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Leeds Pubs: From Hidden Gems to Historic Icons
I explore several pubs in Leeds, each with unique atmospheres and histories. Starting at Wapentake, known for its Yorkshire breakfasts and community feel, I highlight establishments like Doghouse Bar & Bagel Shop, The Duck & Drake, and White Cloth Hall, with their charming blends of vintage and modern décor. The Tetley Pub, Grove Inn, and Northern Monk Refectory further showcase Leeds’ brewing heritage. Other notable mentions include Cross Keys, Midnight Bell, The Hop, Bundobust, and Tapped Leeds, which offer a mix of local beers and vibrant settings. Lastly, The Bankers Cat, Friends of Ham, The Brewery Tap, and Whitelock’s Ale House reflect the city’s rich pub culture and welcoming vibe.
Leeds started as a small Anglo-Saxon village by the River Aire, later growing into a busy market town in medieval times. It took off during the Industrial Revolution, becoming a powerhouse for wool and textiles. The city boomed with mills, canals, and railways, drawing in workers from all over. By the 20th century, Leeds expanded into finance, education, and the arts. It’s a diverse, modern city with a strong student scene, great music, and football pride in Leeds United.
Wapentake
My first visit of the day (for Breakfast) was to Wapentake. This opened in 2015 on Kirkgate, the oldest street in Leeds, in a restored 18th-century building. Named after the old Yorkshire term “wapentake” (a historic Viking word for a local meeting place) it became just that: a modern gathering spot with strong local roots. Serving up proper Yorkshire breakfasts, pudding burgers, craft ales, and tea. More than a café-bar, it has hosted open-mic nights, pub quizzes, and local markets, helping revive the area. With its cosy vibe and community feel, Wapentake blends Leeds’ past and present perfectly—a little slice of Yorkshire where everyone feels welcome.
Step inside and it feels like pure Yorkshire. There’s exposed brick, wooden tables, vintage touches, and a chalkboard menu full of hearty comfort food and local drinks. The vibe is relaxed and cosy—somewhere between a café, a pub, and your mate’s living room. You’ll catch the smell of bacon or fresh coffee, maybe see someone tucking into a Yorkshire pudding burger or sipping a beer. The staff are friendly, the music’s easygoing, and the space feels warm and lived-in. Whether you’re after brunch, a pint, or just a quiet corner to unwind, it’s got that proper homely feel.
I went for the “Breakfast Yorkshire Puds” for Breakfast. Crispy Bacon, Sausage and Hendo’s Beans in Yorkshire Puddings with Scrambled Eggs and Tomato on the side. Delicious!
Drinks wise a cask ale on the bar from Westgate Brewery alongside a number of craft keg options. I went for “WB Pale” from Westgate Brewery. A crisp, refreshing and easy drinking single hopped pale ale.
Doghouse Bar & Bagel Shop
Next door was a visit to Doghouse Bar & Bagel Shop. This opened in July 2017 in a beautifully restored 19th-century building on Kirkgate, Leeds’s oldest street. The building was once a cloth merchant’s house, reflecting the city’s rich industrial past. With careful restoration preserving original timber windows, blue-slate roofing, and lime-mortar pointing, the venue celebrates Leeds’s heritage. The owners transformed this historic space into a unique spot that respects its roots while creating a fresh, welcoming atmosphere.
Inside you’ll find a cool mix of old and new vibes. The space keeps its original character with exposed brick walls, wooden beams, and vintage touches that nod to the building’s history. It feels cosy and laid-back, with comfy seating and warm lighting that make it easy to relax. The décor blends rustic charm with modern style, creating a spot that’s both welcoming and a bit quirky.
Drinks wise a choice of 2 cask ales, alongside a range of keg beers. I went with the collaboration between Ossett Brewery and Siren Craft Brew “DDH NEIPA”. A super hoppy, soft and super tasty double dry hopped New England IPA.
The Duck & Drake
Nest up is The Duck & Drake. This is one of Leeds’ oldest pubs, with roots going back to the 1700s. It used to be called The Horse & Groom and The Broughams Arms and over the years, it’s been a favourite spot for locals to grab a pint and catch up. The name “Duck and Drake” comes from an old game where people skipped stones across water—pretty quirky, right? The pub’s seen Leeds grow from a busy industrial town into the lively city it is today. With its classic Victorian look and friendly feel, it’s still the kind of place where you can soak up a bit of history while enjoying a good drink with friends.
Inside it’s got that cosy, old-school pub vibe with wooden beams and brick walls that feel really warm and welcoming. The low ceilings and fireplaces make it perfect for chilling out with mates or just having a quiet drink. It’s got that classic pub look but with a few modern touches—like comfy leather seats and soft lighting—so it never feels stuck in the past. A great outdoor area at the side which feels so far away from the busy streets around.
On the bar a brilliant selection of 15 cask ales to choose from so you wont be stuck for choice. I opted to go with “Harelquin” from Stancill Brewery. A fantastic, well balanced blonde ale packed full of flavour.
White Cloth Hall
A short walk next brings me to White Cloth Hall in Leeds. This has a rich history dating back to 1775–76, when it was built as the city’s third trading hall for undyed woollen cloth which was a key part of Leeds’ booming textile trade. With over 1,200 stalls around a central courtyard, it quickly became a hub of commerce. Its distinctive dome came from the second hall, built in 1756. Over the years, it hosted everything from markets to circus acts, including Pablo Fanque’s troupe and even a hot-air balloon launch in 1786 that drew 30,000 spectators. Most of it was demolished in 1865 for a railway, but the western end remained. It became a Pizza Express in the ’90s, then sat quiet until Whitelock’s team took it over in 2024, reviving it as a buzzing food and drink hall with bars, kitchens, and event spaces, giving new life to this Grade II listed gem.
Inside is a mix of old charm and modern vibes. You’ve got original brick walls, wooden beams, and loads of natural light pouring in. There’s a central bar, buzzing with people, and a bunch of food stalls serving up everything from street food to small plates. Upstairs, there are cosy mezzanine spots where you can chill and look out over the action, as well as a great large outdoor area at the rear. It’s got a relaxed, welcoming feel—perfect for grabbing a drink, catching up with mates, or just exploring something new. The mix of history and cool design makes it feel special without trying too hard.
4 cask ales to choose from on the bar alongside a great keg line up as well as lots of cans and bottles to choose from. I went with “Jasper” from Kirkstall Brewery. This version is hopped using Citra and Mosaic and was delicious, super tasty and very refreshing.
The Tetley Pub
Another short walk brings me to The Tetley Pub in Leeds. This place has had quite a journey. Founded in 1822 by Joshua Tetley, it grew to become one of Britain’s most famous breweries, known especially for its cask ales and iconic branding. The brewery’s striking Art Deco headquarters, built in 1931, became a symbol of Leeds’ rich industrial and brewing heritage. Although brewing stopped in 2011 and much of the original site was demolished, the historic building was preserved and repurposed as a contemporary art gallery in 2013, celebrating Leeds’ creative spirit. That chapter closed in late 2023, and in April 2024, Kirkstall Brewery took over the space, bringing it back to its brewing roots.
It has been transformed into a vibrant pub that celebrates both its rich brewing heritage and the local community. Upon entering, you’re greeted by a warm, inviting atmosphere where original Art Deco features blend seamlessly with contemporary touches. The walls are adorned with an impressive collection of brewing memorabilia, showcasing the city’s beer culture. Comfortable seating areas, including cosy leather Chesterfields and antique pub tables, provide spaces for both relaxation and socialising. The venue also boasts a spacious outdoor beer garden, perfect for enjoying a pint on sunny days.
Drinks wise a choice of 6 cask ales, a great range of keg beers and lots of choice of cans and bottles behind the bar. I had to go for “Tetley’s English Ale” in here. Smooth, easy drinking and full of flavour.
The Grove Inn
Onto The Grove Inn next. This has been around since the 1830s and is one of the city’s oldest pubs. It started by serving local mill and canal workers and soon became a popular meeting spot. In 1928–29, it was re-modelled, giving the building much of the layout and character it still has today. In the 1960s, it became known for folk music, with live sessions that still happen now. Over the years, it’s drawn in students, musicians, and locals alike. Despite nearby redevelopment, The Grove has stood firm, keeping its place as a small but important part of Leeds’ history.
Inside it’s cosy, relaxed, and full of charm. There are wood-panelled rooms, comfy corners, open fires in winter, and loads of music posters and photos on the walls. It feels like a proper old pub, the kind that’s been lived in and loved for years. There’s a small concert room which was an interwar addition where folk and acoustic gigs take place, a real hidden gem for live music. This retains some original perimeter seating. The bar’s small but has everything you need, and the whole place has a friendly, down-to-earth vibe. Outside a large beer garden with part of it covered.
Drinks wise a great line up of 8 cask ales ranging in styles and lots of local breweries to choose from. Here I opted to go with “IPA” from Pennine Brewing Co. A crisp, golden and very easy drinking pale ale.
Northern Monk Refectory
A short walk brings me to Northern Monk Refectory. Northern Monk began in 2013 as a small operation in a Bradford basement, founded by Russell Bisset and Brian Dickson with a £5,000 investment. By 2014, they had moved to the Old Flax Store in Holbeck, Leeds, a Grade II-listed building that once served as a flax warehouse for Marshall’s Mill in the 19th century. This location became the brewery’s first permanent site, housing both the brewing operations and the Northern Monk Refectory which includes a taproom, kitchen, and events space. The brewery quickly gained recognition for its innovative beers and community-focused approach. In 2017, Northern Monk expanded to a larger facility on Sydenham Road in Holbeck to meet growing demand. Despite this expansion, the Old Flax Store remains a central part of their identity, blending industrial heritage with modern craft brewing.
Inside Northern Monk Refectory, the look is cool and industrial with plenty of exposed brick, high ceilings, and large windows letting in loads of natural light. It’s got a laid-back, friendly feel where people come to grab a drink, enjoy food pop-ups, and catch events. The space is open and airy with long wooden tables perfect for groups or relaxing with friends, alongside a large outdoor area to the front. You’ll notice the mix of old and new — the building’s history shines through but with a fresh, modern twist.
Drinks wise a massive array of both cask and keg beers to choose from, some of which are brewed on site, whilst others at their larger brewery down the road. Even more choices are available in cans and bottles. I went with a cask beer from their Fresh Beer range brewed on site. “Motueka” was a delicious, fresh and refreshing pale ale full of flavour and very easy drinking.
Cross Keys
Next up is a short stroll to Cross Keys in Holbeck, Leeds. This has been serving locals since 1802. Originally built as a watering hole for nearby foundry workers, it became a hub for industrial figures like Matthew Murray. Legend has it that James Watt rented a room here in 1802 to spy on Murray’s workers and steal trade secrets. After falling into disrepair in the 1980s, the pub was lovingly restored by North Bar in 2005, blending historic charm with modern flair.
Inside feels warm and full of character. It’s got those classic wooden beams and cosy corners that make you want to settle in for a while. The old brick walls and vintage photos give it a proper historic feel, but the space is bright and inviting, not dark or gloomy. There’s a mix of comfy benches and wooden tables, perfect for catching up with friends or enjoying a quiet moment. Overall, it’s the kind of place that feels friendly and relaxed, where history and comfort blend effortlessly. A large outdoor area to the rear is great for enjoying the nice weather.
A line up on the bar of 4 cask ales, alongside a range of keg lines with lots of different choices. Further options can be found in the fridges behind the bar. Something for everyone. I decided to go with “Alsopp’s Pale Ale” from Allsopp’s Brewery. A well balanced, full of flavour and tasty pale ale.
The Midnight Bell
Just up the street is The Midnight Bell. This has an interesting history, although the building dates back to the early 1800s as part of the Round Foundry, developed by Matthew Murray, it was converted into a pub only in 2007. Leeds Brewery opened it as their flagship venue, bringing new life to the historic site. The Round Foundry itself played a key role in Leeds’ industrial past, and the pub keeps that legacy alive with its traditional style and atmosphere.
Inside you’ll notice plenty of exposed wooden beams and brickwork, keeping that old industrial look from when it was part of the Round Foundry. The bar is made of polished wood, with vintage-style light fittings hanging from the ceiling. There’s stained glass windows adding a splash of colour, and classic tiled floors that give it a proper traditional pub look. The beer garden out back has wooden benches and plenty of greenery, making it a simple but charming outdoor space. Overall, the pub’s design blends its industrial past with classic pub features really well.
5 cask ales on the bar including 3 from Leeds Brewery, alongside a great line up of keg beers to choose from. I went with “Leeds Pale” from Leeds Brewery. A lovely light, refreshing and tasty pale ale.
The Hop
Next is onto The Hop. This is tucked away in the dark brick arches beneath Leeds railway station, originally built in the 1860s to support the station’s construction and span the river. These historic arches now house a lively pub spread over two levels, with exposed brickwork and vibrant murals giving it plenty of character. The building’s past is tied to the station and the once rundown surrounding area, which has since been transformed through the regeneration of Holbeck Urban Village and the Leeds waterfront. Today, The Hop is a popular spot that adds to the area’s buzzing vibe with cafes, bars, and public art all around.
Inside you’ll find a cool mix of industrial charm and modern style. The exposed brick arches and original ironwork give the space a raw, authentic feel, while colourful murals and warm lighting add a lively, welcoming touch. The pub spreads over two levels, with plenty of cosy seating areas, from booths to communal tables, perfect for groups or solo visitors. Outside seating at the front overlooking the canal.
On the bar a fantastic line up of 10 cask ales, numerous craft keg lines and lots more choice of cans and bottles in the fridge. I went with “Spring Pale” from Riverhead Brewery. A delicious pale, crisp and refreshing pale ale.
Bundobust
Through the Railway Arches brought me next to Bundobust. This popped up in 2016 and quickly became a favourite for anyone into tasty Indian street food and craft beer. It’s got this chilled, industrial vibe near the Corn Exchange that’s perfect for hanging out with mates or grabbing a quick bite. The place is all about veggie-friendly grub that’s full of flavour, plus loads of beers to try. Since opening, it’s been a go-to spot for good food without the fancy fuss, and the buzzy, friendly vibe keeps people coming back again and again.
Inside is a relaxed, industrial feel with exposed brick walls, big windows, and wooden tables. The space is bright but cosy, with colourful Indian-inspired artwork adding a bit of fun. There’s a cool open kitchen where you can see the food being made, which adds to the buzz. It’s mostly casual seating—long benches and tables perfect for groups or grabbing a spot with friends.
Drinks wise a line up of 12 keg beers and 2 cask ales. A number are from their own brewery based in Manchester. A sour beer in here for me, “Comb Your Hair & Be Polite” from Sureshot Brewing was my choice, brewed in collaboration with Bundobust Brewery. A tasty, sour and tart beer with strawberry, rhubarb, vanilla and cinnamon flavours.
Tapped Leeds
Onto Tapped Leeds. This opened in 2013 and quickly became a popular spot for locals and visitors alike. It’s known for its lively vibe and community feel, often hosting events. The building itself has a modern, industrial look with some quirky touches, fitting well into Leeds’ evolving bar scene. Located near the city centre, it’s easy to get to and often busy at weekends.
The pub has a custom-built Czech decoction brew kit, allowing them to produce fresh beer here. This setup not only supports their own house brews but also enhances the overall brewing experience for customers. The beers are often served fresh and unfiltered from large bar-side tanks.
Inside has a cool, laid-back feel inside that mixes industrial charm with modern touches. Exposed brick walls and steel beams give it that raw, warehouse feel, while comfy seating and warm lighting make it easy to relax with mates. The space is open and airy, with plenty of natural light during the day. Funky artwork and quirky decorations add personality without feeling over the top. It’s got a lively yet friendly atmosphere, perfect for catching up or chilling out.
Lots of choices drinks wise in here with a large array of both cask and keg options to choose from, alongside fridges full of bottles and cans behind the bar. A second sour beer of the day, “Tarte Citron” from Ampersand Brew Co. Based on the classic lemon dessert, this super sour kettle soured beer is sharp and creamy.
The Bankers Cat
Over the road brings me to The Bankers Cat. This opened in 2019 as part of a joint venture between Thornbridge Brewery and Pivovar. This partnership focuses on revitalising historic buildings into modern pubs with character. The pub occupies a Grade II listed building on Boar Lane, originally built in 1873 as the Saracen’s Head Inn. During the 20th century, the building was converted into a bank before being transformed back into a pub. The name and design pay tribute to its banking heritage.
Inside you’ll find a welcoming blend of old-world charm and modern comfort. The main bar area boasts a full mahogany counter, surrounded by leather seating and wooden panelling, creating a cosy atmosphere. A standout feature is the bespoke stained-glass window, a replica of the original Edward Burne-Jones windows from Thornbridge Hall. Downstairs, the former bank vaults have been transformed into intimate spaces, including a snug with a large steel door and a pool table area. The pub’s décor is further enriched by paintings of cats in formal attire, adding a whimsical touch to the traditional setting.
A fantastic line up of 8 cask ales on the bar, complemented by a large selection of keg options. My beer of choice was “Strong Dark Mild” from Thornbridge Brewery brewed on the Union. A delicious beer.
Friends of Ham
Around the corner brings me to Friends of Ham. It opened in July 2012 with the goal of bringing high-quality charcuterie and drinks to Leeds. The original setup was a relaxed and informal spot, starting with a small ground-floor bar and a larger hidden basement. Two years later, they expanded into the neighbouring unit, increasing their space and offerings. Housed in a building that was once part of a local warehouse, Friends of Ham quickly became known for its friendly vibe and community feel. Owned by passionate locals, it’s a popular hub for social gatherings and creative events in Leeds.
Inside feels cosy and welcoming, with a cool, laid-back vibe that makes you want to enjoy for hours. The ground floor is small but charming, with simple wooden tables and warm lighting that gives it a relaxed feel. Downstairs, the hidden basement is a bigger, snugger space with exposed brick walls and soft lighting, perfect for groups or a chill night out. The mix of rustic and modern touches creates a unique atmosphere that’s casual but stylish. A great selection of food and includes a choose your own sharing platter with a selection of different meats and cheeses, alongside sides.
A great selection of both cask and keg beers to enjoy, alongside a fantastic choice of bottles and cans to choose from. “Hamthology” from Anthology Brewing Company. A light, easy drinking and full of flavour pale ale.
The Brewery Tap
Up the road to The Brewery Tap. This was opened in 2013 by Leeds Brewery, it quickly became a popular spot thanks to its prime location opposite Leeds railway station. The building, with its curved frontage and modern industrial feel, offered a welcoming space for commuters and city drinkers alike. In 2016, it was taken over by Camerons Brewery, who gave it a refresh in 2017—adding a cosy upstairs bar and a small rooftop terrace perfect for sunny afternoons. With its lively atmosphere and close proximity to the station, it’s a favourite for people heading in or out of Leeds, or just enjoying a laid-back city pint.
Inside is a mix of modern and rustic with exposed brick, polished wood floors, and industrial-style lighting that gives it a warm, slightly urban feel. The downstairs space is open and welcoming, with big windows looking out onto New Station Street. Upstairs, there’s a snug mezzanine level that feels a bit more tucked away—ideal for quieter catch-ups or grabbing a seat when it’s busy. There’s also a small rooftop terrace that catches the sun on good days, offering a rare bit of open-air space in the city centre. It’s relaxed, comfortable, and always buzzing with life.
Drinks wise a selection of 3 cask ales alongside a range of keg beers to choose from. I went with “Leeds Best” from Leeds Brewery. A classic traditional Bitter, full bodied, malty and with some delicious flavours.
Whitelock’s Ale House
Next up is Whitelock’s Ale House. This is hidden down Turk’s Head Yard off Briggate, dates back to 1715 when it opened as The Turk’s Head. It was taken over by the Whitelock family in 1867, with John Lupton Whitelock expanding and rebranding it. His son William Henry Whitelock modernised the pub in 1895, installing electric lights and an opulent Victorian interior that still survives—think copper bar tops, etched mirrors, and tiled floors. By the early 20th century, it had become a hangout for Leeds’ bohemian crowd, including writers and artists. It’s now a Grade II listed building and one of the city’s most cherished pubs.
Inside feels like stepping back in time. The narrow space is packed with character—gleaming copper bar tops, dark wood panelling, stained glass, and original tiled floors. Antique mirrors line the walls, catching the warm glow from old-fashioned light fittings, and cosy booths run along one side, offering a bit of privacy in the bustle. It’s a place where you can settle in for hours, surrounded by a mix of Victorian elegance and old pub charm. Despite its age, it feels lively and welcoming, with a real sense of history layered into every detail. A true Leeds classic.
A fantastic line up of 10 cask ales to choose from on the bar, alongside a selection of keg options ranging in style. My choice was a collaboration between RedWillow Brewery and DEYA Brewing Company, “Fearless” is a well hopped, well balanced and tropical pale ale.
The Turk’s Head
Next door is The Turk’s Head Leeds. This has roots stretching back to the 18th century, originally named after a traditional inn that once stood nearby. Located in Turk’s Head Yard, just off Briggate, the space became part of Whitelock’s Ale House over time, with the two venues closely linked. The yard itself dates to the early 1700s and was once filled with workshops and small businesses. In 2015, the Turk’s Head name was revived for a separate bar space, honouring the area’s long pub history. Though modernised, the name and location reflect a deep connection to Leeds’ evolving social and drinking heritage.
Inside has a cosy, stylish feel with a mix of old charm and modern touches. The space is compact but thoughtfully designed, with deep green tiles, exposed brick, and warm lighting that gives it a relaxed, intimate vibe. There’s a mix of bar stools and small tables, perfect for catching up with friends or settling in for a quiet moment. It’s quieter than its neighbour Whitelock’s, offering a more laid-back atmosphere. The décor nods to its history without feeling dated, and the overall feel is cool, comfortable, and just a little bit hidden away.
Drinks wise they offer 2 cask beers alongside 12 keg lines showcasing a wide variety of styles and strengths. Lots of other options including cans, bottles and sharing bottles to choose from. I opted for another sour beer in here this time from Pastore Brewing and Blending in collaboration with Amundsen Brewery. Described as a berry, coconut layer cake, this certainly lives up to its description.
The Brew Society
Last up is a walk back towards the Railway Station to The Brew Society. This opened in Leeds in early 2018, transforming the former White Cloth Gallery on Aire Street into a chilled, welcoming place. Started by a group including Hippo Digital, the venue aimed to create a relaxed all-day hangout close to Leeds Station. Its location in a repurposed arts space gives it a unique feel, blending creative roots with casual socialising. Over the years, Brew Society has become a local favourite, known for its friendly atmosphere and connection to the city’s vibrant community, making it more than just a typical bar.
Inside it’s super chilled and comfy. You’ve got exposed brick walls and warm lights that give it a cool, slightly industrial feel without being too rough. There’s loads of different spots to sit, soft sofas, high stools at the bar, and tables if you want to hang with mates. Big windows let in plenty of daylight, making it feel bright and friendly during the day. It’s just the kind of place where you can kick back alone, catch up with friends, or even get some work done without feeling out of place.
Drinks wise a selection today of 4 cask ales and 9 keg lines, showcasing a great variety of styles. I finished the day with another sour from Pastore Brewing and Blending. “Waterbeach Weisse Mango & Passion Fruit” was a mixed culture Berliner Weisse with Mango and Passion Fruit. Delicious!
Micropub Adventures 