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Pints by the Shore: A Day Exploring Leith & Edinburgh
I spent the day exploring Leith and Edinburgh, starting with some brilliant pubs around The Shore before working my way through brewery taprooms, traditional locals and a couple of extra stops along the way. Leith had a great mix of old maritime character and modern independent brewing, with plenty of excellent cask and craft beer to try. I also called into Shore Distillery and Beets before heading across to Bellfield and Otherworld. Back in central Edinburgh, I finished at two real classics, the Guildford Arms and Café Royal. A cracking final day and a great way to end my Scotland trip.
Leith has been shaped by the sea for centuries. Growing around the mouth of the Water of Leith, it developed into a port serving Edinburgh and became an important centre for shipping, trade and industry. Ships brought goods from across Europe and beyond, while warehouses, docks and businesses grew along the waterfront. Leith had a strong identity of its own and remained separate from Edinburgh until the two were joined in 1920. The docks later declined, but much of the area’s maritime character survived. Today, old warehouses, pubs and waterfront buildings still give Leith a strong sense of its past.
Roseleaf Bar Cafe
I headed over from Glasgow to Edinburgh and onto the bus to Leith. My first visit of the day was to Roseleaf Bar Cafe. Roseleaf opened in 2007 in a corner building at 23–24 Sandport Place, just a short walk from Leith’s historic waterfront. The building stands in an area that has long been linked with the old docks, warehouses and merchants that helped make Leith one of Scotland’s busiest ports. While the pub itself is modern, it sits among streets rich in maritime history, where generations of sailors, traders and local residents have lived and worked. Over the years, Roseleaf has become a much-loved part of the neighbourhood, blending into Leith’s welcoming pub scene while adding its own friendly character to this historic corner.
Step inside Roseleaf and you’ll find a warm, colourful space packed with character. Dark woodwork, red walls and wooden floors are mixed with plenty of greenery, flowers and quirky decorations dotted around the room. The curved wooden bar sits at the heart of the pub, surrounded by stools, while tables and bench seating fill the rest of the space. Shelves, mirrors, pictures and all sorts of little ornaments give you plenty to look at, without it feeling too cluttered. Large windows bring in plenty of natural light, while the mix of traditional features and playful touches gives Roseleaf a cosy, relaxed and welcoming feel.
A choice of 2 cask ales on the bar to choose from along with a selection of keg options. I went for IPA by Pilot, an American IPA with juicy pineapple and grapefruit flavours and a fresh, hoppy finish.
Teuchters Landing
A short walk away in Leith was Teuchters Landing. Teuchters Landing sits in one of Leith’s most historic waterfront buildings. The main bar was once the waiting room for the steamboat ferry that carried passengers between Leith and Aberdeen, giving the pub a direct link to the area’s busy maritime past. The building also stands beside the old dock entrance and historic swing bridge, reminders of Leith’s days as Scotland’s busiest port. In 2008, the former waterfront venue was transformed into Teuchters Landing, blending its rich history with a welcoming pub atmosphere. Today, it remains a favourite stop for locals and visitors, where the past still feels very much part of the experience.
Inside feels cosy, relaxed and packed with character. Dark wood, stone walls and wooden floors give it a warm traditional feel, with old photographs, colourful murals, framed rugby shirts and whisky barrel ends covering the walls. There’s a good mix of wooden tables, high stools and comfortable leather bench seating, with plenty of little corners to settle into. Outside, there’s a large waterside seating area stretching alongside the building, much of it covered, as well as plenty more tables set out across the bridge. Sitting right beside the water, it’s a cracking spot when the weather behaves.
A great variety on the bar of 4 cask ales, a still cider and a range of keg choices, showcasing lots of local breweries. I went for It’s Always Sunny In Birsay by Swannay Brewery, an English pale ale with light hoppy flavours and a clean, refreshing finish.
Lost in Leith
Next in Leith was to Lost In Leith Bar & Fermentaria. Lost In Leith Bar & Fermentaria opened in March 2020, bringing new life to a beautifully restored former whisky bond on Commercial Street in Leith. Run by Campervan Brewery, it sits in one of the area’s historic waterfront warehouses, where the vaulted brick ceilings are a reminder of the building’s past storing whisky and other goods arriving through the busy docks. The bar was created as both a welcoming place to enjoy great beer and a home for the brewery’s barrel-ageing project. Today it blends Leith’s rich trading heritage with its thriving modern food and drink scene, making it a popular stop by The Shore.
Inside you’re greeted by a characterful space built around its impressive brick-vaulted ceilings and stone archways. The long, dark wooden bar follows the shape of the room, with stools running alongside, while wooden tables, leather seating and cosy booths fill the arches beyond. Warm lighting picks out the old brickwork and gives the whole place a relaxed, welcoming feel. Towards the back, more seating sits beneath the low vaulted ceiling, with barrels visible beyond. The mix of historic stone and brick, dark wood and comfortable seating gives Lost in Leith plenty of character.
A fantastic line up of keg beers on the bar to choose from, alongside a fridge packed full of cans. I went for Mango Mimosa by Campervan Brewery, a fruited Berliner Weisse with juicy mango, fresh lime and a tart, refreshing finish.
The Shore Bar
A short walk brought me onto The Shore Bar. The Shore occupies the ground floor of a handsome four-storey building completed in 1802, at a time when Leith was Scotland’s busiest port. Before becoming a pub, the premises were used as a counting house, where merchants handled the trade flowing through the docks. In 1884 the building was converted into a public house, serving dock workers, sailors, merchants and local residents. As the shipping industry changed and Leith evolved, the pub remained a constant on the waterfront. Today it is recognised as one of Scotland’s finest surviving Victorian pubs, with its long history closely tied to the commercial and maritime story of The Shore itself.
Inside you’ll find a warm, characterful interior filled with dark wood panelling, deep red walls and soft lighting. Marble-topped tables, red leather seating and cosy corners give the main room a comfortable, traditional feel, with framed pictures and mirrors adding plenty of detail. Large windows bring in natural light, while the high wood-panelled ceiling adds to the sense of character. A separate room has a brighter feel, with wooden floors, red bench seating, its own fireplace and more traditional decoration. Together, the different spaces make The Shore Bar feel welcoming, relaxed and full of charm.
2 cask ales on the bar along with a variety of keg options. I went for Jack Back by Stewart Brewing, a session IPA with citrus and tropical fruit flavours and a crisp, refreshing finish.
Moonwake Beer Co
I headed around the corner to Moonwake Beer Co. Moonwake Taproom is part of Moonwake Beer Co, an independent brewery established in 2021 in the heart of Leith. The brewery was created by a team with years of craft brewing experience, transforming an industrial unit on Tower Street into a modern brewery and welcoming taproom. The name “Moonwake” comes from the moon’s reflection on water, a nod to its waterside setting near The Shore. Since opening, it has quickly earned a strong reputation for its carefully brewed beers and relaxed atmosphere, becoming a popular stop for both locals and visitors exploring Leith’s thriving beer scene.
It has a bright, colourful feel while still keeping plenty of its working brewery character. White brick walls, exposed steelwork and a high industrial ceiling are brought to life by bold murals and artwork throughout. Wooden tables and metal chairs fill the main taproom, with a few high tables dotted around, while a separate seating area has comfy leather sofas and a more relaxed feel. The wooden bar sits beneath colourful lighting, and stairs lead down past more artwork. Best of all, the brewing equipment is clearly visible, giving you a great look at where everything is made.
The bar showcases a variety of their beers in a range of styles and strengths. I went for No Moonwake, No Party by Moonwake, an American pale ale with zesty citrus, peach and gentle tropical fruit flavours and a smooth, easy-drinking finish.
Carriers Quarters
A short walk away was my next visit to Carriers Quarters. Henry Hall’s Carriers Quarters has long been part of Leith’s dockside story. The pub takes its name from the carriers who moved goods around the busy port, with local tradition linking it to a public house that dates back to 1785. The present building on Bernard Street, however, was built around 1890 and originally operated as a wine and spirit merchant before becoming the pub we know today. It remains one of Leith’s best-loved traditional locals, with much of its historic character carefully preserved. Just a short walk from The Shore, it offers a genuine glimpse into the area’s rich maritime past.
Inside you’ll find a cosy, characterful pub with plenty of traditional charm. Dark wood, worn wooden floors and small seating areas give the front a warm, intimate feel. Head through to the back room and exposed stone walls take over, with leather seating, wooden tables, old advertising signs, framed pictures and a fireplace adding plenty of character. The different rooms and little corners make the pub feel surprisingly varied inside, with plenty of comfortable places to settle in. It’s warm, welcoming and lived-in, with the back room especially showing off the building’s old-fashioned charm.
Drinks wise they have 2 cask ales on the bar along with a varied selection of keg beers. I went for Joy Division by Three Brothers Brewing Co., an English pale ale with fresh citrus flavours and a clean, hoppy finish.
Malt & Hops
Back onto the Shore to visit Malt & Hops. Malt & Hops has been welcoming drinkers on The Shore since 1747, making it one of the oldest pubs in Leith and one of the oldest surviving pubs in Scotland. For centuries it has stood beside the Water of Leith, serving locals, dockworkers, sailors and visitors as the busy port around it changed. While much of The Shore has evolved, the pub has stayed true to its traditional character, becoming a favourite for anyone looking for an authentic old-fashioned Scottish pub. Step inside today and you’re enjoying a piece of Leith’s long history, where nearly three centuries of stories have been shared over a pint.
Inside is packed with character and feels like a proper old-fashioned pub. Dark wood, green bench seating and traditional wooden tables fill the room, while the walls are covered with old mirrors, brewery signs, pictures and other bits of pub history. One of the most striking features is the huge collection of dried hops hanging from the ceiling, alongside old pump clips, jugs and glasses. Warm lamps add to the cosy feel, while the large windows look straight out across the Water of Leith. There’s something interesting to spot almost everywhere you look.
A fantastic selection of 7 cask ales from a range of breweries on the bar, alongside a number of keg options. I went for Avalanche by Fyne Ales, a pale ale with bright citrus hop flavours and a crisp, refreshing finish.
Dreadnought
I headed slightly out of the centre to visit Dreadnought. The Dreadnought occupies a building that was long known as The Halfway House, serving the North Fort Street area of Leith for many years. The pub was given a new lease of life when it reopened as The Dreadnought in 2016, taking its name from the famous Royal Navy battleship and reflecting the area’s strong maritime heritage. It has since become one of Edinburgh’s best-known real ale pubs, earning several CAMRA awards while building a reputation as a friendly, welcoming community local. Sitting close to Leith’s old docks and the former Pride Bridge, it blends traditional pub character with a modern, inclusive atmosphere that makes everyone feel at home.
Inside is colourful, characterful and packed with things to catch your eye. The large dark wooden bar is framed by ornate curved woodwork, while pale panelled walls are covered with pictures, posters and quirky decorations. Wooden floors and mismatched tables and chairs give it a relaxed, lived-in feel, with red leather bench seating creating cosy spots around the room. Large windows bring in plenty of natural light, while the colourful flags and decorations add plenty of personality. There’s even a shuffleboard table by the windows, adding another fun touch to this friendly and welcoming pub.
A great welcome from Toby when I arrived. On offer was a fantastic selection of both cask and keg beers, showcasing a brilliant range. I went for Blue Lady Pale by Pilot, a spiced pale ale brewed with Blue Lady tea, giving it floral notes, grapefruit flavour and a light, refreshing finish.
Campervan Brewery
Next I headed over to Campervan Brewery. Campervan Brewery began with a home brew kit, a 1973 Volkswagen campervan called Olive and a passion for great beer. What started as a small brewing project gradually grew into an independent brewery after a period of personal challenges inspired a fresh direction. After several years of small-scale and travelling brews, the brewery opened its home on Jane Street in Leith in 2017, along with a welcoming taproom where visitors could enjoy beer fresh from the source. Since then, Campervan has continued to grow, expanding its brewing facilities while staying true to its adventurous spirit and helping cement Leith’s reputation as one of Scotland’s best beer destinations.
Inside, Campervan Brewery Tap is bright, spacious and full of character, with its high ceiling and industrial setting giving it an open feel. Colourful orange benches fill much of the room, alongside a large communal wooden table and seating along the walls. Surfboards, skis, a bicycle, framed pictures and neon signs add plenty of personality, while plants and warm hanging lights soften the look. Large windows bring in lots of natural light, and there’s even a pool table tucked to one side. Outside, a large courtyard has plenty more picnic tables, surrounded by the working brewery and stacks of kegs.
A fantastic line up of craft beers on the taps, showing a large variety of styles and strengths to choose from. I went for Hazy Pale Ale by Campervan Brewery, a hazy pale ale with soft citrus and tropical fruit flavours and a smooth, refreshing finish.
Newbarns Brewery
My final call in Leith before heading back towards Edinburgh was to Newbarns Brewery. Newbarns Brewery & Taproom began life in 2019 when a group of experienced brewers came together to create a brewery focused on traditional, easy-drinking beers. Plans were disrupted by the pandemic, so the first beers were released in cans before brewing fully moved into the Jane Street site in Leith. The brewery’s taproom opened in 2022, giving visitors the chance to enjoy fresh beer just a few steps from where it is brewed. Today, Newbarns has become an important part of Leith’s growing brewing scene, helping continue the area’s long connection with beer while keeping things friendly, relaxed and welcoming.
Inside has a warm, characterful feel despite its large industrial setting. The high metal roof, exposed beams and white brick walls are softened by wooden tables, mismatched chairs, bench seating and plenty of greenery. Warm hanging lights and colourful artwork give the room a cosy feel, with the working brewery and its large stainless-steel tanks just beyond the taproom. There’s plenty of space to settle in, whether at a table or near the bar. Outside, a large enclosed courtyard has rows of picnic tables, plants and umbrellas, providing plenty more seating when the weather allows.
A fantastic choice of beers on tap, showcasing a variety of styles and strengths, alongside even more choices in cans from the fridge. I went for Pale Ale – Citra, Cashmere & Nelson Sauvin by Newbarns Brewery, an American pale ale with fruity hop flavours and a soft, refreshing finish.
Shore Distillery / Beets
As well as working my way around Leith’s pubs and brewery taprooms, I managed to squeeze in a couple of slightly different stops along the way. Both were close to The Shore and well worth calling into, starting with a small distillery before heading around the corner to one of Leith’s independent bottle shops.
The first was Shore Distillery at 31 Shore, bringing a little bit of Skye to Leith. It’s part of the same independent distillery group behind 57° Skye Distillery in Broadford, along with Skye Bridge Distillery and Plockton Distillery. The Leith site offers tastings and showcases spirits from the group’s different locations, including gin and whisky. It’s quite a small place, making it easy to have a chat with the team and find out more about what they produce and the story connecting their distilleries on Skye and the west coast with Leith.
Just around the corner at 49 Bernard Street is Beets, a long-established independent off-licence that has been part of Leith since at least 2014. It may not look huge from outside, but there’s plenty packed into the shop, with a great choice of beer alongside wine, gin and other spirits. Scottish breweries feature strongly, alongside plenty from further afield. It’s exactly the sort of independent shop I enjoy finding on my travels and made a nice little extra stop while exploring Leith.
Bellfield Brewery
I headed out from Leith in a taxi to Bellfield Brewery. Bellfield Brewery opened in Edinburgh in 2015 with a simple aim: to brew great-tasting craft beer that everyone could enjoy, including people with coeliac disease. It became the UK’s first dedicated gluten-free craft brewery, with every beer brewed gluten-free and vegan. The brewery later opened its taproom at its Stanley Place home in Abbeyhill, giving visitors the chance to enjoy fresh beer just a short walk from Holyrood Park. Today, the Bellfield Brewery Tap Room has become a popular stop for both locals and visitors, combining independent brewing with a warm, relaxed atmosphere that reflects Edinburgh’s thriving craft beer scene.
Inside, Bellfield Brewery Tap Room feels bright, relaxed and full of character. Wooden tables and benches fill the main room, with colourful metal chairs, warm hanging lights and plenty of greenery adding a cosy touch. The bold black-and-white Bellfield mural makes a real feature of one wall, while exposed roof beams keep a hint of the building’s industrial feel. Outside, there’s a large covered courtyard with plenty more seating, including long benches, sheltered booths, colourful stools and barrel tables. Surrounded by greenery, it feels welcoming and tucked away, giving you plenty of space to settle in whatever the weather.
A fantastic line up on the bar with 2 cask ales and a wide variety of keg beers to choose between. I went for Joppa Juice IPA by Bellfield Brewery, an IPA with juicy peach, pineapple and berry flavours and a soft, fruity finish.
Otherworld Bar and Kitchen
I headed next to Otherworld Bar and Kitchen by Otherworld Brewing. Otherworld Bar & Kitchen sits at 17 Albert Place, just off Leith Walk. The premises have been home to a bar for some time, previously trading as Bar Luna and, more recently, The Black Fox. In November 2025, the venue was taken over by Edinburgh-based Otherworld Brewing, giving the brewery its own permanent bar in the city. It was renamed Otherworld towards the end of that month before undergoing a refurbishment in early 2026. The changes included the introduction of handpumps for cask ale. Today, it continues the building’s life as a welcoming local bar while giving Otherworld a home in Leith.
Inside feels bright, relaxed and welcoming, with plenty of character. Wooden floors and tables bring warmth to the room, while deep purple seating, white tiled walls and darker areas add a bit of colour. The long bar runs down one side, with high stools alongside it, while comfortable booths and tables fill the rest of the space. The high ceilings have some lovely old decorative details, which sit nicely alongside the more modern look. Hanging lights add a warm glow, and the mix of seating gives the whole place a comfortable, easy-going feel that makes it easy to settle in.
A choice of 2 cask ales on the bar, alongside a huge selection of keg beers to choose from, showing a wide choice of styles. I went for Trafalgar – Sail On by Otherworld Brewing, a session bitter with light malt flavours, gentle marmalade notes and a smooth, balanced finish.
The Guildford Arms
Back into the centre of Edinburgh for my final 2 visits, the first being to Guildford Arms. The Guildford Arms has been a favourite Edinburgh pub since 1896, standing on the site of the former Guildford Arms Hotel just a short walk from Waverley Station. It was redesigned by architect Robert Macfarlane Cameron, who created the striking Victorian interior that still attracts visitors today. The pub has remained in the hands of the Stewart family ever since it opened, making it one of Edinburgh’s longest-running family-owned pubs. Over the years it has become known as one of the city’s classic Victorian pubs, admired for its beautiful architecture, warm welcome and traditional character. It’s a true Edinburgh institution with more than a century of history behind it.
Step inside the Guildford Arms and it’s easy to see why so many people love it. The room is full of rich dark wood, polished brass and beautiful stained glass, with an ornate ceiling adding to the Victorian feel. Decorative mirrors and carved details catch your eye wherever you look, while the long wooden bar sits proudly at the heart of the pub. Comfortable seating is spread across several areas, making it feel cosy despite its size. Natural light pours through the front windows during the day, while softer lighting in the evening gives the whole place a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
As always a fantastic selection of cask ales to choose from on the bar, 9 today along with a still cider and a wide variety of keg choices. I went for Bitter & Twisted by Harviestoun Brewery, a golden ale with light fruity flavours and a zesty lemon finish.
Café Royal
Last up in Edinburgh and my final visit on my Scotland trip was to The Café Royal. Café Royal has been welcoming customers for almost 200 years. It began life in 1826 as a tavern on nearby Register Place before moving into its current home on West Register Street in 1863. The striking Victorian building was originally intended to include a gas showroom, but it opened instead as the Café Royal Hotel and Oyster Bar. Around 1900, the interior gained many of the beautiful features seen today, including its famous Royal Doulton ceramic tile panels. Saved from demolition in the late 1960s and now Category A listed, Café Royal remains one of Edinburgh’s most celebrated and historic pubs.
Step inside Café Royal and it feels like you’ve entered another era. Rich mahogany woodwork, ornate plaster ceilings and polished brass create a grand but welcoming space. The walls are lined with the pub’s famous Royal Doulton ceramic tile panels, each showing people involved in food, drink and country pursuits, adding plenty to admire. Large mirrors reflect the light from elegant chandeliers, while stained glass and etched windows complete the Victorian character. Cosy booths, traditional tables and a long, impressive bar make it easy to settle in, giving the whole pub a timeless, relaxed and unmistakably Edinburgh feel.
A great selection of 5 cask ales, a still cider and a great choice of keg options to choose from. I went for Little Lady by MòR Beers, a West Coast session IPA with grapefruit, passion fruit and citrus flavours and a crisp, hoppy finish.
