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A Friday visit around Whitby heading out on the X93 bus from Scarborough taking around an hour. Whitby is well known for its picturesque harbour, cliff top views and its historic abbey ruins. It is famous for its association with Captain James Cook who served his apprenticeship in the town. As well as having both Dracula and Gothic connections. Whilst here I visited a number of Micropubs, Craft Bars, Independent Pubs alongside a Brewery Tap and a Brewpub. Lots of great quirky shops and streets to explore here.
The Quirky Den
My first call is over the swing bridge and to “The Quirky Den”. This is located on a small shopping street called “Grape Lane”, historically said to be once known as “Grope Lane” due to its prostitution. This was built around 1639 and has seen former uses firstly as a house and later on as a Jewellers and Spiritualist. It opened in August 2018 with the first owners as “The Quirky Den” and changed owners in July 2023. I met Aaron today who showed me around and explained the ethos of the pub.
This is due to reopen at the end of February but well worth dropping into Thursday to Sunday where a range of 4 cask ales are served alongside a number of keg beers and a big selection on Rum, Gin and more. Theakston’s Brewery – Old Peculiar from the Wood is also served here constantly, the only location serving it for some distance. The history on the beam above the bar shows a history of the pub and its former uses.
A walk up the 199 steps next up towards the ruins of Whitby Abbey. The steps are far easier coming down than going up.
When you get to the top, take a look at the view below over Whitby. The views are breathtaking.
Whitby Brewery Tap
A short walk from the top of the steps brings me to “Whitby Brewery Tap”, which stands in the shadow of the ruins of Whitby Abbey. The brewery first started brewing in 2013 and has evolved quite a bit since then. The tap room now has a great outside area with a bar and shop on entering, serving drinks to drink in or bottles etc to take away. To the side is a large inside seating area which includes a stage for live music, part of the brewery and a pizza oven.
A fantastic selection of cask beers all brewed on the premises, alongside a number of keg options. I started with “Whitby Waler”, a delicious traditional English Bitter. I went onto “Jet Black”, named after Whitby Jet (derived from the fossilised remains of ancient trees, found in deposits all along the coast in these parts, and which is fashioned into pieces of jewellery). A delicious liquorice, coffee and toffee porter.
The Green Dragon Alehouse
A walk back down the 199 steps again and back to Grape Lane for a visit to “The Green Dragon Alehouse”. This was opened in 2016 by two enthusiastic brothers. It operates as a bottle shop at one side and a taproom at the other. The bottle shop side has a large selection of mainly local beers and ciders as well as some from further afield.
The other half is a taproom serving up to 8 keg beers, ranging in style and strength. I went with a fruit beer from Pravda Brewery based in the Ukraine. “What the Fruit – Cherry” was a delicious fruity beer packed full of flavour.
Arch & Abbey
A walk back over the swing bridge and up the hill to Skinner Street located off Flowergate. My visit here was to “Arch & Abbey” which opened in 2018 in a former up market dress shop. A really quirky pub with a great décor inside. A large clock on the wall above the pub front on the outside looks amazing. Lots of local gins for sale next to the bar as well. Was great chatting to Janine and family behind the bar here.
A great line up of 4 cask beers, alongside 3 keg lines and great selection of cans and bottles to choose from. I went with a beer from Wensleydale Brewery based in Leyburn. “Poacher V.8”, was a delicious hazy pale ale packed full of hops.
The Little Angel
A short walk around the corner back onto Flowergate brings me to my next call into “The Little Angel”. A fantastic Grade II listed pub which also has its own brewery on site, “Lady Luck Brewery”. A friendly welcoming pub with three connected rooms around a central bar, the one I sat in was called Captains Cabin. The beer garden at the rear offers fantastic views over Whitby and steam trains coming into Whitby on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway when they are running.
6 cask beers on the bar today, alongside ciders and a large selection of keg beers. 4 of the cask beers were from the on site brewery. I went with “Kraken”, one of their own beers, a tasty and easy drinking pale ale. They also offer some of their beers in cans to take away.
Beer O’Clock
A short walk downhill brings me next to Whitby’s newest Micropub “Beer O’Clock” which opened in December 2022. This was formerly Masons Greengrocers. This is at this point the only Micropub in the country called Beer O’Clock”. A really great modern style theme to this pub with bay seating down one side and tables on the other, and some great stone walls.
4 Cask beers available on the bar with Timothy Taylors “Landlord” being on permanently. There are also 4 keg lines alongside these cask beers and a range of ciders. I went with “Alichino” from Durham Brewery. A delicious easy drinking pale ale.
The Esk Vaults
Heading downhill again, this time going into “The Esk Vaults”, an upstairs bar classed as a “Craft Bistro”, which offers craft beer on keg and in cans/bottles alongside a food menu which includes pizza, nachos, toasties and lots more and smelt delicious.
A great line up of 4 keg beers which included a sour, pale, stout and lager, so a wide range. I went with a sour beer from Edinburgh based Vault City Brewery. Their “Iron Brew” sour beer is delicious and tastes identical to the cans of Iron Bru.
The Black Horse
A walk back over the swing bridge and onto my next calling point “The Black Horse”. This is located near the Old Market Square where whippings of thieves and beggars used to take place. This is a Grade II listed pub which dates back to the 1600’s. A great little pub packed full of character, with a small front bar, along with a larger back bar.
The food menu here is delicious served “Yapas”, a range of Yorkshire Tapas featuring meat and cheese boards, Whitby Crab, plus lots more. I opted for the Yorkshire Cheeseboard and Doorstep Style Cheese on Toast (Rarebit style). Both were outstanding and worth every penny.
3 cask ales served here, 2 of them being on constantly alongside a guest beer. I went with “Rhatas” from Black Dog Brewery. A delicious English Bitter. The brewery had started brewing in Whitby in 1997 but has finished by 2000. In 2001 the beers were brewed under contract by Hambleton Brewery.
A walk back towards the Railway Station next, back over the swing bridge. Its great to be able to see the swing bridge in action after crossing over.
The Waiting Room
My last call of the day, is located in the buildings of Whitby Railway Station (located directly next to Whitby Bus Station). This was Whitby’s first Micropub which opened in April 2017. This is now run by the owners of Arch & Abbey which I visited earlier in the day. A really small bar being six-yard-square, and a great airey feel to the pub, full of railway memorabilia and photos from around Whitby.
A great line up of 5 cask beers with a good range of styles, alongside a wide range of ciders and bottled beers and cider. I went with “Cathedral Beeches” from Worksop based Welbeck Abbey Brewery. The name of the beer coming from an area of woodland with towering Beech trees in which young lovers at Welbeck used to come and carve their names. A great tasting pale ale with herbal aromas.
Micropub Adventures 