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Exploring Berwick’s Best Pubs in a Day
I travelled from Newcastle to Berwick with Zac for my first visit in years. I stopped at Bear Claw Brewery in Spittal, enjoying their relaxed taproom and sampling all four beers on. Back in Berwick I visited The Curfew, Atelier, Barrels Ale House, Foxtons, the Brown Bear, the Free Trade and the Pilot Inn. Each place had its own character, from historic pubs to creative modern spots, and I enjoyed a different beer in every one. It was a full, relaxed day wandering between great pubs, trying excellent ales and taking in the town’s charm. A thoroughly enjoyable trip.
Berwick-upon-Tweed has a surprisingly lively backstory for such a calm spot. Right on the England–Scotland border, it swapped hands more times than anyone wants to count, mainly because it was an important medieval port. All that back-and-forth left it with impressive Elizabethan walls, which are still great for a wander today. Once the fighting settled down, Berwick eased into being a quieter market and garrison town through the 18th and 19th centuries. Now it’s known for its lovely mix of old buildings, coastal views and bits of history that pop up wherever you go.
Bear Claw Brewery
I headed up from Newcastle to Berwick along with Zac, somewhere I have not been for 4 years. I took the B1 bus over the bridge to nearby Spittal to visit Bear Claw Brewery. Bear Claw Brewery, tucked away in Spittal near Berwick-upon-Tweed, has been doing its thing since 2012. It started out small, brewing cask and bottle-conditioned ales on a two-barrel setup. These days, they’ve made a name for themselves by fermenting all their beers in old oak wine barrels — everything from pale ales to stouts and saisons — and giving them a good few weeks to mature. You can drop by their taproom at the Meantime Workshops to try what’s fresh; it’s open every Saturday and on the first Wednesday of each month.
Inside Bear Claw’s taproom, the vibe’s easy-going and unpretentious. You’ll find wooden tables, barrels stacked around, and a team who genuinely love chatting about what they brew. It’s the kind of place where you can settle in, try something new, and feel right at home. There’s outdoor seating too — dogs welcome — which makes it great for a sunny afternoon. It’s less “fancy bar” and more “friendly local spot” where good beer and good conversation come naturally.
On the bar a range of 3 cask ales (pale, bitter and porter), alongside a keg Saison. I sampled all of their beers that were on offer, “Daylight”, “Curmudgeon”, “The Fool” and “Dark Hollow”. All were super tasty and enjoyed them all.
The Curfew
Back on the bus to Berwick and onto The Curfew. The Curfew Micropub opened in 2014 on Bridge Street in Berwick-upon-Tweed, set up by Gemma and David Cook. It’s tucked down a little lane and fits perfectly with the classic micropub idea — one cosy room, good cask ales, and proper chat instead of music or TVs. The place used to be a bedsit before being turned into a welcoming spot for beer lovers. Since opening, it’s picked up plenty of praise, including being named Northumberland Pub of the Year by CAMRA in 2017. It’s now a firm favourite with locals and visitors alike.
Inside The Curfew, it’s small, warm, and full of charm. Wooden floors, simple tables, and a few mismatched chairs give it that easy, lived-in feel. There’s a long wooden bench along one wall, with a few framed prints and chalkboards that add character without overdoing it. The lighting’s soft, the vibe’s relaxed, and it feels a bit like stepping into a friend’s cosy front room. Out the back, there’s a little courtyard that’s perfect for some fresh air or a quiet chat when the weather’s decent. It’s the kind of place that just feels right as soon as you walk in.
A great selection of drinks to choose from with 4 cask ales, a number of keg options, a nice variety of bottled and BIB ciders and a choice of bottles and cans. Some great local snacks on the bar also including a delicious Cheese, Leek and Thyme quiche. I went with “Pint” from Marble Beers. A super easy drinking, refreshing and tasty Session Bitter.
Atelier
Over the road to Atelier. Atelier opened in 2017 in the restored Cowe Buildings at 41–43 Bridge Street, Berwick-upon-Tweed. The team had first started out further along the street in 2012, before moving here after the building’s renovation. Set on one of Berwick’s oldest streets, the building’s past links the town’s trading days with its modern creative energy. Set on one of Berwick’s oldest streets, the building’s past links the town’s trading days with its modern creative energy.
Step inside Atelier and it feels instantly warm and easy-going. There’s a mix of old and new — exposed brick, polished wood, soft lighting and bits of vintage décor that give it plenty of character without trying too hard. The space feels open but still cosy, with quiet corners for a chat and a buzz around the bar when it’s busy. Artwork, mirrors and quirky details make it feel lived-in and creative, like somewhere that’s grown naturally over time. It’s relaxed, stylish in a low-key way, and just a really nice spot to spend an evening.
On the bar a choice of 2 cask ales along with a range of keg options to choose from. Some delicious looking food, platters and small plates coming out of the kitchen. In here I opted to go for “As You Were” from Hadrian Border Brewery. A fantastic Best Bitter which was malty, well balanced and very enjoyable.
Barrels Ale House
A short stroll brought me to Barrels Ale House. The Barrels Ale House in Berwick-upon-Tweed sits in an old 18th-century building on Bridge Street, near the historic bridge over the River Tweed. It started life as a wine and spirits merchant’s place before turning into a proper ale house serving locals and travellers. The pub took on its current name and style in the late 20th century, keeping alive Berwick’s long connection with brewing. Over the years it’s picked up a few local CAMRA awards and become known as one of Northumberland’s best spots for real ale, with a laid-back charm rooted in Berwick’s trading history.
Inside, The Barrels Ale House has that proper old-pub vibe — cosy, a bit worn-in, and full of charm. The main bar’s got low ceilings, wooden beams and a jumble of tables and chairs that make it feel instantly welcoming. There’s always a friendly mix of locals and visitors chatting over pints of real ale. Head downstairs and you’ll find the cellar bar, where live bands and open-mic nights keep things lively. It’s relaxed, unpretentious and a bit rough around the edges in the best way — the kind of place where you pop in for one drink and stay for three.
A great selection of 5 cask ales on the bar to choose from along with a draught selection of beers. “Citra” from Oakham Ales was my selection of beer. A delicious citrusy Session IPA. Packed with great flavour and very enjoyable.
Foxtons Wine Bar & Restaurant
Next was a short walk to Hide Hill for my next 2 visits, the first being to Foxtons Wine Bar & Restaurant. Foxtons sits at 26–28 Hide Hill in the heart of Berwick-upon-Tweed’s old town. The building’s been Grade II listed since 1971 and still shows off its late-Georgian charm, with stone walls, sash windows and an old-style shopfront that fits right in with the rest of Hide Hill. The street itself has long linked the town centre to the quays, once busy with merchants and traders. In the early 2010s, new owners took over a tired wine bar and turned it into Foxtons. A few careful updates in 2024 helped keep the place looking great while protecting its historic character.
Inside Foxtons, it’s got a relaxed, welcoming feel that mixes old and new. The original building’s character shows through in its high ceilings, exposed stone and big sash windows that let in loads of light. There’s a mix of cosy tables, wooden floors, and simple, modern touches that make it feel stylish without trying too hard. You’ll spot bits of local artwork on the walls and soft lighting that keeps things comfortable day or night. It’s the kind of place that works just as well for a quiet catch-up as it does for a lively evening out in Berwick.
On the bar in here a selection of 2 cask ales and a range of keg options. I opted to go with “Stella Spark” from Firebrick Brewery. A refreshing and easy drinking Blonde Ale.
The Brown Bear
Over the road brings me to The Brown Bear. The Brown Bear on Hide Hill in Berwick-upon-Tweed has been around for centuries and is one of the town’s best-known pubs. It first shows up in records from 1806, when a man named Joseph Brown was running it, though the building itself is probably much older. The “bear and tree” symbol linked to the site goes back as far as the 1200s. Over the years, the place grew, taking in nearby rooms and yards, and got a big refit in the 1960s. After closing for a while, it was brought back to life in 2016 thanks to a local community effort.
Inside the Brown Bear on Hide Hill, the look is a blend of classic and modern. It keeps its old wooden floors, warm lighting, and sturdy bar, giving it that proper pub feel. The front area feels snug and traditional, while the back opens up with newer seating and a lighter, more open layout. The décor is simple but characterful, with exposed brickwork and a few nods to its long history. It’s been refurbished over the years, but it still feels genuine — a place that’s clearly been part of Berwick life for a long time.
2 cask ales available on the bar, alongside a range of keg options to choose from. “Twin Coast” from Sharp’s Brewery was my beer choice. A very easy drinking, sessionable and refreshing Pale Ale.
The Free Trade
Back up Castlegate towards the Railway Station brings me next to The Free Trade. The Free Trade Inn in Berwick-upon-Tweed has been serving locals since 1847, when it was built on Castlegate during the town’s 19th-century expansion. Named to celebrate the era’s Free Trade movement, which promoted open commerce and reform, it became a popular stop for workers and travellers arriving by the nearby railway. Over the years, it’s seen Berwick shift from a bustling border port to a quieter market town, yet the pub has remained a constant meeting place. Despite small updates around 1900, its heritage has endured, making it one of Berwick’s longest-running and most historically significant public houses.
Inside the Free Trade Inn, there’s a lovely historic feel that hits you as soon as you step through the door. The snug bar still has its original early 20th-century wood panelling, stained glass windows, and tiled frontage — all features noted by Historic England and CAMRA as part of its rare, well-preserved interior. It’s a place where time seems to have paused, with soft light, gentle chatter, and the comforting scent of ale replacing any need for modern flash. Cosy, unpretentious, and full of history, it’s the sort of pub where you settle in and instantly feel at home.
A single cask ale on today (served from a hand pull which has been there since 1957 – seen on my photo of the beer being pulled), alongside a range of keg choices. The beer was “Tyneside Blonde” from Hadrian Border Brewery. A super tasty, refreshing and full of flavour Blonde Ale.
The Pilot Inn
Last cal of the day was to The Pilot Inn which was a short walk away. The Pilot Inn in Berwick-upon-Tweed sits at 31 Low Greens, a stone-built end-terrace pub that’s been part of the town since the 19th century. Built in the 1800s, it’s a classic bit of Berwick architecture, with weathered stone and a coastal charm that fits its setting by the sea. A photograph from 1916—now hanging inside the pub—shows the building after it was enlarged, with etched glass panels flanking the entrance that still reflect its early-20th-century style.
Inside, the Pilot Inn feels like stepping back in time. It’s cosy and traditional, with a proper old-school bar and small rooms that give it a homely, local vibe. The décor leans toward the nautical—fitting for its name—with maritime photos, ship wheels and fishing relics dotted around. There’s a lived-in warmth to the place, helped by its polished wood, low ceilings and soft lighting. Locals chat easily at the bar, and visitors often end up staying longer than planned. It’s the sort of pub where you can sit by the window with a pint and just watch the world go by.
A selection of 2 cask ales on the bar alongside a selection of draught keg options. I went with “Abbots Best” from Firebrick Brewery. A lovely well balanced and easy drinking Dark Ale.
Cheers to Zac for joining me on my day out to Berwick today, a very enjoyable day!
