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Full Steam Ahead: A Carlisle Pub Adventure
Sunday saw me head up the historic Settle and Carlisle Railway for a day exploring Carlisle and some of its pubs. I started at Scott & Brassey, where I caught up with friends Alistair, Michael and Jess, before moving on to the Thin White Duke. From there I visited West Walls Brewing Co, The King’s Head and the Milbourne Arms, enjoying a good mix of historic pubs and newer places along the way. I finished the day at The Spinners Arms in Cummersdale, where it was fantastic to meet Alison from Carlisle Brewing Co. A really enjoyable day exploring Carlisle and its pubs.
Carlisle has a history stretching back nearly 2,000 years. The Romans established a fort here in the early AD 70s, with the settlement becoming known as Luguvalium. Its position close to Scotland later made Carlisle an important border stronghold. Carlisle Castle was founded by William II in 1092, while medieval walls were built to help protect the city from attack. Over the centuries Carlisle saw numerous conflicts, including the English Civil War and the Jacobite Rising of 1745. Later, industry and the arrival of the railways helped the city grow, while its castle, cathedral and surviving historic streets still tell its long story today.
Scott & Brassey
Sunday saw me head up the historic Settle and Carlisle Railway line to Carlisle, my first call here was to Scott & Brassey. Scott & Brassey occupies one of the most historic spaces at Carlisle Citadel Station. The Grade II* listed station opened in 1847, with this impressive room originally built as a first-class waiting room before later becoming the famous Station Buffet. In 2014 it reopened as 301 Miles From London, but that venture was short-lived before the space fell empty. Following a major restoration by Network Rail and the Railway Heritage Trust, Lancaster Brewery reopened it as Scott & Brassey in February 2026. Named after Sir Walter Scott and railway engineer Thomas Brassey, it celebrates Carlisle’s railway heritage while giving this remarkable station room a new lease of life.
Inside is an impressive space that makes the most of its railway heritage. Soaring vaulted ceilings, original timber beams and tall arched windows give the building a real sense of grandeur, while the restored fireplace, old railway signs, vintage photographs and striking wall of clocks add plenty of character. The long bar sits beneath shelves filled with plants, creating a welcoming focal point, while the raised mezzanine provides another place to sit and look across the pub. A section of enclosed booth seating adds a cosy corner away from the main bar, and outdoor tables at both the front of the station and out on the platform offer somewhere to sit and watch the trains go by.
It was also great to catch up with friends Alistair, Michael and Jess while I was up here. We’d arranged to meet, so it was the perfect opportunity to enjoy a pint together before carrying on with the day’s exploring. Drinks wise a selection of 4 cask ales alongside a wide variety of keg options both on the front and back bar. I went for Amber by Lancaster Brewery, an amber ale with rich malt flavours, gentle fruit notes and a smooth, balanced finish.
Thin White Duke
A short walk brought me to Thin White Duke. The Thin White Duke opened in 2010 in a striking Grade II listed building on Devonshire Street. Before becoming the Thin White Duke, it traded as the Friars Tavern, followed by F.T.’s and later The Glasshouse. In its days as the Friars Tavern, it was known as Carlisle’s last male-only pub, finally ending that tradition in 1974 and finally closing in 1999 before reopening under a new name. Today, the venue takes its name from David Bowie’s famous alter ego, combining the character of its historic building with a relaxed, modern atmosphere in the heart of the city.
Inside successfully blends its historic surroundings with a modern, relaxed style. Exposed red brick walls, decorative ceiling details and warm hanging lights give the room plenty of character, while the long wooden bar remains the centrepiece. A mix of high tables, leather booths and comfortable seating means there’s somewhere to suit every occasion, whether you’re calling in for a drink or settling down with friends. Quirky touches, including penny-covered tabletops, artwork and plenty of greenery, add extra personality without feeling overdone. Outside, there’s also seating at the front, making it a great spot to watch the world go by on a warm day.
On the bar a choice of 2 cask ales, along with a wide variety of keg options to choose from. I went for Curlew’s Return by Allendale Brewery, a pale ale with light citrus and fruity flavours and a clean, refreshing finish.
West Walls Brewing Co
West Walls Brewing Co was up next. West Walls Brewing Co opened in 2024, bringing brewing back into the heart of Carlisle with the city’s first city-centre microbrewery. The brewery and taproom occupy the former Twisted Wheel nightclub on the historic West Walls, giving a well-known local building a completely new lease of life. Beer is brewed, packaged and served under the same roof, so visitors can enjoy it just a few steps from where it was made. While the building has taken on a fresh purpose, it still keeps plenty of its character, helping connect Carlisle’s rich brewing past with a new generation of local beer lovers.
Inside has a bright, spacious feel that perfectly blends a modern taproom with the atmosphere of a working brewery. As you walk in, the long bar immediately catches your eye, while the impressive stainless steel brewing vessels stretch along one side of the room, giving you a great view of where the beer is made. Wooden tables, benches and bar stools provide plenty of seating, while the wooden block flooring, exposed brickwork and chunky timber beams add plenty of character. Large windows bring in lots of natural light, and industrial-style lighting, framed artwork and subtle decorative touches create a warm, relaxed atmosphere that’s easy to settle into.
Outside, look out for a cheeky “Rude Kid” stencil by street artist Dotmasters, added in 2024 and showing the young character spraying an anarchy symbol onto the wall.
On the bar a choice of 4 cask ales (2 from themselves and 2 guests), alongside a great variety of keg options listed on the back wall. I went for Kaikoura by West Walls Brewing Co., a New Zealand pale ale with bright citrus and tropical fruit flavours and a fresh, refreshing finish. I also went for Low Rider by West Walls Brewing Co., a session pale ale with light citrus and fruity hop flavours and a clean, easy-drinking finish.
The Kings Head
Next was a short walk to The Kings Head. The King’s Head Inn is widely regarded as one of Carlisle’s oldest pubs, with the present building dating from the 17th century. It stands on a site where historians believe ale has been served since at least the 10th century, making it one of the city’s longest-established drinking spots. The inn was officially recorded as the King’s Head Inn in 1829, when it was run by James Sawyer, a veteran of the Peninsular War and the Battle of Waterloo. It later became part of Carlisle’s State Management Scheme, helping preserve its place as a much-loved traditional pub that continues to welcome locals and visitors alike.
Inside is full of character, with low beamed ceilings, timber-framed walls and a series of cosy rooms that all have their own feel. The traditional wooden bar sits at the heart of the pub, while bench seating, booths, high tables and quiet corners give you plenty of choice. Warm lighting, exposed brickwork and old wooden casks used as wall features add to the atmosphere without feeling overdone. Large windows at the front bring in plenty of natural light, while a covered outdoor seating area at the rear provides another place to relax. It feels welcoming, comfortable and packed with history.
A selection of 3 cask ales to choose between on the bar, along with a wide range of keg options. I went for Wakatu by Pictish Brewing Company, a pale ale with light citrus and fruity hop flavours and a clean, refreshing finish.
The Milbourne Arms
Around a 10 minute walk heading past Carlisle Cathedral and onto the other side of the railway station brings me to The Milbourne Arms. Built in 1853, the Milbourne Arms has been part of Denton Holme for well over 170 years. It was originally created to serve the workers employed in the busy textile mills that once dominated this part of Carlisle, including the nearby Linton Tweeds mill. In 1916 it became part of Carlisle’s unique State Management Scheme, when the Government took control of many local pubs during the First World War. The Grade II listed building survived severe flooding in 2005 before being carefully restored. Today, it’s the last remaining pub in Denton Holme, proudly continuing its long tradition of serving the local community.
Inside feels warm, comfortable and well cared for, with a good balance of traditional features and modern touches. Wooden floors, sturdy tables and a mix of upholstered chairs and cosy armchairs provide plenty of places to relax, while decorative fireplaces add character to several of the rooms. The walls are filled with framed photographs, local artwork and an impressive collection of Carlisle FC memorabilia, celebrating the pub’s close links with the city. Large windows bring in plenty of natural light, while soft lighting keeps things welcoming later in the day. At the rear, there’s also a small outdoor seating area, offering a quiet spot for a drink in the fresh air.
A choice of 2 cask ales available on the bar, as well as a selection of keg beers to choose from. I went for 808 Pacific Ale by Five Kingdoms, a Pacific pale ale with bright citrus and tropical fruit flavours and a clean, refreshing finish.
The Spinners Arms
My final visit in Carlisle was to The Spinners Arms. The Spinners Arms has long been at the heart of Cummersdale, serving the village as a friendly local for generations. Housed in its distinctive Grade II listed building dating from 1930, it combines plenty of character with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. In 2007, the pub entered a new chapter when it was bought by the founders of Carlisle Brewing Co. Brewing began in outbuildings behind the pub in 2013, before moving to larger premises in 2015 as demand grew. Although the brewery is now based elsewhere, The Spinners Arms remains the brewery tap, serving Carlisle Brewing Co’s beers where the brewery’s story first began.
Inside has the feel of a proper community local that’s been well cared for over the years. The long polished wooden bar is the heart of a single open room, with a mix of tables, chairs, bench seating and a pool table giving the space a relaxed, sociable feel. Wood panelling, traditional fireplaces, leaded windows and framed displays celebrating the pub’s history and local community add plenty of character without feeling overdone. Soft lighting and warm colours make it easy to settle in and stay awhile. Outside, the beer garden at the front of the pub is a pleasant spot to sit with a drink and watch village life go by.
It was also fantastic to meet and chat with Alison, one half of Carlisle Brewing Co. It’s always great to put a face to the brewery, and even better to see how well they’re doing. Wishing them every success for the future. Drinks wise on the bar a selection of 3 cask ales from Carlisle Brewing Co along with a selection of keg options. I went for Magic Number by Carlisle Brewing Co., a golden ale with light citrus and fruity flavours and a clean, refreshing finish. I also went for Cumbrian Bitter by Carlisle Brewing Co., a traditional bitter with malty flavours and a smooth, balanced finish.
