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History, Hops and the Heart of Leeds University
I joined It’s the Beer Walking in Leeds — a fun mix of history, stories, and seriously good beer, led by Simon Jenkins and Nicky Massen. We started at the University of Leeds, hearing about everything from Tolkien’s time there to the city’s industrial roots. Along the way we stopped at proper Leeds pubs like the Pack Horse and the Fenton for a few great pints, including some from Kirkstall and Northern Monk. It wasn’t just about the beer though — it was about the people, the places, and the feeling that Leeds is a city with real character and charm.
“It’s the Beer Walking” is a unique tour in Leeds led by Simon Jenkins and Nicky Massen. Simon’s a former British Beer Writer of the Year and long-time beer columnist for the Yorkshire Evening Post, while Nicky was a former PR officer for Tetley Brewery. They run a number of tours over several routes so please CLICK HERE if you are interested in going along on one of them.
Leeds University
The University of Leeds started in 1904, growing out of the Yorkshire College, which had been around since 1874. It became independent to support the booming industries and communities of West Yorkshire. Over the years, it’s developed into one of the UK’s top universities, known for its research, creativity, and lively student life.
Before becoming its own university, the Yorkshire College in Leeds was part of the Victoria University, a federation set up in 1887 that also included colleges in Manchester and Liverpool. The idea was to bring together top institutions in the north and award shared degrees. But as each college grew, they wanted more independence. Liverpool went its own way in 1903, and Leeds followed in 1904, while Manchester carried on as the Victoria University of Manchester.
Inspired by the 1867 Paris Exhibition, which highlighted how science could transform manufacturing, local leaders wanted to bring that innovation home. The Clothworkers’ Company of London stepped in with major funding, helping set up the Clothworkers’ Textile Department and state-of-the-art labs for dyeing, spinning, and weaving. The college’s focus on textiles blended scientific study with hands-on craft, training a generation of experts who powered the region’s mills. That blend of innovation, industry, and practical learning still defines the university’s character today.
Thanks to the Clothworkers’ Company’s generosity, the early Leeds campus really started to take shape. Their funding built the Clothworkers’ Buildings, opened in 1879, complete with weaving sheds, dyeing labs, and lecture rooms — the beating heart of the college’s textile teaching. A few years later came the Great Hall, finished in 1894, which quickly became the university’s grand centrepiece. Together, these buildings showed what Leeds was all about at the time — a mix of industrial know-how, scientific curiosity, and civic pride that still runs through the university’s character today.
A lot of what’s now the University of Leeds used to be made up of old back-to-back houses, workshops and narrow streets — the kind of tightly packed housing built for mill and factory workers in the 19th century. By the time the university began expanding in the 1950s and ’60s, many of these homes were in poor condition and were cleared to make way for new lecture theatres, labs and student buildings. You can still get a sense of what the area once looked like in parts of Woodhouse and Hyde Park, where some of those old terraces remain.
J. R. R. Tolkien was a big influence on the early days of the School of English at Leeds. He joined the university in 1920 as a lecturer and later became a professor, teaching everything from Old English to medieval literature. While he was here, he co-founded the Viking Club — a group where staff and students got together to read old Norse sagas, share ideas, and enjoy a pint or two. Tolkien also worked with his colleague E. V. Gordon on their famous edition of Sir Gawain and the Green Knight, which is still well known today. His time at Leeds helped shape both his academic career and the imaginative world-building that would later appear in his writing.
First World War Memorial
The University of Leeds’ First World War memorial was commissioned by Sir Michael Sadler, who was Vice-Chancellor in the early 1920s, to remember the students, staff, and alumni who lost their lives in the Great War. It was designed and carved in 1923 by Eric Gill, a well-known artist and letter-cutter who later created the Gill Sans typeface. Made from Portland stone, the memorial shows off Gill’s trademark clean, simple lettering and quiet sense of balance. It now stands in the Michael Sadler Building, named after the man who commissioned it.
The Parkinson Building
The Parkinson Building is one of Leeds’ most famous landmarks, with its big white clocktower that you can spot from all over the city. It was named after Frank Parkinson, an engineer and businessman who helped fund the project in the late 1930s. Work started before the Second World War, but the building wasn’t finished until 1951 because of the war. During that time, the rooftops were used by air-raid lookouts keeping watch over the city, since the tower gave such a good view. After the war, the Parkinson Building became the main entrance to the university and home to the Brotherton Library, along with offices and exhibition spaces.
In 1925, the University of Leeds made a silent film called University (Leeds) to raise money and support for its expansion. It showed students in labs and classrooms, alongside scenes of local industry, to highlight how the university and the city worked hand in hand. The film aimed to spark civic pride and encourage people and businesses across Leeds to donate towards its future growth.
The Brotherton Library
The Brotherton Library is one of the University of Leeds’ best-known buildings, famous for its beautiful round reading room and domed ceiling. It opened in 1936, funded by Lord Edward Brotherton, a Yorkshire industrialist and philanthropist who wanted to support learning in the city. The design was inspired by the British Museum’s Reading Room, giving it a grand, classical feel. Today, it houses the university’s Special Collections and remains one of the most impressive and much-loved study spaces on campus.
The Sir William Bragg Building
The Sir William Henry Bragg Building is one of the University of Leeds’ newest and most impressive additions, opened in 2021. It’s named after Sir William Henry Bragg, who was Professor of Physics at Leeds and, along with his son Lawrence, won the Nobel Prize in 1915 for their groundbreaking work on X-ray crystallography. The building brings together scientists and engineers from across different fields in state-of-the-art labs, teaching spaces, and collaborative areas. On the side of the building is a striking artwork by artist Sara Barker, called The Worlds of If. Made from metal and glass, it stretches across several storeys and represents the creativity and curiosity that drive scientific discovery — a nod to the Braggs’ work exploring the invisible structures of matter.
Agitpop Scene
Back in the late 1970s and early 1980s, Leeds University was at the centre of the agitpop scene — a mix of punk, art, and politics. Bands like Gang of Four, The Mekons, and Delta 5 started out in the university’s student circles, turning punk’s raw energy into something sharper and more thoughtful. Their songs tackled politics, class, and everyday life, all set to driving beats you could dance to. The university’s art and music departments encouraged that kind of creativity and questioning, and before long, Leeds had become one of the main hotspots for Britain’s post-punk sound.
Mechanical Engineering Building
The Mechanical Engineering Building at the University of Leeds has a large abstract relief above its entrance called A Celebration of Engineering Sciences. Created in 1963 by architect Allan Johnson and artist Alec Dearnley, it represents ideas like machinery, movement, and the link between people and technology. Although it looks like stone, it’s actually made from glass-fibre reinforced polyester, a modern material at the time. The building and artwork are both Grade II listed, recognised for their bold post-war design and connection to engineering themes.
The Pack Horse
The Pack Horse Pub in Woodhouse is one of the oldest pubs in Leeds, dating back to the seventeenth century. It originally stood on a main route into the city, serving travellers, traders and coachmen on their way to and from the markets. As Leeds expanded, the pub became part of the busy Woodhouse community, evolving from a roadside inn into a much-loved local. Over the centuries it has witnessed the area change from open countryside to a lively student neighbourhood, remaining a familiar landmark throughout. Its long history makes it one of the city’s enduring links to its early days as a growing market town.
Inside the atmosphere feels comfortably old-fashioned and full of charm. Each room features a small fireplace, dark wooden panelling and vintage pub mirrors, with deep leather seating running along the walls. The decor mixes dark greens and browns with warm lighting from old-style sconces and hanging lamps, giving everything a mellow glow. The pool table and dartboard keep the place lively. It feels like a proper Leeds student local — slightly worn, friendly, and full of character, with a timeless pub cosiness
On the bar a single cask ale alongside a range of keg beers and other options. I went for “Three Swords” from Kirkstall Brewery. A fantastic, easy drinking and well balanced pale ale.
The Houldsworth Building
The Houldsworth Building is one of Leeds’ classic engineering hangouts — the place you go for hands-on labs, noisy workshops and big problem-solving lectures. It’s home to mechanical and related engineering teaching, with project spaces where students tinker with everything from robots to Formula Student race cars.
Cemetery
What’s now part of the University of Leeds campus used to be the Leeds General Cemetery, also known as Woodhouse Cemetery. The university took it over in the 1960s, and although it’s now a quiet green space, many of the original graves are still there.
Pablo Fanque
Among those buried are Pablo Fanque, the Victorian circus owner mentioned in The Beatles’ song “Being for the Benefit of Mr Kite!”, and his wife Susannah Darby, who sadly died in 1848 when part of a circus gallery collapsed during a show. Pablo Fanque, born William Darby in 1810, was Britain’s first Black circus owner, famed for his skilled performances and Victorian-era success.
John Atkinson Grimshaw
The artist John Atkinson Grimshaw is buried there too — he was a Leeds-born artist known for his moody, lamplit paintings of Victorian streets and city scenes. Born in 1836, he left his railway job to follow his love for art. His work captures the glow of gas lamps, rainy streets, and foggy nights with amazing detail. He had a real talent for turning ordinary places into something dreamy and atmospheric. Most of his paintings feature cities like Leeds, Liverpool, and London. Although he didn’t get the recognition he deserved while alive, he’s now seen as one of Yorkshire’s most distinctive and evocative painters.
Leeds Grammar School Building
The old Leeds Grammar School building on Woodhouse Lane is now part of the University of Leeds, known as the West Wing. The grammar school used to be one of the city’s top schools, but in the 1930s it moved out to a bigger site in Headingley, where it stayed until it later merged to form The Grammar School at Leeds in 2008.
Marks & Spencer Company Archive
The Marks & Spencer Company Archive is just a short walk away. It tells the story of how M&S grew from a single market stall in Leeds Kirkgate Market in 1884, set up by Michael Marks, to one of Britain’s best-loved high street names. The archive is full of old adverts, packaging, clothes and food products that show how the company helped shape modern shopping. M&S was the first UK retailer to use sell-by dates and one of the pioneers of the ready meal, which it launched in the 1970s. Today, the archive is open to the public and used by students and researchers looking into everything from fashion to food history.
The Refectory
The Refectory at the University of Leeds might have started out as the main student dining hall, but it soon became a legendary gig venue. Back in the late ’60s and ’70s, it was part of the university circuit that hosted some huge names — The Who, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, The Rolling Stones, and even Jimi Hendrix all played there. The most famous night was The Who’s 1970 gig, which was recorded for their album Live at Leeds — often called one of the best live albums ever made. These days, the Refectory still hosts concerts and events, keeping that slice of rock history alive on campus.
The Old Bar
The Old Bar has long been one of the University of Leeds’ most iconic student venues. Opening in the 1950s, it began in the basement of the Union building, earning the nickname “the Cell Bar” for its low ceilings and dim lighting. Over the years, it became a favourite meeting place for generations of students and a witness to countless stories and societies. A notable moment in its history came in March 1974, when the University hosted Transvestism and Transsexualism in Modern Society, the UK’s first national TV/TS conference — a landmark event in the history of trans rights and visibility.
Inside, the Old Bar still keeps its classic pub atmosphere, with dark wood furnishings, traditional booths, and a long bar that remains the heart of the space. The walls are lined with framed photos, posters, and mementos from past student events, creating a sense of community and nostalgia. Whether filled with chatter during the day or buzzing with energy during quiz nights and match screenings, the Old Bar continues to feel warm, familiar, and unmistakably part of Leeds’ student life.
On the bar a selection of 3 cask ales, alongside a wide variety of keg beers to choose from. Includes a beer named “Mitigating Circumstances” which is a student-brewed pale ale created by the Leeds University Union Real Ale Society in collaboration with Kirkstall Brewery, celebrating campus life, creativity, and tradition through a refreshing hazy beer.
The Roger Stevens Building
The Roger Stevens Building is one of the most recognisable spots on the University of Leeds campus. Built in 1970 and named after former Vice-Chancellor Sir Roger Stevens, it’s a classic bit of Brutalist architecture — all sharp angles, concrete walls and confusing corridors. Inside are 25 lecture theatres stacked across different levels, which makes it feel a bit like a maze when you’re trying to find your class. Outside, it’s surrounded by the Roger Stevens pond, a peaceful little spot that’s become home to ducks and the odd heron, and a favourite place for students to sit between lectures.
The Fenton
The Fenton on Woodhouse Lane isn’t just a classic student pub — it’s also a big part of Leeds’ music history. Back in the late 1970s it was a regular hangout for members of The Mekons, one of the city’s most influential post-punk bands to come out of the university scene. The pub hosted gigs, rehearsals and plenty of late-night plotting, helping to shape the DIY Leeds sound that also produced Gang of Four and Delta 5. These days, the Fenton is still a favourite for students, musicians and locals — a proper Leeds landmark with stories in every corner.
Inside, The Fenton has a traditional old Leeds pub feel, with dark wood panelling, patterned carpets and a mix of tables, booths and bar stools that have clearly seen plenty of use over the years. The layout is cosy but a bit maze-like, with narrow corridors leading to different rooms and an upstairs space often used for events or meetings. The walls are lined with old photographs, posters and bits of Leeds memorabilia, giving it a strong sense of local history.
On the bar a fantastic line up of 5 cask ales, a couple of hand pull ciders and a great range of keg beers. I went for “Fenton Bitter” from Kirkstall Brewery. Their house beer which is a well balanced, malty and full of flavour English Bitter.
Leeds
I had some time before and after the tour to explore a few pubs in Leeds, some I have visited before alongside a few new ones. Check out my larger blog of Leeds Pubs HERE from a few months ago. I have just included the pubs I did not visit last time below.
Northern Market
The Northern Market in Leeds sits in a 140-year-old Grade II-listed building on Great George Street, right in the heart of the city. Built in the late 1800s during Leeds’ big civic boom, the place has had plenty of lives — from community spaces to the much-loved Assembly Underground. In 2023, Northern Monk took it over and gave it a fresh new purpose, keeping the building’s beautiful old features while turning it into a lively social and creative spot. It’s a great example of how Leeds mixes its rich history with a modern use.
Walking into The Northern Market feels like stepping into old Leeds with a modern twist. The space keeps its original Victorian character — high ceilings, stone walls, and a bit of that cool underground feel — but it’s been brought right up to date. The mix of wood, metal, and soft lighting gives it a warm, laid-back vibe, while hand-painted signs and little design details hint at its history. It’s the kind of place that feels both stylish and relaxed.
On the bar a range of 9 keg beers, including a number from Northern Monk. I went for “A Little Faith” from Northern Monk. A fantastic super hazy, tasty and juicy Session IPA. Full of flavour and very easy drinking.
North Bar
North Bar opened in 1997 on New Briggate and is often credited as the UK’s first craft beer bar. Founded by John Gyngell and Christian Townsley, it helped spark a wave of independent venues across Leeds. Its success led to the opening of more North Bars and, later, the launch of North Brewing Co. in 2015. While the brewery side has since changed ownership, the original bar remains independently run by its founders.
North Bar has a compact, open-plan layout with wooden floors, exposed brickwork, and a long central bar. The interior features colourful artwork, simple wooden furniture, and low lighting. Seating includes bar stools, small tables, and a few window spots overlooking New Briggate. The décor blends modern and retro elements, reflecting its late-1990s origins. Music plays at a moderate level, and the atmosphere is relaxed but lively, especially on evenings and weekends.
On the bar a selection of 3 cask ales, alongside an impressive keg selection to choose from.
Rinse
Rinse Natural Wine opened in spring 2025 at 9 Call Lane, Leeds. It was founded by Gemma and Elis Williams, who also run Bottle Chop and Fika North. The name “Rinse” nods to neighbouring Blue Rinse Vintage, a long-standing vintage clothing shop still trading on Call Lane. The bar focuses on natural, low-intervention wines served by the bottle and on tap, alongside small plates, charcuterie, and cheese. It occupies a relaxed space designed for informal drinking and socialising.
You walk in and it just feels easy — warm lighting, wooden touches, and that nice low buzz of people chatting. It’s got a laid-back vibe, kind of minimal but still cosy, like someone’s living room if they were really into wine and good tunes. The bar’s the main area, with a few cosy corners if you want to tuck away with mates. Nothing fancy or fussy — just a cool, comfortable space that feels instantly welcoming and unpretentious. The kind of place you wander into for one drink and end up staying for a few.
On the bar a range of keg beers to choose from (and of course lots of wine). I went for “Steady Rolling Man” from DEYA Brewing Company. A fantastic New England IPA. A super hoppy, hazy and tasty beer.
Micropub Adventures 