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Estuary Ales and Essex Trails: Exploring Leigh, Southend and Beyond
I spent the day exploring Leigh-on-Sea, Westcliff-on-Sea, Southend and Upminster, visiting a great mix of historic pubs, craft beer bars and micropubs along the way. From the waterfront charm of The Peterboat and The Mayflower in Old Leigh to newer venues such as Hopsters and Legra Tap & Kitchen, there was plenty to discover. Westcliff offered two excellent independent beer destinations in West Road Tap and Mile & a Third, while Southend’s Mawson’s Micro Pub provided a warm welcome. I finished the day at Upminster Taproom, rounding off a fantastic trip filled with good beer, friendly conversations and plenty of character.
Leigh-on-Sea, Westcliff-on-Sea, Southend and Upminster each have their own story, but all grew through their connections to London and the Thames Estuary. Leigh began as a small fishing village and is still known for its historic waterfront and cockle boats. Westcliff developed during the Victorian era as a quieter residential area overlooking the sea. Southend grew rapidly in the 19th century, becoming one of Britain’s most popular seaside resorts, helped by the arrival of the railway and its famous pier. Upminster has much older roots, starting as a farming settlement before growing into a thriving town on London’s eastern edge.
Leigh-on-Sea
The Peterboat
I started my day off in Leigh-on-Sea, my first visit being to The Peterboat. The Peterboat stands in the heart of Old Leigh and is one of the area’s best-known historic pubs. Records show a Peterboat Inn on the site by the mid-18th century, while the name reflects the traditional fishing boats that once worked the Thames Estuary and helped shape Leigh’s fishing heritage. The present building dates from 1892, having replaced an earlier pub destroyed by fire. For generations it has served fishermen, locals and visitors overlooking Leigh Creek and the estuary beyond. Today it remains a prominent part of Old Leigh, combining its long maritime history with a role at the centre of one of Essex’s most historic waterfront communities.
Inside combines the character of a traditional waterfront pub with a bright, modern dining space. Dark wood panelling, upholstered bench seating and a long bar give the room a warm and comfortable feel, while large windows make the most of the estuary views and bring plenty of natural light inside. The bar itself is a striking focal point, with shelves of glassware, polished fittings and maritime touches reflecting the pub’s location in Old Leigh. Outside, a huge beer garden stretches along the waterfront, filled with picnic benches and offering superb views across Leigh Creek and the wide-open Thames Estuary.
A great selection on the bar of 3 cask ales, alongside a wide choice of keg options. I went for Hilda B by George’s Brewery, a traditional bitter with gentle malt flavour and a smooth, balanced finish.
The Mayflower
Next in Leigh was a short walk to The Mayflower. The Mayflower sits in the heart of Old Leigh, one of the oldest parts of Leigh-on-Sea, where fishing and maritime trade have been part of daily life for centuries. The pub takes its name from the famous Mayflower, the ship that carried the Pilgrims to America in 1620. Before that historic voyage, the Mayflower was involved in the fishing trade around the Thames Estuary, linking it to the waters that stretch past Old Leigh. The pub itself has become a well-known stop along the waterfront, popular with walkers, day-trippers and locals. With its waterside location and strong connection to the area’s seafaring past, it feels perfectly at home in Old Leigh.
Inside has the character of a long-established waterside pub, with plenty of reminders of its connection to Old Leigh and the estuary beyond. Dark wood panelling, wooden tables and old-fashioned booth seating give the pub a warm and comfortable feel, while ship paintings, maritime touches and strings of dried hops add plenty of character. One of the most eye-catching features is the list of Mayflower passengers painted around the upper walls, linking neatly to the pub’s name. Large windows and doors make the most of the estuary views, while outside, a patio seating area overlooks the mudflats and boats of Old Leigh, making it a great spot to enjoy the scenery with a drink.
A great line up on the bar of 6 cask ales, one cider and a range of keg choices. I went for Brewers Gold by Crouch Vale, a golden ale with floral hop notes, hints of citrus and a crisp, refreshing finish.
Hopsters
A steep uphill walk brought me onto Hopsters Leigh-On-Sea. Hopsters opened on Leigh-on-Sea’s Elm Road in 2021, bringing the established Hopsters name from Suffolk to Essex. The business was founded by craft beer enthusiasts and had already built a reputation through its bottle shops and bars before expanding to Leigh. Taking over a former retail unit close to Leigh Broadway, the venue was created as both a specialist beer shop and a place where customers could enjoy a drink on site. Its arrival added another independent destination to Leigh’s growing beer scene, offering a wide selection of beers from breweries across the UK and beyond. Despite being a relatively recent addition to the town, Hopsters has quickly become a popular stop for local beer lovers.
Inside feels bright, modern and relaxed, with a mix of wooden tables, high seating and plenty of natural light. One wall is covered with colourful artwork and framed prints, adding character and giving the space a creative feel. Large folding doors at the rear open directly onto the outdoor area, helping the inside and outside flow together on warmer days. The courtyard itself is a real suntrap, with wooden tables, colourful chairs, old brick walls and planters creating an attractive setting. A covered seating area provides shelter when needed, making it a comfortable place to enjoy a drink throughout the year.
A fantastic warm welcome from Mike when I arrived and it was great chatting to you. A range of 8 keg lines available to drink in, alongside fridges packed full of cans and bottles to drink in or takeaway. Lots of choice! I went for Laguna by Westbrooks Brewery, a pale ale with bright citrus and tropical fruit notes and a fresh, fruity finish.
Legra Tap & Kitchen
Next up in Leigh-on-Sea was a 15 minute or so walk to Legra Tap and Kitchen. Legra Tap & Kitchen opened in 2022 as a collaboration between Leigh-on-Sea Brewery and Black’s Kitchen, bringing together locally brewed beer and quality food under one roof. The name “Legra” comes from the original name for Leigh, recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086, and is also the name of the brewery’s flagship pale ale. The idea grew from the success of the brewery’s taproom and a desire to create a permanent home where people could enjoy fresh local beer alongside good food. In a nice local touch, part of the business was offered to community investors, giving many Leigh residents a stake in its future.
Inside blends the character of a traditional timber-framed building with a bright and modern pub interior. Exposed beams, white walls and wooden floors give the rooms plenty of warmth, while a mix of tables, chairs, booth seating and high stools provides lots of places to settle in. The bar sits at the heart of the pub, with Leigh-on-Sea Brewery beers taking centre stage, and large leaded windows help bring in natural light throughout the day. Outside, the spacious front seating area offers a mix of picnic benches and tables beneath large parasols, making it a popular spot when the weather is good.
Drinks wise a line up of 3 cask ales, along with a varied selection of craft keg beers and a still cider. I went for Mayflower Best Bitter by Leigh On Sea Brewery, a traditional best bitter with rich malt flavour and a smooth, balanced finish.
The Crafty Half
My last visit in Leigh-on-Sea was to The Crafty Half. Crafty Half opened in 2016, at a time when micropubs and craft beer bars were beginning to make their mark across Essex. Started as a family-run venture, it brought something a little different to Leigh-on-Sea, combining a craft beer bar with a bottle shop under one roof. Over the years it has become a well-known stop for locals and visitors looking to discover beers from independent breweries, whether enjoying a drink in-house or taking a few bottles home. The constantly changing range has helped keep things fresh, while its friendly, informal approach has earned it a loyal following. Today, it remains one of Leigh’s most established independent craft beer destinations.
Inside is bright, colourful and full of personality. The striking green walls and matching tables give the bar a distinctive look, while shelves packed with bottled and canned beers line much of the room. Seating is spread throughout in a mix of round tables, larger group tables and comfortable chairs, making it easy to find a spot whether you’re visiting alone or with friends. The bar sits along the right-hand side of the room, with a changing beer list and plenty of choice behind the counter. Beer-themed artwork, mirrors and Crafty Half branding add extra character, creating a relaxed and welcoming space that feels friendly from the moment you walk in.
A great warm welcome from Steve when I arrived. On the bar a line up of 10 craft keg lines, alongside with fridges packed full of cans and bottles to choose from. I went for Crafty Draft by Brentwood Brewing Company, a golden ale with light citrus hop notes and a smooth, easy-drinking finish.
Westcliff-on-Sea
West Road Tap
I headed over to Westcliff-on-Sea which was a short bus ride away. I started here in West Road Tap. West Road Tap opened in 2017 after an unusual transformation of a former public convenience on West Road. Rather than seeing the small building disappear, it was given a new lease of life as a micropub and bottle shop, creating something quite unique in Westcliff-on-Sea. Its compact size and constantly changing range of beers and ciders soon attracted a loyal following of locals and visitors. Sitting close to the Palace Theatre it has become a familiar stop for people exploring the area. More recently, the pub entered a new chapter under new ownership, continuing its role as an independent destination for good beer and conversation.
Inside makes the most of its compact layout, creating a bright and welcoming space that feels relaxed from the moment you walk in. High tables, stools and bench seating provide a good mix of places to sit, while the dark green panelling, wooden furniture and industrial-style shelving add plenty of character. Large windows and high ceilings help the room feel surprisingly open, with natural light brightening the simple décor. Outside, a small fenced seating area at the front offers a handful of tables and benches, giving people a pleasant spot to enjoy a drink and watch the world go by.
A fantastic warm welcome from Steve in here and was great chatting. Drinks wise on the bar was a single cask ale, 8 craft keg lines and a fridge full of cans to choose from. I went for Cool Bay by Chelmsford Brew Co., a pale ale with bright citrus and tropical fruit notes and a fresh, lively finish.
Mile and a Third
Walking downhill in Westcliff-on-Sea brought me onto Mile and a Third. Mile & a Third opened its doors on 8 March 2019, bringing a fresh take on the micropub idea to Hamlet Court Road in Westcliff-on-Sea. Founded by two experienced beer enthusiasts who were heavily involved with the local beer festival scene, the aim was to create a welcoming place where people could discover independent breweries from across the UK and beyond. The pub’s unusual name comes from Southend Pier, which stretches for exactly a mile and a third into the Thames Estuary. Housed in a former shop unit, it quickly became part of the revival of Hamlet Court Road, adding to the area’s growing reputation for independent businesses and specialist venues.
Inside feels welcoming and full of personality. The compact space is arranged around a rustic wooden bar, with tables and chairs spread throughout the room and large front windows bringing in plenty of natural light. Stone-effect walls, reclaimed timber finishes and an eclectic collection of memorabilia give the pub its own distinctive character, while decorative tree branches stretching across the ceiling create an unusual focal point. Record displays, board games and framed items provide plenty to catch the eye, and customers can even choose from a selection of vinyl records to play. Outside, a small seating area at the front offers a pleasant spot to watch Westcliff life pass by with a drink.
It was great meeting and chatting to Andy when I arrived here. On the bar 2 cask ales alongside 9 keg lines, and fridges packed full of cans and bottles. Lots of choice! I went for Surfer’s Funeral by Chelmsford Brew Co., a hazy pale ale with juicy tropical fruit notes and a soft, smooth finish.
Southend
Mawsons Micro Pub
Next was on the train to Southend East to visit Mawsons Micro Pub. Mawson’s opened in December 2015 and is widely recognised as Southend-on-Sea’s first micropub. The idea came from local brewer Mark Mawson, who wanted to create a place focused on real ale, cider and conversation rather than televisions and fruit machines. A former shop on Southchurch Road was transformed into a welcoming drinking space, helping introduce the growing micropub movement to the town. From the start, Mawson’s championed local breweries alongside beers from further afield, quickly attracting a loyal following of regulars and visitors. More than a decade later, it remains a familiar and much-loved part of Southend’s beer scene.
Inside is compact, comfortable and full of character. The room is centred around a small wooden bar, with a mix of high tables, stools and leather-backed seating spread throughout the space. Warm lighting, rich colours and dark timber finishes give it a cosy atmosphere, while vintage-style signs and framed memorabilia add plenty of personality to the walls. Large front windows bring in natural light during the day, helping balance the darker tones inside. One particularly unusual feature is a working retro arcade table with a built-in screen, tucked beneath a bench seat and ready for a game. Friendly, relaxed and easy to settle into, it feels every inch the traditional micropub.
A fantastic warm welcome from John who it was fantastic chatting to. 5 cask ales on the bar, alongside a few keg and cider options. I went for Trawlerboys by Green Jack Brewing Company, a best bitter with rich malt flavour, gentle fruit notes and a smooth, satisfying finish.
Upminster
Upminster Taproom
Heading back towards London on Thursday I called off at Upminster to visit Upminster TapRoom – Micropub. The Upminster Taproom began as a office before being converted and opening on 21 November 2015. It follows a long line of local spots Upminster has had over the years, going back to when the town was a handy stopping point between London and the Thames. As Upminster grew in the nineteenth century, these small places to meet became part of daily life, somewhere people chatted, shared news and kept up with what was going on. The Taproom simply carries that same easygoing spirit forward today, keeping a bit of Upminster’s local history alive.
Inside, the Upminster Taproom feels easy-going and comfortable, the sort of place you can walk into without overthinking it. The layout is open and straightforward, with plenty of space to grab a seat and settle in. The décor is simple—warm lighting, unfussy furniture and a mix of long tables and smaller ones, so you can either chat with others or tuck yourself away. The atmosphere stays relaxed and friendly, making it somewhere people drift in for a catch-up and often stay longer than planned. Cosy, casual and welcoming.
A great warm welcome as always in here and a great selection of 6 cask ales, 4 keg lines and a huge selection of ciders. I went for Tap Room 19 – 10th Anniversary Ale by Crouch Vale, a pale ale with bright hop character, citrus notes and a fresh, vibrant finish.
Micropub Adventures 