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Pints Through Medway: From Railway Arches to Wonky Houses
Friday took me across the Thames and Medway area, calling into a fantastic mix of micropubs, brewery taps and independent pubs in Rainham, Gillingham, Strood, Gravesend and Rochester. Along the way I caught up with plenty of familiar faces, enjoyed some great conversations and sampled a wide range of cask ales, ciders and craft beers. Each stop had its own character, from railway arches and vaulted cellars to historic timber-framed buildings and busy brewery taprooms. What really stood out throughout the day was the warm welcome everywhere I visited, with every pub offering something slightly different while still keeping that relaxed, friendly atmosphere that makes these trips so enjoyable.
Rainham, Gillingham, Strood, Gravesend, Rochester and Chatham all grew through their close links to the River Medway and the Thames. Rochester is the oldest, shaped by its Norman castle, cathedral and important position on Watling Street since Roman times. Nearby Chatham became famous for its Royal Dockyard, which helped build and repair naval ships for centuries. Gillingham and Rainham expanded through farming, railways and later London overspill growth during the 20th century. Strood developed as a crossing point over the Medway, while Gravesend became an important river port and gateway to London. Today, the towns remain closely connected by rail, river and shared history.
Rainham
Prince of Ales
Friday saw me start the day in Rainham at Prince of Ales. The Prince of Ales opened on Rainham High Street on 12 March 2016, bringing a micropub to a central spot next to the post office. The premises had previously been a convenience store, so its story is one of a small retail unit being given a new social purpose. The name is a playful twist on “Prince of Wales”, linking a traditional-sounding pub name with its focus on ale. Its opening came during Kent’s wider micropub growth, when former shops were being turned into small, conversation-led pubs. It soon became a well-known local stop in Rainham.
Inside feels compact and friendly, with a layout that makes good use of its former shop space. Wooden benches, stools and tables are arranged closely together around a small central bar, helping keep the atmosphere sociable without feeling cramped. The walls are packed with pump clips, brewery signs, certificates and beer memorabilia, giving the pub plenty of personality and making there always something to look at. Soft fairy lights across the ceiling add a warm glow, while the wood panelling and flooring keep the room feeling relaxed and comfortable. Overall, it feels welcoming, well-used and built around conversation, cask ale and regulars settling in for a pint.
It was great to catch up with Karl again when I arrived. On the bar a great line up of 4 cask ales, a keg pilsner and cider and a range of still ciders. I went for Ruby Tuesday by Kent Brewery, a ruby ale with rich malt flavour and a smooth, rounded finish.
Gillingham
Past & Present
I jumped on the train to Gillingham, and a short walk brought me to Past and Present Ale House. Past & Present began as Medway’s first micropub, originally opening at Skinner Street in 2014 before moving to larger premises on Canterbury Street in 2020. The current site had already been used as a bar, first as One for the Road from 2018, then as the Gin & Tap Room in 2019. When the original Past & Present closed in March 2020, the name and business moved across to Canterbury Street that April. Its history is modern, but it has become an important part of Medway’s micropub story, growing from a small first venture into a more established local ale house.
Inside feels longer and more open than many micropubs, with seating spread through a narrow room that still manages to feel comfortable and sociable. Wooden tables and mixed seating run along both sides, while a raised area at the back adds a bit of extra space away from the main bar. Pale blue-grey walls, framed local pictures and old-style lighting give the pub a relaxed, slightly traditional feel without trying too hard. Softer corners with high tables make it easy to settle in for a quieter drink, while the overall layout still keeps people connected across the room. Overall, it feels friendly, relaxed and comfortably well used by locals.
It was great meeting up with Lorraine again when I arrived here. On the bar a selection of 3 cask ales, a variety of ciders and a couple of draught options. I went for Urbane Gorilla by Hewitt’s, a bitter with rich malt flavour and a smooth, balanced finish.
Strood
10:50 from Victoria
I headed onto Strood next to visit 10:50 from Victoria. 10:50 From Victoria opened in Strood in March 2015, becoming the town’s first micropub. It is set in a railway arch behind North Street, reached through a signed gate and alleyway from the street. The name comes from the arch itself, said to be the 1,050th railway arch from Victoria, giving the pub a strong built-in railway link. It was originally rumoured to be called Strood Emporium, but the railway-inspired name won out. Its story is modern, but the setting gives it a distinctive connection to Strood’s railway past.
It fully embraces its railway setting, with timber-clad walls and a layout that feels more like an old station waiting room tucked beneath the arches. Bench seating runs around much of the room, with chunky wooden tables helping keep the narrow space sociable and comfortable. Railway signs, old clocks, vintage adverts and transport memorabilia cover almost every wall, giving the pub plenty to look at without feeling cluttered. Warm lighting and the low ceiling add to the snug feel, especially on darker evenings. Outside, the large garden spreads out beneath the railway arches with picnic benches, flowers and smaller seating areas creating a surprisingly relaxed space beside the tracks. One unusual touch is the railway signal mounted outside, which is raised whenever the micropub is open and can be seen from quite a distance.
A great line up of 7 cask ales and a selection of Kentish ciders to choose from. I went for Caravan by Pig & Porter, a pale ale with citrus and tropical hop notes and a bright, refreshing finish.
Gravesend
Iron Pier Brewery
I managed a visit in Gravesend to Iron Pier Beer. Iron Pier Brewery was founded in 2017, with the taproom opening soon afterwards on the May Industrial Estate in Northfleet. The brewery takes its name from Gravesend Town Pier, the historic iron pier beside the Thames, and many of its beers are named after local places nearby. Iron Pier helped bring brewing back to the Gravesend and Northfleet area after many years without a local brewery, giving the area a modern independent brewery once again. Tucked away behind Perry Street, the taproom has grown into a popular local spot for fresh cask and keg beer, with a relaxed industrial feel that suits its surroundings.
Inside has a modern industrial feel that keeps the brewery right at the centre of the room. Large stainless steel brewing tanks sit alongside the seating areas, so you are never far from the beer being made. Long wooden tables, benches and high stools give the space a relaxed, communal atmosphere, while warm hanging lights soften the exposed beams, pipework and concrete floors. Artwork and brewery merchandise add colour around the walls without making the room feel cluttered. Big front windows bring in plenty of light, and outside there’s a covered yard with picnic benches that feels relaxed and sociable during warmer weather.
A great warm welcome when I arrived in here. On the bar a range of 6 cask ales, all gravity served alongside a huge selection of craft keg lines. I went for Citrazen Kane by Iron Pier, a pale ale packed with citrus hop flavour and a bright, zesty finish.
The Compass Alehouse
My second visit in Gravesend was to The Compass Ale House – Gravesend’s First Micro Pub. The Compass Alehouse opened on Manor Road in September 2014, becoming Gravesend’s first micropub. The building itself has an interesting history, having previously been used as an estate agency and, much earlier, linked to C.H. Perry’s mineral water and bottle business in the late 19th century. The lion and tower emblem still visible on the front reflects that connection. The name “Compass” came from the idea of direction and guidance, fitting both the owners’ change in career and the pub’s role as a new direction for local beer drinkers. Over time, it has become one of the best-known micropubs in the Gravesend area.
Inside feels compact, busy and full of character, with every corner packed with unusual memorabilia and local touches. Wooden bench seating wraps around much of the room, while tables and chairs are set close together to keep the atmosphere sociable. Maritime items, old maps, regatta boards and framed pictures reflect Gravesend’s river history, mixed in with vintage beer signs, bunting and quirky decorative pieces spread across the walls and ceiling. Lighting is warm and soft, helping the pub feel cosy without being cramped. There’s also a tucked-away outdoor area with decking, chalkboards and nautical touches that carries the same relaxed, slightly eccentric feel as the inside.
It was great catching up with Terry and John again in here. On the bar a choice of 4 cask ales, 4 ciders and 3 keg lines. A great line up. I went for Pale by Kent Brewery, a light pale ale with citrus hop notes and a clean, refreshing finish.
Three Pillars
Next up in Gravesend was to Three Pillars Gravesend. Three Pillars opened beneath the Masonic Hall on Wrotham Road in 2017. It first opened on 1 May, then reopened permanently on 23 June after a licensing delay. The space had previously served as the Masonic Hall’s bar, so unlike many micropubs, it was not a converted shop. Its name links neatly to its Masonic setting, with “three pillars” being a well-known Masonic symbol. Set below street level, it gave an existing social space a new public use. Its story is modern, but strongly tied to the building it sits beneath.
Inside feels more like a tucked-away cellar bar than a typical micropub, with low ceilings, white-painted brickwork and a series of connected rooms beneath the old hall above. Seating ranges from traditional wooden chairs and tables to taller barrel-style tables around the bar, giving different parts of the pub their own character. Warm lamps, fairy lights and old framed pictures create a comfortable, slightly old-fashioned feel, while beer mats covering the ceiling and football scarves above the bar add plenty of personality. One corner features a painted mural hidden beneath an archway, adding to the pub’s quirky atmosphere. Overall, it feels relaxed, friendly and full of small details that reward a look around.
Drinks wise a great line up of 5 cask ales, alongside a great selection of ciders to choose from. I went for Rustic by Tonbridge Brewery, a traditional bitter with biscuit malt flavour and a smooth, rounded finish.
The Mole Hole
My final visit in Gravesend was to The Mole Hole Micro Pub. The Mole Hole opened on Gravesend High Street on 27 July 2019, set inside a vaulted cellar beneath a building that had previously been used as a tattoo parlour, and before that as the Cellar Bar music venue. Its name links to Gravesend Rugby Club, whose nickname is “The Moles”, giving the pub a local sporting connection as well as a playful underground feel. Reached from an upstairs lobby and spiral staircase, it brought new life to a hidden town-centre space. Its story is modern, but rooted in a building already known for music, socialising and nightlife.
Inside combines a modern street-level entrance with the hidden feel of the old cellar bar below. Upstairs has a brighter, more contemporary look, with hanging lights, barrel tables and signs pointing visitors down into the pub itself. Downstairs, the curved brick-vaulted ceilings and painted brick walls give the main room plenty of character, with long wooden tables, bench seating and a compact bar tucked beneath the arches. Warm lighting softens the cellar setting, while pump clips, posters and framed pictures add personal touches throughout. There’s even a small stage area for live music and events, helping the space feel lively without losing its cosy underground atmosphere.
A great warm welcome from Adrian when I arrived in here. On the bar a selection of 3 cask ales, a couple of keg options and a variety of ciders. I went for Kentish Best by The Canterbury Ales, a classic bitter with soft malt flavour and a smooth, easy finish.
Rochester
Wolfe & Castle
I headed over from Gravesend to Rochester on the train to visit Wolfe & Castle. Wolfe & Castle opened on Rochester High Street in March 2022 inside one of the town’s best-known historic buildings. The Grade II listed property is often nicknamed the “Wonky House” because of its noticeably leaning timber-framed frontage, which has become a familiar sight on the High Street over the years. Long before becoming a pub, the building was used for various retail businesses and most recently traded as the café and deli Food Glorious Food. Set close to Rochester Castle and the cathedral, the pub’s name reflects the town’s medieval surroundings. Today, Wolfe & Castle blends a modern craft beer bar feel with the character and quirks of one of Rochester’s oldest surviving High Street buildings.
Inside feels compact, busy and full of character, making good use of the old timber-framed building around it. Dark wooden beams stretch across the ceilings, while the slightly uneven walls and low spaces add to the charm of the historic interior. Seating is arranged closely together, helping create a sociable atmosphere where conversation carries easily through the room. One side is lined with fridges packed with craft beer cans and bottles, while the walls around the bar are covered with pump clips, drawings, notes and brewery memorabilia that give the place a personal, lived-in feel. Overall, it feels relaxed, welcoming and slightly quirky in the best way.
Drinks wise a choice of 5 keg lines, alongside with several fridges packed full of cans and bottles to choose from. I went for Wavy Blue by Polly’s Brew Co., a hazy pale ale with juicy tropical fruit notes and a soft, smooth finish.
12 Degrees
A short walk towards Chatham brought me onto 12 Degrees Micropub. 12 Degrees opened on Rochester High Street on 15 September 2018, after several delays before launch. It was converted from former shop premises near the Chatham Intra end of the High Street, giving an old retail space a new use. The pub is also known as RAMS 12 Degrees, with “RAMS” standing for “Real Ale Makes Sense.” The “12 Degrees” part reflects the ideal serving temperature for cask ale. Its story is modern, but it fits well into Rochester’s long High Street tradition of small independent businesses and reused historic commercial spaces.
Inside feels warm and full of character, with dark timber beams, low ceilings and soft lighting giving the pub a cosy atmosphere from the moment you walk in. Seating is spread around a compact central bar, with small tables and bench seating tucked into corners and along the walls. The décor mixes old pub touches with quirky details, including hanging tankards, guitars, framed pictures and maritime pieces that suit the Rochester setting. At the front, large patterned windows bring in natural light during the day, while an older mosaic entrance floor adds another historic touch. A separate downstairs room provides extra seating while keeping the relaxed, conversation-focused feel throughout.
A great warm welcome from Will when I arrived and it was fantastic chatting to you and local Laura in here. On the bar a choice of 4 cask ales, 3 keg lines and a selection of local ciders. I went for The Miller’s Ale by The Canterbury Ales, a traditional bitter with gentle malt flavour and a smooth, balanced finish.
Dead Pigeon
Last up on Friday was to The Dead Pigeon Pub in Rochester. The Dead Pigeon occupies a building on Rochester’s Old High Street that had already spent many years connected to pubs and beer before its current name appeared. The site was once known as The Albion, later becoming the Northern Seaman micropub in 2016. In 2018, new owners reopened it as The Dead Pigeon, reportedly after discovering a dead pigeon while decorating the building. Since then, it has grown into a popular craft beer and burger pub, helping bring fresh life to the stretch between Rochester and Chatham while still keeping links to the area’s long pub history.
Inside has a modern craft beer bar feel, with dark walls, low lighting and deep red booth seating giving the room a warm and relaxed atmosphere. The layout is long and fairly narrow, with tables running down both sides and plenty of space for smaller groups to settle in comfortably. Large front windows bring natural light into the pub during the day, while exposed brickwork and neon signs add extra character in the evening. Football shirts and televisions around the walls give the space a sporty edge without overwhelming it. Overall, it feels lively but comfortable, balancing the atmosphere of a bar with the easy-going feel of a local pub.
A great range of craft keg lines on draught with further options available in cans and bottles, a pretty impressive range. I went for Whisper by Floc., a hazy pale ale with soft citrus and tropical hop notes and a smooth, juicy finish.
Micropub Adventures 