, nicely balanced golden ale.
Teuchters Landing
A quick stroll takes me to Teuchters Landing, nestled in the Shore area of Leith. This spot opened its doors in 2008, set in what used to be a waiting room for the Leith to Aberdeen steamboat ferry, giving it a cool historical vibe. It’s right next to “Rennie’s Lock,” a notable historical landmark at the entrance to the Old Docks in Leith.
The pub’s design pays homage to its maritime roots while offering a warm and inviting atmosphere. There’s a spacious beer garden, a cosy lounge called the Bothy, and a pontoon area on the water that draws in crowds when the weather’s nice. Inside, you’ll find several smaller rooms and a charming conservatory.
At the bar, you can choose from four cask beers, a still cider, and a mix of permanent and rotating keg options. I went with “Citra Blonde” from Stewart Brewing today. It’s got this beautiful golden blonde look and a refreshing, citrusy floral flavour that I really enjoyed.
Lost In Leith Bar & Fermentaria
Just a quick stroll around the corner takes me to Lost In Leith Bar & Fermentaria, which is operated by Campervan Brewery. It opened its doors in March 2020 in the revamped Commercial Quay area, where you can also find a fantastic outdoor market on Saturdays with tons of awesome stalls.
As soon as you step inside, you’re greeted by a warm and inviting space filled with wood and natural materials, creating a cosy vibe that feels a bit like being underground thanks to the stonework. At the back, there are several large oak foeders used for barrel-aging beers, which really stand out as a cool feature. These were crafted by Allary Tannerllerie in France.
The bar boasts an impressive selection of beers, featuring both their own brews and guest options from all over. You’ll find 17 keg beers and ciders, plus a still cider to enjoy. I came across a sour beer from Hudson Valley Brewery in the US called “Star Chamber.” It’s a tasty, tart pale ale that packs some awesome flavours like green tea, papaya, and coconut, all hopped up with Citra and Nelson Sauvin.
The Shore Bar
I took a stroll deeper into Leith, crossing the Water of Leith and heading towards The Shore Bar. You’ll find a fantastic bar and restaurant that’s super popular. When you walk in, you’ll notice it’s divided into two spaces: the main bar area and a dining section that focuses on seafood and game. The bar area feels way more spacious than it actually is, thanks to the high ceilings and a big mirror at the back that tricks you into thinking the room is larger than it is.
The entrance door to the bar is impressive, featuring a lovely wood-panelled design. The bar itself really catches the eye, complete with a gantry held up by barley-twist columns. The décor mixes maritime vibes with modern elements, creating a cosy and welcoming atmosphere.
You can choose from two cask ales at the bar, plus a variety of keg beers to enjoy. I went with “Pentland IPA” from Stewart Brewing. It’s a smooth, golden dry ale that’s super easy to drink, with a hint of fruity flavours. Really refreshing!
Moonwake Beer Co
Just a stone’s throw away is Moonwake Beer Co., an awesome brewery and taproom that kicked off in 2021. The name “Moonwake” captures the moon’s glow on water, highlighting both the brewery’s spot and the significance of water quality in the brewing process.
The upstairs taproom is super lively and colourful, making it a really welcoming place. They also have some outdoor seating out front. You’ll get a warm greeting and some amazing views of the entire brewery setup, which definitely enhances the taproom experience.
At the bar, you’ll find a fantastic selection of 12 beers brewed right on the premises, plus a variety of cans available for takeout. I tried out a couple of their sour beers today, kicking things off with the “Yuzu & Kaffir Lime Sour” and then moving on to the “Honeyberry Sour.” They were both amazing—super refreshing, tangy, and packed with fruity flavours.
Carriers Quarters
Just a quick 5-minute stroll takes me to Carriers Quarters, one of Leith’s oldest pubs, established way back in 1785. It even has a plaque claiming it’s the oldest pub in Leith that hasn’t changed a bit. The name comes from its history as a stop for carriers and travellers hauling goods and people through the busy port of Leith.
When you walk in, the pub is divided into two areas. The first room has the bar and is filled with old photos of Leith. The back room is amazing, featuring exposed stone walls and a bunch of cool memorabilia scattered around. It’s a super cosy spot that’s managed to keep its charm while evolving over the years.
You can pick from two cask ales at the bar, plus a variety of keg beers, many from local breweries. I checked out a sour beer on tap from Belhaven Brewery. It’s called “Square Gose,” and it’s inspired by the Passion Fruit Margarita. This German-style sour beer is packed with passion fruit, lemon, and orange zest, giving it a nice tart and tangy finish.
Dreadnought
I took a quick tram ride from Port of Leith to Newhaven, which is where the line ends. While I was there, I checked out Dreadnought. It used to be called The Halfway House, and it’s changed a lot over the years, becoming a lively spot for the community. The old name really showed it was a pit stop for both travellers and locals.
The building has that classic Scottish pub vibe, with a wooden interior that has been well-kept. Inside, you’ll find a fun mix of décor, including some cool nautical art and bits of history from its days as The Halfway House. It’s a super friendly place to hang out.
When it comes to drinks, they’ve got plenty to choose from—four cask ales and a big variety of keg beers available at both the main bar and a side bar. There’s something for everyone, no matter your taste. I tried a tasty sour from Otherworld Brewing, a Scottish brewery. It’s called “LUMEN,” and it’s a juicy sour beer that’s blended with whole leaf Mu Tan White tea. It has some nice fruity flavours, hints of peach, and a refreshing citrus finish.
I had a great time catching up with Jenny and Kenny from the Real Ale Finder App while I was there!
Steel Coulson Shore
Next I went to check out Steel Coulson Shore by hopping on the tram! This spot is their new location since the lease on the old one ran out. It’s named after Steel, Coulson & Co. Ltd, a brewery that kicked off in 1865. After changing hands a few times—first to Croft-an-Righ, then Greenhead Brewery, and finally Vaux—brewing wrapped up in 1960.
When you walk in, you’ll see the bar right away, with a ton of fridges to your left. There’s seating around the bar, and at the back, there’s a cosy room with warm lighting that really sets a chill vibe. The walls are decked out with brewery memorabilia, and the stained glass windows scattered around are pretty impressive.
The bar has a nice lineup of 2 cask ales, 5 keg beers, and 4 still ciders. Plus, there’s a huge variety of cans and bottles in the fridges that you can enjoy on-site or take home. I went for a “Single Hop Series: Citra” from Five Kingdoms Brewery, who are based in Isle of Whithorn, Dumfries. It’s a super tasty and smooth pale ale made with Citra hops.
Malt & Hops
I took a quick walk around the corner and found myself at Malt & Hops, a pub that’s been around since 1747, making it one of the oldest spots in the area. Back in the day when Leith was a busy port town, this place was a go-to for sailors and dockworkers.
The pub has managed to keep its charm over the years, and as soon as you step inside, you’re welcomed by a cosy vibe, complete with a lovely real fire. The walls are decorated with all sorts of mirrors, prints, and beer memorabilia. Plus, there’s a nice outdoor seating area out front where you can enjoy some great views of the Water of Leith.
At the bar, you’ll find an awesome selection of cask ales—eight different ones from various breweries, along with a few keg beers to choose from. I went with “Corby Blonde” from the bar, a brew from Great Corby. It’s a light, medium-bodied blonde ale that’s super easy to drink and really addictive.
Leith Bottle Shop
I managed to drop into Leith Bottle Shop whilst en route to my next bar. This offers a diverse selection of beers from local breweries as well as international options.
If you are passing then this is definitely worth dropping into and seeing what they have in stock!
Campervan Brewery
My next visit is to the first of two brewery taprooms, the first one being Campervan Brewery. The brewery was established in 2017, the brewing started out in a garage with a 1973 VW Campervan named Olive. They’ve really grown since then, moving up to a top-notch brewhouse to keep up with the rising demand.
Their taproom is situated in an industrial area, featuring a cool mix of rustic and modern vibes. You’ll find exposed painted walls and industrial-style fixtures that create a warm yet trendy atmosphere, plus some comfy bench seating to kick back on. A great warm welcome from the team behind the bar today also.
At the bar, you can enjoy a solid lineup of 6 of their own beers, 4 guest kegs, and a couple of ciders. There’s a nice variety of styles to pick from here! I kicked things off with the “Mango Mimosa” from Campervan Brewery. It’s a tasty Berliner Weisse that’s both tart and sour, made with mangoes and limes—super refreshing! Then, I moved on to the “Cornish Blackberry Crumble & Clotted Cream Sour,” a collab between New Bristol Brewery and Bluntrock Brewery for Elusive’s Collabageddon 2024. This winter sour is loaded with Cornish blackberries and delivers some incredible flavours.
Newbarns Brewery
A quick 5-minute stroll takes me to the second brewery taproom, which is Newbarns Brewery. This place was started in 2019 by four buddies who have brewing experience from The Kernel and Beavertown. They snagged some equipment from Molson Coors to get their brewery up and running.
The taproom is right inside the brewery and has a super welcoming vibe, thanks to its cool triangular shape and those high ceilings you usually find in warehouses. You can smell the malt from the fermentation tanks as you kick back in a laid-back atmosphere, complete with communal seating and some fun games to play. Plus, there’s a nice outdoor area out front that feels just like a classic pub beer garden.
At the bar, you’ll find a fantastic lineup of 10 keg beers on tap, showcasing a variety of styles. I decided to try “Social Beer,” which is a really juicy hazy pale and tastes amazing. It’s such a tasty brew!
Old Eastway Tap
My last stop on the way back to Edinburgh is the Old Eastway Tap, which is run by Cross Borders Brewing. This place used to be called the Four in Hand and was a popular hangout for Hibernian Football Club fans. The name “Four in Hand” comes from a memorable moment when Hibs won the Scottish Cup in 1902 and paraded the trophy down Easter Road. In 2020, it was renamed Riordan’s by former Hibs player Derek Riordan and Michael Wright, keeping that Hibs vibe alive, but it only lasted about a year before shutting down. It made a comeback in its current form in November 2021.
The inside has a spacious open layout with wooden floors and warm colours, creating a cosy and inviting atmosphere. There’s also outdoor seating out front if you want to relax and people-watch.
They’ve got a solid selection of beers on tap, both cask and keg, with several options from Cross Borders Brewing. I went with the “Braw Hazy Pale Ale” from Cross Borders Brewing Co. It’s a super juicy hazy pale ale packed with awesome citrus notes.
Micropub Adventures 
Old Eastway Tap — fantastic place and top notch cask beers.
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