14/09/24 – Chesterfield Great Historic Pub Tour

• WordPress
• Facebook
• Twitter
• Instagram

If you enjoy reading please consider “buying me a pint”, this will help to cover my hosting and image hosting and help to ensure further trips can go ahead!
BUY ME A PINT

Chesterfield Pub Tour: A Historic Journey Through Pubs

Today, I find myself returning to Chesterfield to participate in the Chesterfield Great Historic Pub Tour organised by Shaun. Renowned as both “The Heart of Industrial England” and “The Gateway to the Peak District”, Chesterfield originated as a Roman fort at the fringes of the Roman Empire, benefiting from excellent transport connections that facilitated its development into a thriving market town during the Middle Ages. The tour will guide me through several pubs, including one that is currently closed, each rich in history and narratives. It promises to be an exceptional experience that I wholeheartedly recommend if the opportunity arises.

Today’s Chesterfield Pub Tour offered a historic journey through pubs rich in narratives. Starting at The Pig & Pump, known for live music, it continues to Spa Lane Vaults, The Rutland, The Golden Fleece, The Royal Oak, The Market Pub, The Hidden Knight, The Barley Mow, Gasoline American Bar, Chesterfield Arms, and concludes at The Neptune Beer Emporium. Each establishment has a unique history and offers a diverse selection of ales and beverages.

Check out Chesterfield Great Historic Pub Tour on Facebook or CLICK HERE to view the booklet.

The Pig & Pump

The initial destination and the first visit of the day was “The Pig & Pump”. This establishment has undergone several name changes throughout its history, originally known as “The Swan Inn” and later as “The White Swan,” colloquially referred to as the Mucky Duck. The name is derived from land bestowed by Saint Hugh, whose emblem is a white swan, a motif that is still visible in the stained glass window at the front of the building. The pub was reconstructed in 1902 following the demolition of the previous structure to facilitate the widening of St Mary’s Gate.

From the 1960s until the 1990s, the venue gained a reputation as a live music hotspot, famously hosting Pulp during their inaugural performance of “Common People.” Since 1998, it has adopted various identities, including “The Avenue,” a Chinese restaurant, and “White Swan,” before finally becoming the “Pig & Pump” in 2018. The name signifies “Pig” for its renowned sausage and mash dish and “Pump” for its extensive selection of real ales.

Currently, the establishment boasts an impressive array of 10 real ales, a tastefully decorated spacious seating area distributed across multiple levels, and an exceptional outdoor beer garden that extends from the side to the rear of the pub. My preferred beer was “DDH Pale Rider,” which is now produced by Thornbridge Brewery under the Kelham Island Brewery label. It offers a delightful combination of intense hop characteristics, citrus notes, and a biscuity taste.

Spa Lane Vaults

My second visit is to “Spa Lane Vaults”. As this establishment is part of a chain, I will focus on its historical background rather than the beverage selections available. Constructed in the 1800s, this venue was originally intended for visitors attracted to the spa, which was believed to possess healing properties. Its establishment also facilitated the development of the nearby Scarsdale Brewery, which garnered numerous accolades, the last of which was awarded in 1957 before its acquisition by Whitbread and subsequent closure. The pub is situated on St Mary’s Gates, one of Chesterfield’s oldest thoroughfares, which has previously been known as Churchgate, Soutergate, and Southergate.

In the 1880s, the pub’s name was changed to the “Phoenix Inn,” under the management of Billy Green, who was then the Pitmen’s Bantamweight Boxing Champion of England. It is said that he kept a pair of boxing gloves behind the bar, challenging any troublemakers to settle their disputes in the ring with him; notably, no one accepted his invitation. He served as the landlord for an impressive 52 years. The pub was managed by Enterprise from 1990 until 1999, after which Wetherspoons took over in 2001. Over the years, a stunning mock Tudor facade has been added to the building, enhancing its visual appeal and prominence.

The Rutland

A walk through the grounds of St Mary’s and All Saints churchyard brings me to the third call. Famous for its crooked spire at a height of 70 metres, and leaning by 9 feet and 6 inches, becoming crooked when 32 tonnes of lead were added in the 1600s leading to expansion and contraction of the lead. The call is to “The Rutland”. This was originally the home of Samuel Dutton who was Mayor of Chesterfield and impressive 8 times between 1818 and 1845. It was purchased after his death in 1848, enlargement and with lots of improvements it opened as the Rutland Hotel in 1860. The pub itself was a lot bigger than what it is today, having basically been cut in half to allow Stephenson Place to be widened, resulting in an unusual triangular-shaped pub.

Whitbread purchased the pub in 1960, and soon after the Vergers House next door was incorporated into the pub, so when entering today seems on two totally different levels, and is today run by The Pub People.

They offer a fantastic range of 5 cask ales, keg beers and ciders, and the seating outside offers great views of the church. I selected a beer from the Little Brewing Company located in Derby, specifically the “Lone Ranger Series: Nectaron.” This series features single hop beers that utilize Nectaron hops, which impart delightful flavours of peach, pineapple, and grapefruit.

The Golden Fleece

The next stop involved a brief stroll to “The Golden Fleece,” another establishment within a chain of pubs owned by Heineken and leased by the Jarvis family, with its historical background detailed below. This pub first opened its doors in 1762, as indicated by an old sign that displays this date. In 1864, it was acquired by J B White and Son, a wine merchant, and subsequently renamed the High Street Vaults. In 1939, the structure was divided into three separate premises. A charming mock Tudor facade was added to the front to harmonize with the Victoria Centre across the street, during which it was revealed that some of the timber used in the original construction had been repurposed from the remnants of Bolsover Castle.

The establishment underwent a significant remodel around the year 2000, leading to the demolition of The Sportsman to create a new rear entrance, while Whites Bar was transformed into a card shop.

The Royal Oak

The subsequent destination entailed a short walk to “The Royal Oak,” which has remained closed for several years, although it has been documented as an Inn since as early as 1722. This remarkable Grade II listed structure originates from the 12th Century, making it the oldest inn in Chesterfield and one of the most ancient in Derbyshire. The brick section of the edifice can be traced back to 1684.

Initially, it served as a rest house for the Knights Templar during the era of the Holy Crusades, and following the medieval period, it was repurposed into two butcher shops. Its location in the heart of the Shambles is fitting, as the term derives from the Anglo-Saxon word “shammels,” which refers to shelves used in slaughterhouses and butcher establishments. It is hoped that this establishment will eventually be revived and reopened to the public.

The Market Pub

The next stop involved a brief stroll to “The Market Pub”. This establishment was originally part of a row of terraced shops. In 1864, a gentleman named Thomas Evinson took over a former grocery store and established himself as a Wholesale and Retail Dealer in Ales and Porters sourced from Samuel Allsopp and Sons. By 1869, he expanded his operations into the adjacent shop, creating a pub known as Post Office Vaults.

Over the years, the pub has undergone several name changes, including New Square Inn, The Market Inn, and The Market Tavern, before finally adopting the name The Market Pub in 1892. During the Second World War, the pub was partially requisitioned by the HM Inspectorate of Munitions, and an Anderson-style air raid shelter was constructed at the rear, which remains in place today. Inside, one can observe the division between the two shop units, with one side featuring a stone flag floor and the other adorned with wooden floorboards. This is complemented by a pleasant outdoor seating area at the front that overlooks the Market Place.

The Market Pub is well-known for its outstanding cuisine and authentic ales, currently featuring an impressive selection of five real ales available at the bar, each varying in style and potency. Today, I opted for “Deception,” a delightful New Zealand pale ale crafted by Abbeydale Brewery in Sheffield, which utilizes Nelson Sauvin hops for a light and refreshing taste.

The Hidden Knight

A brief stroll leads me to “The Hidden Knight”. Originally constructed as a vault for a beer and wine merchant, the cellar beneath is approximately four times larger than the pub above. This establishment would have served as an impressive storage area for alcoholic beverages prior to the advent of refrigeration. Additionally, a significant portion of the space was utilized for pig rearing.

Over the years, it has been known by various names, including Soresby Vaults, Dyson Vaults, and Woods Vaults. In 1905, it was renamed The Welbeck Inn. The current name, “The Hidden Knight,” pays homage to Lord Soresby of Soresby Hall, who clandestinely assisted in sheltering Catholic priests and knights from persecution. The pub is divided into two levels, with a Library situated on the upper floor, and features a charming small beer garden at the rear.

Currently, customers have the opportunity to choose from a variety of 2 cask ales and numerous keg beers at the bar, all within a welcoming and cozy environment. I decided to select “Surrey Nirvana,” a session IPA crafted by Hogs Back Brewery in Surrey. This delightful beer is brewed with Cascade, Centennial, and Fuggle hops, resulting in a light and fragrant taste profile.

The Barley Mow

A brief stroll leads me to my next destination, “The Barley Mow”. This establishment was constructed by George Green in 1802, as indicated by the inscription “GG 1802” along the pathway. It is situated at the upper end of Angel Yard, which derives its name from The Angel, a prominent hotel located at the yard’s lower end. The yard itself was the site of a tragic event in 1912, when local resident Mary Churchill took the lives of three of her children, subsequently recovering at Broadmoor Psychiatric Hospital.

The stained glass windows in this pub still display the lettering of Wards Brewery and the name Barley Mow. For those unfamiliar, a “stack” of barley is referred to as a “mow,” which explains the pub’s name. If one observes closely, a mouse can be spotted hiding within the decor. Remarkably, the pub has had only four landlords over the past century, with the current landlords being Ady and Sarah Matthews, who continue to manage the establishment today.

Today at the bar, customers can select from two cask ales, in addition to several keg options, including “Mangolicious” from Laine Brew Co., based in Brighton. This fruity pale ale is abundant in mango flavour, offering a light and refreshing drinking experience.

Gasoline American Bar

A brief walk around the corner leads me to “Gasoline – American Bar”, located on Saltergate. The name Saltergate originates from the horse-drawn merchants who transported salt, cheese, and textiles from Cheshire into the town along this route. The establishment was constructed in 1864 and was initially known as “The County.”
In 1867, members of the Chesterfield Cricket Club convened here to deliberate on the formation of a football club, which they named Chesterfield. By around 1920, William Stones acquired ownership, and like many pubs in the vicinity, it adopted a mock Tudor façade.
In 2016, it transitioned into a music bar named “The County Music Bar,” and in 2022, it underwent rebranding to become an American Craft Beer bar called “Gasoline.”. Additionally, a spacious and attractive beer garden at the rear serves as a delightful hidden treasure.

This modern and elegant establishment offers an array of keg options alongside American craft canned beers. Today, I opted for two of the craft cans, beginning with “Southern Girl,” produced by Sycamore Brewing in North Carolina. It is a delightful golden pale ale that is easy to drink. The second choice was “Alien Hat – Watermelon Sour Ale” from Columbia Craft Brewing Company in South Carolina, which is a kettle sour that boasts an excellent watermelon flavour.

The Chesterfield Arms

A brief stroll with Shaun and Suzi leads to Chesterfield Arms, established in 1857 and originally known as The Chesterfield Arms Hotel. This charming corner pub features a spacious interior and an expansive outdoor beer garden. Over the years, it has garnered numerous awards, and since 2022, it has proudly introduced its own in-house brewery, “Resting Devil,” which is visible through large windows. The establishment also offers homemade pizzas that emit an enticing aroma. The bar staff extends a warm and friendly welcome to patrons today.

The name of the brewery is derived from a legend in which a Devil, intrigued by the news of a virgin marrying in the Church, turned to catch a glimpse of this extraordinary event. It is said that if such an occurrence were to happen again, the spire would straighten.

Currently, customers have the opportunity to choose from an impressive array of 12 cask ales and a wide selection of keg beers, with numerous options brewed on the premises. Furthermore, there is a diverse range of bottled beverages, including a strong Barleywine called “Knucker.” I began my experience with “Chupacarba,” a delightful hazy Mexican pale ale infused with Agave and Lime, which presented a wonderful blend of flavours. Next, I sampled “Banshee,” a flavourful West Coast IPA crafted with Amarillo, Columbus, and Azacca hops, delivering a rich taste profile.

The Neptune Beer Emporium

My concluding destination is a brief stroll to “The Neptune Beer Emporium” a well-regarded beerhouse that serves as a hidden treasure nestled within a residential street. The interior features a central bar surrounded by two rooms, with outdoor seating available at the front and an impressive large beer garden located at the back.

The bar boasts an excellent variety of both cask and keg beers, showcasing a range of styles and strengths. There is an abundance of options to choose from! Today, the bar features nine cask beers in addition to an excellent selection of approximately eight keg beers. I opted for the “Autumn Berry Maple Swirl” from Vault City Brewing, located in Edinburgh. This delightful sour beer draws inspiration from spiced pastries adorned with sweet vanilla icing.

Street Spirit

“Street Spirit” is a remarkable establishment situated in the heart of Chesterfield on Vicar Lane. It offers an impressive selection of cans, bottles, and a vast array of various spirits. This shop is an ideal destination for those wishing to explore and enjoy a leisurely browsing experience.