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From Watermills to Wool Mills: A Pub Tour of the Lake District
I had a brilliant day exploring pubs across the Lake District, starting in Windermere before heading to Ings and finishing with a wander around Kendal. It was a fantastic mix of historic pubs, quirky independents and brewery taprooms, each with its own story and plenty of character. Along the way I enjoyed some excellent local beers, sampled some delicious home-cooked food and found some lovely outdoor spots to sit and take in the surroundings. From centuries-old buildings to restored mill sites, every stop offered something different, making it a memorable day discovering the fantastic pub scene in this beautiful part of Cumbria.
Kendal, Windermere and Ings each tell a different part of the Lake District’s story. Kendal grew into one of Cumbria’s most important market towns, becoming famous for its woollen industry and the snuff-making trade that made the town known across Britain. Windermere developed rapidly after the railway arrived in 1847, transforming a small settlement into one of the region’s best-known tourist destinations. Between them, the quiet village of Ings has remained a peaceful farming community for centuries, surrounded by beautiful countryside. Together, they offer a wonderful mix of history, heritage and welcoming pubs, making this part of the Lake District a joy to explore.
Windermere
The Crafty Baa
Saturday saw me head up to the Lake District, starting at The Crafty Baa in Windermere. The Crafty Baa opened in August 2016 after a local family transformed what had previously been a second-hand bookshop into one of Windermere’s most distinctive pubs. They spent around seven months carrying out much of the work themselves, using recycled and upcycled materials to give the place its own unique character. Its success soon led to an expansion into the neighbouring property, creating extra rooms while keeping the same quirky style. In 2018, the hard work was recognised when The Crafty Baa was named AA Pub of the Year for England. It remains one of Windermere’s best-known independent pubs today.
Stepping inside Crafty Baa is an experience in itself, with every room packed from floor to ceiling with quirky decorations and interesting things to look at. Exposed stone walls, timber beams and dark wooden floors give it a cosy feel, while vintage lamps, fairy lights and colourful neon signs create a warm glow throughout. Every ceiling is covered with old signs, pots, books, clocks and all sorts of hanging collectables, meaning you’ll spot something new every time you look up. There are plenty of different seating areas too, from traditional tables and chairs to comfy sofas tucked away in quieter corners. Each room has its own personality, including the peaceful Potting Shed, the wonderfully eccentric Lost and Found Room and even a spooky haunted room filled with Victorian-style curiosities. Despite everything that’s on display, it never feels cluttered. Instead, it feels welcoming, full of character and somewhere you could happily spend hours exploring with a pint in hand.
On the bar a fantastic line up of both cask and keg beers, and a wall featuring the large selection of cans and bottles that they offer. I went for 555 Blonde Ale by Bowness Bay Brewing, a blonde ale with light citrus hop notes, gentle malt sweetness and a clean, refreshing finish.
Ings
The Watermill Inn
I headed out of Windermere on the bus to Ings to visit The Watermill Inn. The Watermill Inn has a history rooted in industry. The building originally stood as a water-powered wood-turning mill, using the nearby beck to drive machinery before its industrial days came to an end. In 1987, the former Millholme Country Hotel was bought by the Coulthwaite family, who transformed it into the Watermill Inn, opening the pub in December 1990. Their long-held ambition to brew on site became reality in 2006 with the launch of the Watermill Brewery, now known as Windermere Brewing Co. Today, the family-run inn combines its industrial heritage with traditional Lakeland hospitality, while the brewery continues to produce a range of award-winning real ales brewed just a few steps from the bar.
Inside is full of character, with exposed stone walls, original beams and slate floors giving it a real Lakeland feel. There are several different seating areas, from cosy corners with cushioned benches to larger dining spaces, while the traditional bar and roaring stone fireplace make it easy to settle in and relax. Windows look out onto the surrounding countryside, and you can even catch a glimpse of the on-site brewery through an internal viewing window. Outside, there are plenty of covered and open seating areas, with a small bridge crossing the water and adding to the peaceful setting. It’s a lovely place to sit with a drink and enjoy the surroundings.
On the bar a range of 4 cask ales, all brewed on site along with a range of keg choices. I went for Collie Wobbles by Windermere Brewing Company, a golden ale with gentle citrus hop notes, light malt sweetness and a smooth, refreshing finish.
Kendal
98 Highgate
I headed into Kendal to spend the afternoon, starting with 98 Highgate. 98 Highgate occupies the former New Inn, a pub that served locals and visitors on Kendal’s historic Highgate for many years. The building itself dates back several centuries and forms part of one of the town’s oldest streets, where many traditional inns once welcomed travellers passing through the market town. After the New Inn closed, the building was carefully brought back into use as 98 Highgate, giving it a new lease of life while keeping its place in Kendal’s pub scene. Today it blends the character of its historic home with a modern approach, ensuring this long-standing pub building continues to welcome people through its doors.
Inside strikes a lovely balance between historic character and a relaxed, modern feel. Exposed stone walls, original timber beams and wooden floors sit alongside colourful artwork, comfortable sofas and a mix of tables and seating that give each room its own personality. Large windows bring in plenty of natural light, while the old range fireplace adds a real focal point to one of the cosy spaces. Outside, there’s seating at the front that’s ideal for watching Kendal go by, as well as a surprisingly spacious rear courtyard with a covered seating area, making it a great spot to enjoy a drink whatever the weather.
A choice of 2 local cask ales available on the bar, along with a range of keg options, some of which are brewed by local breweries. I went for BIT by Gan Yam Brew Co., a best bitter with biscuit malt character, gentle earthy hop notes and a smooth, balanced finish.
Ring O’ Bells
A short walk along the road brought me onto Ring O’ Bells. The Ring O’ Bells is one of Kendal’s oldest pubs, with the current building dating from 1741. It stands beside Kendal Parish Church and is one of the very few pubs in England built on consecrated ground. It was originally built to provide refreshments for the church wardens and bell ringers, giving the pub its distinctive name. Over the years it has welcomed locals, visitors and plenty of stories, with original etched windows from the early 1800s still surviving. Today, its Grade II listed building remains full of character, offering a fascinating link to Kendal’s long history and traditional pub heritage.
Inside feels every bit the traditional country pub, with a collection of cosy rooms that are full of character. Patterned bench seating, old fireplaces, stained glass screens and low ceilings give it a warm, lived-in feel, while framed photographs, historic maps and local artwork add plenty to look at without feeling cluttered. There’s even a charming Bell Ringers’ Snug tucked away for a quieter drink. Outside, tables at the front are perfect for watching the world go by beneath the mature trees, with colourful hanging baskets giving the historic whitewashed building a welcoming first impression.
I managed to sample their delicious home cooked food in here and I must say it was absolutely delicious. 5 cask ales on the bar, along with a range of keg options to choose from. I went for PAL by Gan Yam Brew Co, a pale ale with bright citrus and tropical hop notes and a clean, refreshing finish.
The Factory Tap
Next up was The Factory Tap. The Factory Tap opened in 2015 in Kendal’s historic Castle Mills complex, a site with a long industrial past. The mills were once home to a variety of manufacturing businesses, including carpet production, and played an important role in the town’s industrial development. As industry declined, many of the old mill buildings were carefully brought back into use rather than being lost. Today, Castle Mills is home to a range of independent businesses, with the restored buildings retaining much of their original character. The Factory Tap is part of this regeneration, giving one of Kendal’s historic industrial sites a fresh purpose while preserving an important piece of the town’s heritage.
Inside blends its industrial heritage with a warm, relaxed feel. Exposed stone walls, timber beams and exposed pipework give the room plenty of character, while large windows bring in lots of natural light. A mix of leather chairs, bench seating, high stools and wooden tables means there’s somewhere to suit every visit, whether you’re calling in for a quick pint or staying a while. Outside, there’s a spacious seating area at the front overlooking the old mill buildings, while a quieter gravel courtyard at the back is surrounded by stone walls and greenery, making it a lovely spot to enjoy a drink on a sunny day.
A great range on the bar with a choice of 6 cask ales alongside a variety of keg options. I went for Golden Ale by Lakes & Dales Brewery, a golden ale with light citrus hop notes, gentle malt sweetness and a clean, refreshing finish.
The Barrel House
Onto The Barrel House. The Barrel House sits within Kendal’s historic Castle Mills, a site with centuries of history behind it. The location began as a medieval corn mill serving Kendal Castle before becoming a fulling mill for the town’s thriving wool trade. The present mill buildings were rebuilt in 1805–06 as a large woollen mill, later expanding to employ hundreds of local people making tweeds, blankets and other woollen goods. After wool production ended in 1933, the site became a carpet factory before eventually being transformed into the business complex seen today. Bowness Bay Brewing moved its brewery to Castle Mills in 2014, with the Barrel House opening in 2019 as its welcoming taproom. Today, you can enjoy a pint just a few steps from where the beer is brewed, giving another new purpose to one of Kendal’s most historic industrial sites.
Inside has a relaxed industrial feel, with dark painted walls, exposed beams and wooden floors giving it plenty of character. Simple wooden tables and bench seating keep the focus on the beer, while the large open frontage brings plenty of natural light into the main room and creates an easy connection with the outdoor space. Outside, there’s a spacious seating area with picnic benches, barrel tables and covered wooden booths, making it just as inviting on warmer days. Surrounded by the brewery buildings, it’s an easy place to settle in, enjoy a pint and watch the brewery going about its day.
4 cask ales were available on the bar, along with a variety of keg options to choose from. I went for Swift Best by Bowness Bay Brewing, a best bitter with rich biscuit malt flavour, gentle earthy hop notes and a smooth, satisfying finish.
Fell Bar
Walking back into the centre of Kendal brought me to Fell Bar. Fell Bar is the original pub of Fell Brewery, sitting just off Kendal’s High Street on Lowther Street. Fell Brewery was founded in South Cumbria in 2013, brewing modern cask and keg beers inspired by the landscapes and traditions of the Lake District. As the brewery grew, Kendal became its first pub, giving people the chance to enjoy its beers in the heart of the town. Since opening in 2016, the bar has remained an important part of the brewery’s story, with Fell later expanding to run pubs in Penrith, Manchester and Stockport while keeping its roots firmly in Cumbria.
Inside has a warm, welcoming feel with plenty of natural wood, exposed stone walls and original timber beams giving the space lots of character. The bar sits at the heart of the room, with rows of hanging glasses overhead adding to its brewery feel. Downstairs offers a mix of bench seating, wooden tables and window stools looking out onto the street, creating both sociable spaces and quieter corners. Upstairs is a little more peaceful, with exposed stonework, large windows, comfortable seating and plenty of natural light. Potted plants, soft lighting and a handful of framed prints add a homely touch, making it somewhere that’s easy to settle in and enjoy a relaxed drink.
Drinks wise a selection of 2 cask ales and a great craft keg line up showcasing their own beers alongside guests. A can fridge next to the bar offers cans to drink in or takeaway. I went for Northern Outpost by Fell Brewery, a hazy pale ale with juicy citrus, peach and tropical fruit hop notes and a soft, refreshing finish.
The Snuff Bar
I headed around to The Snuff Bar. The Snuff Bar stands on Kent Street in one of Kendal’s traditional stone buildings, just a short walk from the River Kent. Its name celebrates the town’s famous snuff-making heritage, an industry that began in 1792 when Thomas Harrison introduced snuff production to Kendal after learning the trade in Glasgow. The business later became Samuel Gawith, with other local manufacturers following, helping establish Kendal as one of Britain’s best-known centres for snuff production. More recently, the building served as the taproom for Handsome Brewery before reopening as today’s welcoming, family-run bar.
Inside has a relaxed, welcoming feel with a mix of comfortable seating and sociable spaces. One room is set up with leather sofas and armchairs around a small glass-topped table, making it an easy place to settle in and chat. Elsewhere, barrel tables, high stools and wooden tops create a more informal drinking area. The walls are decorated with fun artwork, including the pub’s own logo and a striking angel-and-devil mural, giving the place plenty of personality. Soft lighting, large windows and little quirky touches throughout help create a friendly atmosphere that’s full of character without feeling overdone.
A selection on the bar of 4 cask ales, along with a variety of keg options served through a striking large tank on the bar. I went for BIT by Gan Yam Brew Co., a best bitter with biscuit malt character, gentle earthy hop notes and a smooth, balanced finish.
Indie Craft Beer
My penultimate visit in Kendal was to Indie Craft Beer. Indie Craft Beer sits at 32 Finkle Street, one of Kendal’s old town-centre shopping streets. The building dates from around 1810 and has spent most of its life as a commercial property, forming part of a busy street that has served shoppers and traders for more than two centuries. Rather than being a historic pub, it found a new use when Indie Craft Beer opened here in August 2023. It gives this old Finkle Street shopfront a fresh lease of life, while still fitting naturally into Kendal’s independent town-centre scene.
Inside makes the most of its compact space with a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. The small wooden bar sits at the heart of the room, while exposed timber beams, original wooden floors and a ceiling covered in colourful beer pump clips give the bar plenty of character. Warm lighting and simple décor keep the focus on enjoying a drink, while upstairs there’s a quieter seating area with a mix of tables, comfy chairs and sofas, making it easy to settle in for a while. Outside, tables and chairs along the front provide a great place to enjoy a drink and watch life on the street pass by.
A fantastic beer line up featuring 1 cask ale alongside 12 craft keg lines. Further options available in a number of well stocked fridges. I went for Cherry Bèbè by Lakes Brew Co., a cherry sour with vibrant juicy fruit flavour, balanced tartness and a crisp, refreshing finish.
Union Tavern
My final visit in Kendal was to Union Tavern. The Union Tavern has been part of Stricklandgate for well over 190 years. The building dates from around 1800 and is thought to have started life as a spinning house before becoming a tavern in 1834. It later became known as the Union Tavern after the nearby Kendal Union Workhouse, which once stood close by. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries it was owned for many years by Kendal’s Alexander brewing family, remaining a familiar stop on the road into town. Despite changes in name and ownership over the years, it has continued to serve locals and visitors from the same historic building.
Inside has a warm, traditional feel with plenty of character. Dark timber beams and low ceilings give the pub a cosy atmosphere, while the stone fireplace creates a natural focal point in one of the seating areas. Wooden tables and chairs are spread throughout the room, with a few comfortable tartan armchairs offering a quieter place to relax. Large windows bring in plenty of natural light during the day, helping to brighten the space. Outside, there’s a spacious enclosed beer garden with picnic benches and large parasols, making it a great spot to enjoy a drink when the weather’s good.
A great warm welcome from James and Ben behind the bar. A selection of 4 cask ales, alongside a variety of keg choices including a couple from local breweries. I went for Bitter by Lakes & Dales Brewery, a traditional bitter with balanced biscuit malt flavour, gentle earthy hop notes and a smooth, satisfying finish.
Micropub Adventures 