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One Town, Many Pints: Getting Happily Lost in Todmorden
Tuesday in Todmorden ended up being a really easy, laid-back wander from pub to pub, with each place having its own little personality. The Market Tavern felt like a cosy hideout in the middle of the market, while The Alehouse was the sort of place you pop into and accidentally stay for ages. The Fox was warm and relaxed, the Golden Lion had a great buzz about it, and Nan Moor’s was quirky and full of charm. Beer Necessities finished things off perfectly with good beer and comfy seating. Nothing rushed, nothing flashy — just good pubs, good drinks and a very enjoyable day out.
Todmorden sits right on the old Lancashire–Yorkshire border, which kind of explains its stubborn, independent streak. It started out as a small market town, then boomed during the Industrial Revolution when cotton mills, canals and the railway rolled in. Like a lot of places, things got tougher when the mills closed, but the town never really lost its character. Over time it’s reinvented itself, leaning into community projects, creativity and doing things differently. These days Todmorden feels proud of its past without being stuck in it — resilient, friendly and quietly doing its own thing.
The Market Tavern
Tuesday took me to Todmorden and my first visit here was to Tod Market Tavern. The Market Tavern is a compact pub located inside Todmorden’s indoor market hall in West Yorkshire. It opened in October 2019, created from a small market unit, and later grew in size by taking over the adjacent stall. It sits within the Victorian indoor market, a structure built in 1879 as part of Todmorden’s expanding commercial centre. Known for its friendly, informal setting, it provides seating and shelter at the heart of the market and has become a social space for locals and visitors. The pub is also known for hosting Saturday bingo and occasional community-focused events.
Inside The Market Tavern, the space is compact and cosy, with long wooden tables and benches arranged close together, creating an easy, communal feel. Textured green walls framed with warm wood add character, while fairy lights and patterned curtains soften the edges and give the seating area a snug, enclosed atmosphere. Coasters are neatly set out, cushions add comfort, and the whole space has a relaxed, welcoming charm. Even though it sits in the middle of the market, once you take a seat it feels like a warm little hideaway — the sort of place where time slows down and you can linger without thinking about it.
On the bar a choice of 3 cask ales, along with a selection of keg options. I went with “Reedley Gold” from Reedley Hallows Brewery Co. A delicious Blonde Ale, very refreshing and full of flavour. Make sure you call next door and check out the Cheese Stall next door, which has a fantastic selection to choose from along with friendly service.
The Alehouse
Next up was The Alehouse. The Alehouse in Todmorden is a tiny micropub on Burnley Road, opened in the late 2010s after the building, once used as a shop and later a restaurant, was transformed into a small, laid-back space for people to gather and talk. It follows the modern micropub idea of keeping things simple: one cosy room, a warm welcome, and space for local art on the walls. Since opening, it’s earned a good reputation and even picked up CAMRA Pub of the Season (Winter 2021/22), marking it out as one of the area’s well-loved independent spots.
Inside, it’s a small, cosy space with a mix of chairs, little tables, and a comfy sofa set against the brick wall. Light comes in through the front windows, where a couple of seats make a great spot for people-watching. The whole place feels chilled and friendly, with simple artwork, plants, and bits of décor that make it feel personal rather than polished. The seating is scattered in a way that feels natural, like you can just drop in, grab a drink, and make yourself at home. It’s warm, welcoming and easy-going — the sort of spot you just end up staying longer in than planned.
A fantastic warm welcome from Jackie when I arrived. Drinks wise a great line up of 5 cask ales to choose from ranging in style, along with a nice selection of keg options. I chose to go with “Wen Sleigh D’Ale” from Wensleydale Brewery. A easy drinking, tasty and well balanced Blonde Ale.
The Fox
Heading back down the road brings me next to The Fox. The Fox, at 5–9 Water Street in central Todmorden, sits in a building best known locally as The Pub for many years – a simple name that became part of its charm. It grew out of Todmorden’s growing wave of small independent bars, becoming a familiar spot for locals and visitors. In October 2024, after the long-standing owners retired, the venue changed hands and adopted its new name, The Fox. The change marked a fresh chapter rather than a full break – the building remains a sociable little gathering place, reflecting the town’s strong community spirit and independent streak.
Inside, it’s warm and relaxed, with stone walls, wooden floors and cushions along the benches. Small tables are set close together, keeping things social. There’s a long window seat at the front looking out onto Water Street, ideal for watching passers-by with a pint in hand. A stack of board games rests by the fireplace, adding to the easy-going feel. It’s the sort of place you can settle into without any fuss – simple, homely and properly welcoming.
A great selection on the bar with 6 cask lines and 15 keg lines, offering a fantastic range of styles and strengths, with more choices available in cans and bottles. I went with “Hardcastle Crags IPA” from Trail Brew Co. A superb juicy and hazy New England IPA packed full of flavour.
The Golden Lion
Next up was The Golden Lion. The Golden Lion in Todmorden dates back to the 1800s and was once tied to local brewing interests. It stood empty after serious flooding and looked like it might be forgotten, until it was taken on and brought back to life in 2015. Since then, it’s gone from a quiet, unused pub to one of the town’s busiest spots, known for live music, DJs and community events. Today, it’s as much a cultural hangout as it is a place to grab a drink.
Inside, the Golden Lion has a relaxed, lived-in charm. There are wooden tables, retro red chairs and loads of gig posters that make it feel fun and welcoming. The main space has a log burner, fairy lights and a small stage, so you can tell it’s built for great nights out. There’s also an upstairs area used for gigs and late events, which adds to its community, music-first feel. It’s super laid-back during the day, and when the music starts, it quickly shifts into a lively, buzzing place to be.
A great selection on the bar of 6 cask ales to choose from in a range of styles, along with a range of keg beers. My choice was “The Eagle of Kindness” from Eagles Crag Brewery. A delicious Session IPA, very well balanced and some great hoppy flavours coming from the Mosaic and Centennial hops used.
Nan Moor’s
Over the road from The Golden Lion is Nan Moor’s. Nan Moor’s is a laid-back bar and venue on Rochdale Road in Todmorden, tucked into what used to be a tattoo parlour by the canal. It’s known for its quirky, welcoming feel — the kind of spot where you can wander in, join a folk night or catch a bit of low-key live music, and stay as long as you like. The name nods to Nan Moor, a figure from local moorland folklore who, according to tradition, lived on the high moors above Todmorden with her partner Jack Stone in a rock “house” among the Bridestones and were seen as the guardians of the stones. Locals still tell tales of this couple and their strange adventures on the windswept moorland, part of the area’s rich tapestry of myths connected to the natural rock formations above town.
Inside it is a warm, inviting little bar full of charm. The space is compact and quirky, with small cosy seating areas on two levels, copper-topped tables, and cushions tucked into wooden booths. The bar is packed with interesting cans and bottles, handwritten chalkboards, and colourful decorations that give it a fun, welcoming feel. It’s intimate in the best way, perfect for relaxed drinks with friends. Out the back, there’s a covered outdoor area right beside the canal, ideal for a fresh-air break. They also host folk nights and small evening events, adding to the friendly atmosphere.
On the bar 2 cask ales served straight from the barrel, alongside a keg selection and a nice choice of real ciders. Even more choices available in bottle and can from the fridge. I went with a stunning Imperial Porter aged in Red Wine Barrels. “Stanlius Caesar” from Torrside Brewery. Some fantastic flavours from this beer and it was certainly one to savour.
Beer Necessities
Last up in Todmorden was to Beer Necessities. Beer Necessities is a cosy craft beer spot on Water Street in Todmorden, opening its doors in September 2024. It took over a small old shop unit at number 17, giving it a fresh lease of life with a warm, pint-friendly makeover. Water Street itself has long been part of Todmorden’s trading heart — once known as Shop Lane — and packed with small local businesses since at least the 18th century. Before Beer Necessities arrived, the building had housed an assortment of indie shops over the years.
Walking in, it just feels relaxed – kind of like popping round to a mate’s living room, only everything’s a bit nicer. The wooden floors and chunky tables make it feel warm, and the green bench seats with orange cushions are surprisingly comfy. There are colourful prints on the walls and fairy lights around the windows, which make it feel really cosy once it gets dark. Tables are spread out enough that you’re not on top of anyone, and there are a few window seats if you want to sit and people-watch. There’s even a little quieter spot at the back if you want to hide away for a bit.
Drinks wise on the bar a selection of 4 cask lines and 14 keg lines to choose from, showcasing a variety of styles. I went with “Mydera” from Squawk Brewing Company. It was a light, easy-drinking pale ale and very sessionable.
Micropub Adventures 