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From Mills to Micropubs: A Beer Lover’s Tour of Rochdale & Littleborough
I spent time exploring Rochdale and Littleborough’s pubs, each full of history, character, and great beer. From the Victorian charm of the Cemetery Hotel and the lively Flying Horse, to the mill-turned-brewery Twisted Mule and award-winning Baum, every stop offered something unique. I enjoyed cosy micropubs like The Pint Pot, Our Gracie’s, and The Lucky Duck, alongside landmarks such as Moody Blue and Bull on the Brow. In Littleborough, I discovered the heritage-rich Red Lion, welcoming Hare on the Hill, and scenic Moorcock Inn. Along the way I met passionate brewers, sampled local ales, and experienced true community spirit.
Rochdale and Littleborough have a history rooted in industry and community spirit. Rochdale grew into a busy textile town in the 1800s, with its mills powered by the River Roch and canal, and it became famous as the birthplace of the Co-operative movement in 1844. Littleborough, sitting on the edge of the Pennines, was shaped by its mills too, as well as the canal and railway that brought traders and travellers through. Both towns are full of character, with historic pubs, old buildings, and a strong sense of identity that mixes industrial heritage with local pride.
Rochdale
Cemetery Hotel
Cemetery Hotel in Rochdale is a Grade II listed public house, designated in 2010. It was built in the 1860s and its name derives from Rochdale Cemetery, opened directly opposite in 1855. The pub was originally associated with the Crown Brewing Company, which added decorative features in the early 20th century. It served the growing industrial community of Rochdale throughout the Victorian period and beyond. Today, it remains a recognised local landmark, noted for its historic significance and long presence in the town.
Inside feels like a slice of old Rochdale. It keeps its original three-room layout, with a central corridor and snug little bars leading off it. Edwardian tiling, polished mahogany, and etched glass give the place real character, while stained glass and old fireplaces add to the atmosphere. CAMRA has recognised it for its nationally important historic interior, and it still feels welcoming rather than like a museum. One of the back rooms is decorated with Rochdale A.F.C. memorabilia, making it a favourite with football fans as well as locals looking for a traditional pint.
Great to meet the team here including Joe from Crossroads Catering who run the kitchen here, and showcase a delicious menu of main meals and snacks to tempt your taste buds. On the bar a range of 5 cask ales to choose from, in a variety of styles alongside keg options. Beer wise I went for “Lorelei” from The Durham Brewery. A beautiful lemon and floral pale ale, lovely and hoppy with some great flavours.
The Flying Horse Hotel
Next up is The Flying Horse Hotel. This stands on Packer Street, Rochdale, where an inn is recorded from the late 1600s. By 1819, under innkeeper James Whitehead, it included a brew house, garden and cottage. In 1823, local leaders met there to discuss new policing powers, and from 1854 magistrates’ courts were held in the building. The old inn was a well-known landmark until its demolition in 1923. Three years later, in 1926, a new building opened on the same site. It was briefly called “The Sports” before quickly returning to its traditional name, the Flying Horse Hotel.
Step inside and it feels instantly welcoming. There’s lots of dark wood and vintage touches that give it a classic old-pub vibe. Patterned wallpaper, stained glass and a big fireplace add a bit of character. The seating is a mix of benches, stools and little corners where you can tuck yourself away, but there’s also plenty of open space for groups. A small stage sits ready for live music, adding to the lively feel on event nights. Upstairs, there’s a big function room that’s simple and flexible, often used for parties or community gatherings.
It was great to meet Johnny and Lucy in here, along with Anthony from Wakey Wakey Brew Co. who are launching their “Signo” beer for Rochdale Town of Culture 2025-2026, alongside an Ossett Brewery tap takeover with 12 cask beers and 10 keg lines. I went with “Signo – Rochdale Town of Culture 25/26” brewed by Wakey Wakey Brew Co in collaboration with Birds Cross Brewing, Serious Brewing, Twisted Mule Brewery and Whitworth Valley Brewing to mark Rochdale’s recognition as Greater Manchester Town of Culture 2025/26. A great hoppy and tasty Blonde Ale.
Twisted Mule Brewery & Taphouse
Twisted Mule Brewery & Taphouse opened in the restored Spotland Bridge Mill, Rochdale, a site with strong links to the town’s textile past. Its name honours the “spinning mule,” a machine invented in 1779 by Samuel Crompton in nearby Bolton, which revolutionised cotton spinning and was widely used in Rochdale’s mills. By the 19th century, Rochdale was a major cotton town, with spinning mules central to production. Twisted Mule blends this heritage with modern brewing, repurposing an old cotton mill for craft beer. It stands as a tribute to Rochdale’s industrial history while fostering a new community hub.
Walking into Twisted Mule feels like stepping into a laid-back, characterful spot. The old mill setting adds plenty of charm, with exposed brickwork, heavy beams and iron pillars that nod to Rochdale’s industrial past. The furniture’s happily mismatched — comfy old chairs, solid wooden tables and quirky bits clearly chosen with care. Soft lighting gives the roomy space a cosy feel, making it easy to settle in. It’s the sort of place where you can relax, have a good natter, and take in the atmosphere without feeling rushed.
Was great meeting Dom and having the chance to look around the brewery setup. On the bar a selection of 4 cask ales, all brewed on the premises alongside a keg selection on the back wall. I went with their own “Big Stan’s Best Bitter”. A fantastic malty and well balanced Bitter.
The Baum
Onto The Baum which sits on Toad Lane in Rochdale in a building that was once a hardware shop. It became a pub in the early 1980s, taking its name from the nearby church of St Mary in the Baum. The spot is historic itself, lying next to the Co-operative Pioneers’ Museum, birthplace of the Co-op movement in 1844. The Baum kept much of its late-Victorian character, with wood panelling and period features, giving it the feel of an older inn. In 2013 it hit the headlines when it won CAMRA’s National Pub of the Year, putting Rochdale firmly on the beer map.
Inside you get that classic pub feel with plenty of charm. There’s dark wood everywhere, from the bar to the panelling, with tiled floors and stained glass touches that nod to its Victorian style. It’s split into little areas, so you can tuck yourself away in a snug corner or sit by the big windows looking onto Toad Lane. The main bar has a mix of locals and visitors, giving it a lively atmosphere. Upstairs there’s a function room with quirky décor, and outside a small beer garden that’s a real bonus in summer.
Drinks wise a great line up of 7 cask ales, a real cider and a range of keg options to choose from. I went with “Talon” from RT Brewing in here. A fantastic, tasty and well balanced American Pale Ale.
The Pint Pot
A short walk brings me to The Pint Pot in Rochdale. This occupies a building with a long and varied past. Built in the 19th century as part of a four-storey commercial block with loading doors, it once served warehousing and wholesale trade before gaining early 20th-century shopfronts. Over the years it housed a hair and beauty salon, the luggage shop Bragg, a party and balloon store, and even an upstairs congregation of the Apostolic Mission Mount of Olives Church. By the early 2020s, the ground floor became home to The Pint Pot micropub, now a cosy stop on Rochdale’s Heritage Pub Trail celebrating local ale.
Inside you’ll find a small but welcoming space that feels more like someone’s front room than a pub. There are just a few tables where regulars and newcomers easily mix, and the décor is quirky and relaxed, with murals and artwork adding plenty of character to the walls. Because it’s such an intimate place, conversation often flows naturally between tables, and the lack of loud music keeps the atmosphere calm and sociable. It’s the kind of spot where you quickly feel at home, enjoying the cosy surroundings and easygoing charm of a true micropub.
It is owned by Twisted Mule Brewery today and on the bar showcases 3 real ales brewed by them, alongside a range of keg options on the back wall. I went with “Pioneer Spirit” from Twisted Mule Brewery. A hoppy, easy drinking and tasty American Pale Ale.
The Moody Blue
Onto Moody Blue Rochdale pub in Rochdale. This occupies a Grade II listed corner building, originally built around 1760 as a manor house with an attached coach house. Over the centuries it changed from a private residence to other commercial uses before its conversion into licensed premises. The exterior retains its Georgian character, with period stonework and a strong street presence that reflects its age. Previously trading under names such as Bombay Brew, the building has long been a landmark in the town centre. Today it continues its life as the Moody Blue, serving locals while preserving its historic façade.
Inside, the pub has a cosy and welcoming feel, mixing historic character with a relaxed style. The rooms follow the old building’s layout, creating a slightly quirky flow between spaces. Features like stained-glass windows, exposed brick walls, and traditional wood furnishings add plenty of charm, while leather seating and soft lighting make it comfortable and homely. It’s not overly polished – more down-to-earth and lived-in, the kind of place made for settling in with a drink.
Drinks wise on the bar a couple of cask ales alongside a range of keg options to select from. I went with “Boltmaker” from Timothy Taylor’s Brewery. A delicious, well balanced Best Bitter.
Bull on the Brow
The Bull On The Brow in Rochdale takes its name from “Bull Brow,” a historic passage once linked with cattle and bull-baiting. Back in the day, cattle were driven through here to nearby slaughterhouses, and the brutal sport of bull-baiting drew big crowds by the River Roch. It all came to an end in 1820 after a tragic incident when part of a wall collapsed during a baiting, killing several people. The name stuck, and today the spot is better known for “The Bull on the Brow” bar on Baillie Street, a cosy cellar venue with Belgian and European beers.
Inside you head down into a cosy cellar bar with low ceilings, exposed brick and softly worn plaster that gives it a raw but warm feel. The lighting is dim and atmospheric, with the bar tucked to one side and a few side rooms branching off, making it feel a bit like a hidden maze. Walls are dotted with photos and there’s even a bold bull mural near the toilets, adding some character. It’s laid-back and unpretentious, more about enjoying good beer in a snug, atmospheric space than putting on any kind of flashy show.
A fantastic range of Belgian beers on the bar both on draft and in bottles so lots to choose from and lots of different styles. Here I went with “Timmermans Peche Lamnicus”, a lovely Lambic Fruit beer with natural peach.
It was fantastic to bump into Ging ‘Real Ale Trail’ in here today as well.
Our Gracie’s
Our Gracie’s is a micropub in Rochdale, opened on 1 December 2023. It is named in honour of Dame Gracie Fields, born Grace Stansfield in the town in 1898. Fields became an internationally acclaimed singer, actress, and comedian, rising from humble Rochdale beginnings to worldwide fame. The pub pays tribute to her enduring legacy and preserves her place at the heart of local memory. Though a recent addition to the town, its name links Rochdale’s present community with its cultural past. Our Gracie’s stands as a reminder of the town’s most famous daughter and her remarkable life story.
Step inside Our Gracie’s and it feels more like a cosy living room than a bar. The place is snug, with soft lighting, comfy chairs, and walls decorated with nods to Gracie Fields. There are little corners perfect for a quiet chat, and even a small lending library tucked away at the back. The décor has a touch of retro charm, giving it a homely, old-school feel. Music plays low enough to talk over, adding to the relaxed vibe. It’s the kind of spot where you can settle in, unwind, and feel part of a friendly, welcoming space.
Drinks wise a line up of 5 cask ales, showcasing local breweries alongside 8 real ciders and a great selection of keg beers. I opted to go with “Palomino Rising” from Bank Top Brewery. A refreshing, and easy drinking Blonde Ale.
The Lucky Duck
Last up in Rochdale was to The Lucky Duck. This is a quirky micropub known for its “duck-friendly” vibe and weekly Tuesday quiz. The building once formed part of the former Regal Cinema, opened in 1938 and later an ABC and Cannon before closing in 1992; it was then used as a bingo hall and became Wetherspoon’s Regal Moon in 1997. Before becoming the Lucky Duck, the site briefly operated as a bottle shop. Today it has gained a local reputation for character, charm, and its distinctly unusual hospitality, making it a distinctive part of Rochdale’s pub landscape.
Step inside and it feels a bit like someone’s quirky living room turned pub. It’s small but welcoming, with a relaxed, no-frills vibe. The décor leans toward playful rather than polished, with fun duck-themed touches scattered about. Upstairs you’ll find extra seating and a pool table, while downstairs people gather for the weekly quiz or just a chat. It’s the kind of place where regulars and newcomers mix easily, the staff keep things lighthearted, and there’s always a sense you’ve stumbled on a hidden gem rather than a typical high-street bar.
Was great to meet Kyle in here today and a really warm welcome. On the bar a line up of 3 cask ales, alongside a variety of keg choices. I decided to go with “White Witch” from Moorhouse’s Brewery. A very refreshing, easy drinking and tasty Blonde Ale.
Littleborough
The Red Lion
Onto Littleborough next. The Red Lion has roots going back to at least 1626, when it was used for auctions, inquests, and local meetings. The present building was erected around 1821 and gained its distinctive new frontage in 1871 under architect W. H. Rawlings. Its position between the Rochdale Canal and the railway made it a busy stop for traders and travellers alike during the 19th century. Long tied to Wilsons brewery, it still displays their checkerboard livery lamps as a reminder of that era. Surviving centuries of change, the Red Lion remains one of Littleborough’s best-known historic pubs.
Inside the Red Lion, you get a warm, traditional pub feel with plenty of character. It’s laid out in four separate rooms, each with its own atmosphere, so you can tuck yourself away for a quiet drink or enjoy the livelier bar area. There’s a mix of wood panelling, classic pub décor, and touches of history that give it an old-world charm without feeling stuffy. The place is popular with locals, creating a friendly, welcoming vibe, and there’s usually a good buzz on quiz nights. With cosy corners and a relaxed setting, it’s the kind of pub that feels instantly familiar.
Drinks wise a line up of 4 cask ales to choose from, alongside a selection of keg beers and other options. I went with “Sauvin Blanc” from Pictish Brewing Company. Brewed using Nelson Sauvin hops, this beer was a fantastic hoppy, tasty and easy drinking Blonde Ale.
The Hare on the Hill
Up the hill to The Hare on the Hill. This is a welcoming pub in Littleborough, named after the nearby Hare Hill. The area has deep roots: Hare Hill House was built around 1775 and later owned by the Newall family, who played a big role in the town’s growth. Just down the road, Hare Hill cricket ground has hosted matches since the 1870s. The pub itself was revived in 2021 after a period of closure, giving new life to a spot long enjoyed by locals. Today, it mixes community spirit, good beer, and a setting rich in Littleborough’s history.
Inside feels cosy and relaxed, with a friendly, no-fuss vibe. It’s not a big place, which makes it easy to feel at home as soon as you walk in. There’s a mix of wooden tables and comfy corners. The décor is simple but warm, with little touches that give it character without being overdone. It’s the kind of spot where you can settle in for a quiet pint, chat with locals, or try something new on tap in a laid-back, welcoming atmosphere.
A great line up of drinks in here with 4 cask ales and 8 keg lines to choose from, alongside lots of other options. I went with “Alchemists Ale” from Pictish Brewing Company. A crisp, refreshing and full of flavour Pale Ale.
The Moorcock – Blackstone Tavern & Kitchen
Last up is The Moorcock – Blackstone Tavern & Kitchen in Littleborough. This place has been welcoming people for centuries. Originally built as a farmhouse back in 1681, it later became a pub with a full licence in 1840. Sitting on the edge of the Pennines, it’s always been a popular stop thanks to its sweeping views across the moors. The building itself is Grade II listed, which means it’s officially recognised as a site of historic and architectural interest – even the attached barn is protected. Over the years it’s been a country inn, a family pub, and more recently rebranded as the Blackstone Tavern & Kitchen, though locals still know it fondly as the Moorcock. With good food, real ale, and cosy rooms upstairs, it’s still very much part of Littleborough’s character.
Inside the Moorcock Inn you get that mix of old-world pub charm and a comfortable modern feel. The bar area has low beams, wooden floors, and a rustic touch that makes it easy to settle in with a pint. The restaurant side feels brighter but still cosy, with stone features, sturdy wooden tables, and a laid-back atmosphere where you don’t feel rushed. In colder months there’s often a fire going, which adds to the homely feel. Upstairs, the rooms are simple, clean, and surprisingly quiet, many with big views over the Pennines. Overall, it feels welcoming, unfussy, and pleasantly traditional.
The beer garden at the rear offers stunning panoramic views over the surrounding hills and reservoirs. It’s a spacious, welcoming spot to enjoy a pint in the fresh air, with plenty of seating and a relaxed atmosphere that makes it perfect for sunny afternoons or peaceful evening drinks.
It was great to meet Ben and Dan alongside the team in here and managed to catch up with Dale The Great British Pub Crawl in here as well. On the bar a great line up of 4 cask ales, numerous keg options and a selection or cans in the fridge. I went with “Boddingtons” from J.W Lees. A lovely golden colour and a tasty creamy head, this beer is a blast from the past.
Micropub Adventures 