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A Day Drinking My Way Through Edinburgh
I spent the day hopping around some great pubs in Edinburgh, each with its own vibe. I kicked things off at Salt Horse for some laid-back craft beer, then headed to the cosy, music-filled Sandy Bell’s. Bow Bar and The Halfway House had that classic old-school Edinburgh charm, and The Jolly Judge felt like a friendly little hideaway. The Blue Blazer and The Hanging Bat mixed tradition with some cracking modern beers. After stops at the chilled-out Teuchters and the lively Fierce Bar, I wrapped things up at the grand Guildford Arms and the Café Royal. Plenty of good pints all round.
Edinburgh’s story goes way back, starting with ancient folk living up on Castle Rock. Over time it grew into Scotland’s capital, with the castle on one end of the Royal Mile and the palace on the other. The city’s seen a bit of everything — battles, fires, drama, and a whole wave of ideas during the 18th-century Enlightenment that made it famous for science and philosophy. Then came the smart Georgian New Town, giving it that classic split between old and new. These days, Edinburgh mixes all that history with festivals, culture, and its own unmistakable charm.
Salt Horse Beer Shop & Bar
My first visit in Edinburgh was to Salt Horse Beer Shop & Bar. Salt Horse Beer Shop & Bar opened in 2016 on Blackfriars Street, taking over the former Blackfriars Bar. The building has older roots, originally part of a traditional stone property with a ground-floor shop typical of Edinburgh’s historic centre. Over the years, the site evolved from retail and lodging to a restaurant, and now to a laid-back craft beer spot. Today, Salt Horse blends specialist beer knowledge with an easygoing vibe, offering rotating taps, shelves of bottles and cans, and casual food. It represents a modern chapter in the long and varied life of a historic city-centre building.
Inside Salt Horse Beer Shop & Bar, the atmosphere is relaxed and unpretentious. The bar area has a stripped-back, industrial feel with wooden tables, exposed brick, and soft lighting that keeps things cosy without feeling cramped. Chalkboards list the rotating beers on tap, and fridges along the wall are stocked with cans and bottles from around the world. The bottle shop is located next door.
A fantastic line up on the bar showcasing 14 keg lines with a wide variety of strengths and styles to choose from. I went with “Totem of Skulls” from Holy Goat Brewing. A bright red cherry sour and it’s lovely. Jammy, sweet and sour. Loads of berry flavour, cherry-drop vibes and a tiny bitter kick that keeps me going back.
Sandy Bell’s
A quick 10 minute walk brought me next to Sandy Bell’s. Sandy Bell’s, which used to be called The Forrest Hill Bar, has been a go-to spot for folk music lovers in Edinburgh since the 1940s. It started off as a regular pub, but soon became a hangout for students, poets, and musicians who’d show up for spontaneous jam sessions. By the ’60s and ’70s, it was buzzing with the folk revival — fiddles, guitars, and plenty of beer. Not much has changed since then, really. It’s still got that cosy, lively vibe where locals and visitors crowd in for tunes, chatter, and a proper pint.
Inside Sandy Bell’s, the space is compact with a single bar and wooden floors. The walls are decorated with photographs, posters, and memorabilia from decades of folk music sessions. There are limited tables and seating, encouraging a close, social atmosphere. Live traditional music is played most nights by local and visiting musicians. The pub is known for its wide selection of whiskies and ales. It attracts a mix of regulars, students, and tourists. The layout and décor have remained largely unchanged over the years, maintaining a traditional Scottish pub feel focused on music and conversation rather than modern features.
On the bar a choice of 6 cask ales, which was a nice mix of breweries and styles, along with a keg beer selection. In here I went with “The Gloaming” from Loch Lochmond Brewery. Dark, smooth, and a bit chocolatey. First sip feels cosy and mellow, with a little sweetness and a tiny bitter kick at the end. Just an easy, tasty beer to relax with.
Bow Bar
Another short walk brought me next to Bow Bar. The Bow Bar on West Bow looks like it’s been pulling pints for centuries, but its story is a bit more layered. The bulding dates to around 1863, when Victoria Street was filled with little shops and tradesmen. A pub arrived not long after, and it was already known as the Bow Bar in the 1940s. The name disappeared during later decades as the site cycled through themed bars, cafés, and even a brief stint as a clothing shop, before returning in the late ’80s when Iain White restored both the name and the traditional look that fits so naturally into the historic curve of the street. The timeless “old Edinburgh” charm is, in truth, a clever bit of modern history.
Inside, the Bow Bar feels like stepping back in time. It’s a small, wood-panelled space with a long polished bar, old mirrors, and simple wooden tables that give it a warm, lived-in feel. The buzz of conversation fills the room, and the sound of the door swinging open to admit another regular adds to its rhythm. Light from the big front windows catches the brass fittings and dark wood, making it feel cosy even on a grey Edinburgh day. It’s the kind of place where you can settle in easily and lose track of time without meaning to.
On the bar a cracking line up of beers with 8 cask ales to choose from along with a range of keg beers, a number being from local breweries. I went with “Nomad Pale – Riwaka” from Campervan Brewery. A delicious and easy drinking single hopped pale ale, packed with flavour.
The Halfway House
Onto The Halfway House next. The Halfway House sits at 24 Fleshmarket Close, right on the old medieval lane that once held Edinburgh’s butcher market. It’s perched about halfway up the steep climb from Market Street to the Royal Mile, which is exactly where its name comes from. Fleshmarket Close has been a busy link between the lower and upper parts of the city for centuries, and the pub happens to be tucked into this historic route. These days it’s also known for being one of the smallest pubs in Edinburgh.
The Halfway House is a small, cosy pub with a low ceiling and a tight, one-room layout, with tables and stools set close together . It has a curved booth in one corner, which is one of the few larger seating spots inside . The walls are covered with railway-style decorations and old signs, which have been part of its look for years.
Drinks wise a selection of 3 cask ales alongside a choice of keg beers. “Strata-Sphere” from Stewart Brewing was my choice of beer. A super hazy and juicy New England IPA hopped with Strata, Superdelic, Galaxy and Krush hops.
The Jolly Judge
Up next was The Jolly Judge where I met up with Jenny and Kenny from Real Ale Finder App. The Jolly Judge is a cosy pub tucked away off Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, beneath the historic Writers’ Court. Housed in part of a 16th-century building, it takes its name from the judges who once lived nearby when the city’s courts were just around the corner. The area was long associated with Edinburgh’s legal and literary life, with writers, lawyers, and locals mingling in the surrounding closes. Though the pub itself is a more recent addition, its setting and name pay tribute to centuries of history woven into the heart of the Old Town.
The Jolly Judge has low ceilings, wooden beams, and old stone walls that give it a warm, historic feel. There are wooden tables and benches tucked into cosy corners, and a fireplace that keeps things snug when it’s cold outside. The walls are covered with old photos, maps, and bits of Edinburgh history, all adding to the charm. The lighting is soft and welcoming, and the place has an easy, relaxed vibe. It’s the kind of spot that feels friendly and unpretentious, perfect for chatting with friends or just taking a quiet moment away from the busy streets.
4 cask ales on the bar to tempt you, along with a great variety of keg beers and a brilliant selection of Real Cider. I opted to go with “Hit The Lip” from Cromarty Brewing Co. A very easy drinking session beer, packed with some nice juicy flavours. A great beer.
The Blue Blazer
Around a 10 minute walk brought myself and Real Ale Finder App to The Blue Blazer. The Blue Blazer’s been around since the late 1800s, starting out as a working man’s pub near the old meat market in Edinburgh. Over the years, it’s built a loyal crowd of locals and visitors who come for proper pints and good chat. It’s known for great real ales and whiskies, and even as the city’s changed, the place has kept its old-school charm. More than a century on, the Blue Blazer’s still a laid-back spot where the drinks — and the stories — never stop flowing.
Inside the Blue Blazer, it’s all about old Edinburgh charm. The place has dark wooden panelling, low ceilings, and soft, golden lighting that gives it a warm, timeless feel. The bar area is polished and traditional, with mirrors and vintage details that hint at its long history. There are cosy corners, sturdy tables, and little touches like framed prints and brass fittings that add character. It’s the kind of space that feels welcoming the moment you walk in — simple, classic, and full of that easy-going, lived-in atmosphere you only get from a place that’s been around for generations.
A brilliant line up on the bar showcasing 7 cask ales, along with a cider and a number of keg beers to choose from. A collaboration beer between Fyne Ales and Burning Sky Brewery was my beer choice. “Longview” was a fantastic IPA, full of hoppy flavour from Centennial, Columbus, Chinook and Comet hops.
The Hanging Bat
Just down the road to my third pub with Jenny and Kenny from Real Ale Finder App which was to The Hanging Bat. The Hanging Bat opened on Lothian Road back in 2012, taking over what used to be Uluru. It was started by a bunch of local beer fans who basically wanted to bring proper craft beer to Edinburgh at a time when it was pretty thin on the ground. They loaded the place with rotating taps, stuck a tiny brewery in the basement, and started putting on tasting nights and collabs with big names from around the UK. Over the years it’s turned into a bit of a go-to spot for anyone who likes good beer and a relaxed atmosphere—one of the places that helped kick off the city’s whole craft beer scene.
Then in 2025, Northern Monk Brewing Company from Leeds took it over—their first venue in Scotland. From what’s been said, they’re keeping things pretty much as they are for now and just giving the place a bit of love while keeping its original character.
Inside, The Hanging Bat has that cool, slightly scruffy vibe that feels welcoming the second you walk in. Think exposed brick, dark wood, and low lighting that gives everything a proper cosy glow. The bar runs along one wall, with mismatched tables and stools dotted around. There are chalkboards, little bat-themed touches, and quirky bits everywhere, but nothing feels forced. It’s laid-back, stylish without trying too hard, and full of those little corners where you can just settle in with a pint. The whole place just has an easy-going, characterful feel—very “Edinburgh hangout” in the best way.
17 keg lines to choose from showcasing a variety of both styles and strengths, along with a still cider, plus a great range of cans and bottles. I went with “Too Much Pie” from Duckpond Brewing. A fab quadruple fruited Gose packed with Raspberry, Blueberry, Cherry, Rhubarb, Lime, Blackcurrant & Vanilla.
Teuchters Bar & Bunker
Another walk of around 10 minutes (not so great in the rain and wind) brings me to Teuchters. Teuchters Bar & Bunker has been a West End favourite since 2001, tucked away at 26 William Street. It followed the success of Teuchters Landing in Leith, bringing the same laid-back, down-to-earth vibe to the city centre. The name “Teuchters” is a cheeky nod to Highlanders, showing off its Scottish humour and character. Upstairs you’ve got Teuchters itself, while the Bunker downstairs is a cosy little hideout. Both have that easy-going feel that’s made the place a go-to spot for locals and visitors looking for a proper Edinburgh welcome.
Inside Teuchters Bar & Bunker, the upstairs bar has a simple, rustic look with wooden floors, whisky barrel tables, and plenty of space to gather. It’s bright and lively, often filled with locals and visitors. Downstairs, the Bunker has a more relaxed, tucked-away feel with low ceilings, quirky touches, and a cosier setup. There’s a mix of booth seating and casual tables, giving it an easy-going atmosphere. Both levels keep things unfussy and welcoming, staying true to the pub’s down-to-earth style that fits right in with the friendly West End crowd.
A choice of 5 cask ales on the bar to choose from, along with a range of keg options. “Dark Munro” from Swannay Brewery was my beer choice. A lovely refreshing dark beer which was really light and sweet with some lovely aromas of coffee.
Fierce Bar Edinburgh
Heading back in the direction of Waverley Station brings me to Fierce Bar Edinburgh / Fierce Beer. Fierce Bar Edinburgh comes from Fierce Beer, a small Aberdeen brewery started in 2015 by two homebrewers, Dave Grant and Andy Stewart. What began as a side project quickly took off thanks to their bold ideas and energy. After opening their first bar in Aberdeen in 2018, they brought the same spirit to Edinburgh, setting up a spot that reflected the brewery’s down-to-earth, creative vibe. The Edinburgh bar became a big part of Fierce’s story — showing how a tiny local venture grew into one of Scotland’s most talked-about craft breweries with plenty of personality and passion behind it.
Fierce Bar Edinburgh has a cool, industrial look with exposed brick, dark wood, and pops of neon that give it a bit of character. The main bar runs along the centre, with high tables and cosy booths tucked around the edges. Chalkboards show what’s on and what’s coming up, and there’s plenty of Fierce artwork on the walls. It’s not a huge place, but it’s got a lively, easy-going feel.
A keg line up showcasing 20 lines, a great mix of styles and strengths, alongside a couple of fridges packed full of cans to drink in or takeaway. I chose to go with their own “Fierce Iron Brew”. A delicious sweet and sparkling Iron Brew, but alcoholic. A very tasty beer.
Guildford Arms
Back towards Waverley Station for my last 2 visits which are next to each other. The first is Guildford Arms. The Guildford Arms has been part of Edinburgh life since 1896, built for the Stewart family, who were big names in the city’s pub scene. Designed by Robert Macfarlane Cameron, it popped up at a time when the temperance movement was trying to make drinking less fashionable, so the Guildford went the other way—grand, confident, and proud of it. Through wars, city changes, and new drinking trends, it’s stayed in the same family and kept its place just off Princes Street. More than a century later, it’s still a familiar name in Edinburgh’s pub history, with plenty of stories behind it.
Inside, the Guildford Arms has that old-school Edinburgh charm that just feels right. There’s polished wood everywhere, stained glass catching the light, and a cracking plaster ceiling that makes you look up as soon as you walk in. The bar’s big and friendly, usually buzzing with locals and visitors swapping stories over a pint. Old mirrors and pictures give it that proper lived-in feel, like it’s seen a lot of good nights. Even though it’s right in the middle of the city, it’s laid-back and welcoming — the kind of place you pop in for one and end up staying longer.
A fantastic line up of 10 cask ales on the bar, along with a wide variety of keg options to choose from. Spotted a new brewery for me on the bar, “Newt Brew”. So I went with the “Night Porter” from them. A fantastic porter which was dark, smooth and chocolatey.
The Cafe Royal
Last up was next door to The Cafe Royal. The Café Royal in Edinburgh has been around since the 1860s, originally part of a grand hotel complex. It quickly became one of the city’s favourite meeting spots, drawing in everyone from journalists and politicians to everyday locals looking for a good pint. The place has seen plenty over the years—from Victorian socialites to modern-day pub-goers—and somehow it’s managed to stay both elegant and down-to-earth. It’s survived changing times, kept its charm, and remains one of those classic Edinburgh pubs where history feels alive but never stuffy.
Inside the Café Royal, it’s like stepping into old Edinburgh with a pint in hand. The place has a real charm—big ceilings, polished wood, and a beautiful circular bar that’s always got a bit of buzz around it. There are colourful stained glass windows and tiled murals that nod to old inventors, adding a bit of character without feeling over the top. The lighting’s warm, the atmosphere’s lively but laid-back, and it somehow feels both grand and cosy at the same time. It’s the kind of place where you can settle in easily and lose track of the hours.
A range of 7 cask ales on the bar (some duplicated on the other side), along with a great variety of other options. I finished the day with “Sin Bin Ale” from Broughton Ales. A very easy drinking, tasty and refreshing Blonde Ale.
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