18/04/26 – Durham

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From Station Stop to Last Orders: A Durham Pub Journey

I spent a day exploring Durham, starting at The Waiting Room on the station platform, then moving between a mix of historic pubs and newer micropubs across the city. Each place had its own character, from centuries-old buildings like Ye Old Elm Tree and The Dun Cow to more recent additions like The Holy GrAle and Fram Ferment. Along the way, I enjoyed a range of well-kept ales and friendly welcomes. Whether tucked into quiet corners, lively bars or hidden spots by the river, every stop offered something different, making it a varied and enjoyable crawl through Durham’s rich pub scene.

Durham began as a place of refuge in 995, when monks carrying the body of Saint Cuthbert settled on a wooded hill by the River Wear. Over time, a small community grew into a city shaped by its cathedral and castle, both symbols of power and faith. Through the centuries, Durham became known for religion, learning and later coal mining, which brought new life to the area. Today, its winding streets, historic buildings and riverside setting still tell the story of a place that has grown steadily while holding onto its past.

The Waiting Room

Yesterday I headed up the East Coast Mainline to Durham, and my first visit of the day was literally as soon as I stepped off the train to The Waiting Room – Durham. Sitting on the northbound platform at Durham station, this building dates back to 1872, when it was built as a ladies’ first-class waiting room during the great age of railway travel. Spaces like this were designed to give women a separate, more comfortable place to wait, reflecting the customs of the time. As travel habits changed, it fell out of use and spent many years as storage, largely forgotten by passing passengers. In 2018, it was brought back into use as a micropub, giving the old waiting room a fresh role while keeping its link to Durham’s Victorian railway past.

Inside, it feels like stepping into a small piece of the past. The room is compact but full of character, with deep green walls, panelled details and a worn wooden floor underfoot. Leather bench seating runs along the walls, paired with small tables, and there’s a cast-iron fireplace that gives the space a cosy centre. Soft lighting and a chandelier add a gentle glow, with framed prints dotted around. Big windows look straight onto the platform, where trains pass by now and then, blending with quiet conversation to give the place a relaxed, easygoing feel.

A great warm welcome as soon as I arrived. On the bar a cask ale, alongside a range of keg options to choose from. I went for Wylam Gold by Wylam, a golden ale with light citrus notes and a fresh, easy finish.

Kingslodge Inn

A short walk from Durham Railway Station brought me to The Kingslodge Inn. Tucked into the trees of Flass Vale just off Waddington Street, Kingslodge Inn feels miles from anywhere, even though it’s only a short stroll from Durham’s cathedral and castle. The building carries on Durham’s long tradition of welcoming pubs, giving people a place to rest, eat and drink close to the city centre. Over time it’s been updated to blend its older character with modern comforts, and it’s built a strong reputation with visitors along the way. Today, it’s a relaxed spot to eat, drink or stay—part peaceful escape, part handy base for exploring Durham.

Inside feels warm and easy-going, with soft lighting and plenty of cosy corners to settle into. There are cushioned booths by the windows, patterned fabrics, and a mix of wooden tables and chairs that give it a relaxed pub feel. Exposed brick, beams, and framed prints add a bit of character without making it feel fussy. Some areas are a little brighter, while others are more tucked away, so you can pick what suits. Whether you’re here for a drink, a meal, or a longer stay, it feels comfortable and welcoming throughout.

On the bar a choice of 2 cask ales, alongside with a variety of keg options.
I went for Yankee by Rooster’s Brewing Co., an American pale ale with floral and citrus hop notes that’s light and easy to drink.

Ye Old Elm Tree

My next visit in Durham was to YeOld ElmTree. Ye Old Elm Tree in Durham is a historic pub with origins in the early 17th century, making it one of the city’s oldest licensed premises. It stood within the medieval suburb of Crossgate, an area just outside the original city walls but closely linked to Durham Cathedral. The building has been altered over time, though elements of its structure date back several centuries. It would have served workers, residents and travellers moving through the city.

Inside feels warm and lived-in, with chunky wooden beams overhead and panelled walls covered in old beer badges and signs. There’s a mix of snug bench seating and small tables, with soft lighting that keeps things relaxed, plus a fireplace and log burner for cooler days. Out the back, the covered beer garden is a real highlight, with wooden benches, hanging string lights and a clear roof that lets in plenty of light. It’s spacious but still feels tucked away, with stacks of kegs and greenery around the edges adding to the character.

A great warm welcome from Laura when I arrived. A great selection on the bar of 5 cask ales, alongside with a selection of craft keg and other options.
I went for Gold by Brentwood Brewing Company, a golden ale with light malt sweetness and fruity hop notes and a smooth finish.

The Holy GrAle

Over the road was The Holy GrAle. Tucked up Crossgate, The Holy GrAle opened in 2019 in a building that previously housed a board-games café. The pub was created by the former landlord of Ye Old Elm Tree further up the hill, bringing new life to the space. Crossgate itself has a long past, historically a busy route into Durham, lined with homes and pubs for centuries. The building sits within this historic street, blending into its character while adding a newer chapter. Since opening, The Holy GrAle has become part of the area’s ongoing story as a place to gather and socialise.

Inside feels warm and easygoing from the moment you walk in. Up front, natural light pours in around small tables and comfy seating, with shelves of books and a few playful touches adding to the charm. Further in, a long wooden table with bright stools sits opposite fridges packed with cans and bottles, giving it a relaxed, sociable feel. Soft lighting and a mix of seating make it easy to settle in, whether you’re stopping for a quick pint or staying a while with friends.

A great line up of beers on the bar with 2 cask ales and a massive selection of 12 keg lines. 2 ciders in addition to this and fridges packed full of cans and bottles. I went for Fizzy Rainbow Belts by Vault City Brewing, a sweet and tangy sour packed with fruity candy flavours and a sharp, zingy finish.

The Shakespeare

Walking down towards the centre of Durham and over the river brought me to The Shakespeare, Durham. Tucked along Saddler Street, The Shakespeare is one of Durham’s oldest pubs, set in a building with medieval roots often said to date back to the 1100s. Its name comes from a theatre that once stood nearby, where actors and locals gathered in the 18th and 19th centuries. After the theatre was destroyed by fire in 1869, the pub carried the name forward. It’s been part of Durham life ever since, welcoming students, locals and visitors alike. There’s even a long-standing reputation for ghostly tales, which only adds a bit of charm to its long, well-worn story.

Inside feels warm and inviting, with a series of small rooms that naturally draw you in. Dark wood panelling, soft lighting and worn floors give it plenty of character, while little details like glass-fronted cabinets and old furniture add to the sense of age. There are quiet corners with bench seating and tucked-away tables, alongside a more open bar where people gather and chat. A snug area with leather chairs by the fireplace offers a comfortable spot to settle in. It’s easy to feel at home here, whether you’re dropping in briefly or staying for a few rounds.

On the bar a choice of 3 cask ales alongside a selection of keg choices.
I went for Landlord by Timothy Taylor’s Brewery, a classic pale ale with citrus and gentle hop notes and a smooth, balanced finish.

The Victoria

My next visit on Saturday was to The Victoria. The Victoria Inn on Hallgarth Street in Durham opened in 1899 during a period of growth as the city expanded beyond its medieval centre. It was designed by local architect Joseph Oswald, who was responsible for many buildings in the area at the time. Built to serve nearby residents and workers, it quickly became part of everyday life in this part of Durham. Unlike many pubs that changed hands or were rebuilt, the Victoria has remained largely unchanged in ownership and purpose, continuing its long-standing role in the local community for well over a century.

Inside, the Victoria Inn feels like stepping into a pub that’s been gently lived in for years. The curved wooden bar is lined with pumps and crowded shelves, with rows of old figurines watching over it. Rooms open out one by one, each filled with patterned wallpaper, framed photos and dark wood. There are fireplaces, snug corners and small tables tucked close together. Soft lighting and quiet chatter give it an easy, unhurried feel, where people settle in, stay a while, and let the evening drift along. It has a warm, familiar charm that makes returning feel like second nature.

On the bar a selection of 5 cask ales, alongside a still cider and a variety of keg choices. The freshly made toastie I had was delicious aswell. I went for Northern Pale by Hadrian Border Brewery, a light pale ale with citrus and grapefruit notes and a gentle bitter finish.

The Dun Cow

Up next was The Dun Cow, Durham City . The Dun Cow is widely thought to be Durham’s oldest surviving pub, with roots going back to the late 1500s. It stands on Old Elvet, a historic street near the city’s courts and former prison. Its name comes from the Dun Cow legend, where monks carrying the body of Saint Cuthbert followed a milkmaid searching for her lost cow to Dun Holm, now Durham. This moment is said to have led to the city’s founding. Over time, the pub became known for its links to local life, including its darker past, when hangmen are believed to have stayed there before executions nearby.

Inside, the Dun Cow is split between a main room and a snug at the front, each with its own easy charm. The main room has a long cushioned bench beneath patterned windows, dark wooden tables and a worn floor, with low beams and a stove set into a solid fireplace at one end. There’s a proper lived-in feel, with old photos and bits of local history dotted around. Up front, the snug is smaller and more tucked away, a quieter spot that suits a couple of pints and a good chat. It all feels relaxed and easy to settle into.

On the bar a choice of 3 cask ales, alongside a variety of keg options. I went for Blonde by Castle Eden, a light blonde ale with gentle malt and a hint of citrus and a fresh, easy finish.

The Woodman Inn

A walk coming out of the rear of the Dun Cow and back over the river brings me to The Woodman Inn Durham. The Woodman Inn on Gilesgate has been part of Durham life for close to 200 years, set along one of the old roads into the city. Not long ago it was at risk of closing, but local people came together and formed a community group to try and save it. While they didn’t end up buying it, their effort helped keep the pub going. It reopened in 2022 after a refresh, and today it still feels like a proper local—friendly, relaxed, and shaped by the people who care about it.

Inside, the Woodman Inn feels warm and relaxed, with a proper pub layout that’s easy to settle into. There’s exposed brick, wood panelling and comfy seating tucked around small tables, plus a pool table and quiet corners if you fancy a slower pace. Step outside and it really opens up, with a large beer garden lined with benches, an outside bar for easy refills, and a covered area dressed with lights and flowers. There’s even a summer house-style seating space, giving you a cosy spot whatever the weather. It’s the kind of place where you can drift between spaces and stay a while.

3 cask ales to choose from on the bar, alongside a wide choice of keg options. I went for Ironsand by The Consett Ale Works, a New Zealand pale ale with bright hop notes and a fresh, lively finish.

The Hop Knocker

Jumping a short distance on a bus brought me to The Hop Knocker – Bottle Shop & Micro Pub. Hop Knocker opened in 2018 as “The Hop Knocker” on Marshall Terrace in Gilesgate, just outside Durham city centre. Before that, the unit had a fairly everyday past as a small local shop, part of the steady run of businesses along this old road into town. The area itself has grown and shifted over centuries, shaped by passing trade and local life. Since opening, it’s settled in easily and feels right at home on the street. It’s owned and run by Ben — a good friend of mine — and that personal touch really stands out, giving the place a genuinely warm, welcoming feel.

Inside, Hop Knocker feels cosy and easy to settle into. It’s a compact space, with chunky wooden tables, bright green chairs and a run of well-stocked fridges packed with cans. Handwritten boards and bits of brewery signage give it a relaxed, personal touch, while the big front window lets in plenty of light. Out the back, there’s a small beer garden with wooden benches and a covered corner, ideal for a quiet pint when the weather plays along. It’s warm, welcoming and the kind of place where it’s easy to linger a while.

It was fantastic catching up with Ben again, alongside Neil and Dave from CAMRA Durham . A single cask ales, a wide variety of keg options and even more choices in the fridges which are packed full of cans and bottles to enjoy. I went for Rant by Wylam, an English pale ale with juicy citrus and tropical hop notes and a soft, fruity finish.

Fram Ferment

Back on the bus again to the other side of Durham ti visit Fram Ferment. Fram Ferment in Framwellgate Moor opened in 2019, giving a new lease of life to a building that had previously been an NHS clinic on Front Street. The area itself grew during the 1800s as nearby collieries brought workers to what had once been open farmland, shaping the village into a busy local hub. While the pits have long gone, that strong sense of community has never really left. Today, the space has been transformed into a welcoming pub, where people still come together — just as they did before, only now over well-kept beer instead of appointments.

Inside, Fram Ferment feels warm and welcoming, with dark blue walls, soft lighting and plenty of wood throughout. Shelves of bottles and trailing plants line the room, while a wall of colourful beer labels adds a bit of fun, alongside a bright “Consulting Room No. 2” sign that nods to its past as an NHS clinic, with the toilet signs carrying that on. Seating is a relaxed mix of benches, chairs and small tables, making it easy to settle in, and the fridges packed with cans and bottles are well worth a browse.

On the bar a great line up with 2 cask ales (usually 3 but one had just run off), 6 keg lines and a mix of still and sparkling ciders. I went for Leaves On the Line by George Samuel Brewery Ltd, a golden bitter with light malt and a gentle citrus hop finish.

Station House

My final call of an excellent day in Durham was to The Station House. Tucked beside the railway on North Road, The Station House occupies a building with roots stretching back to Durham’s Georgian expansion in the early 1800s. For much of its later life it served as a shop, most recently a furniture store, reflecting the everyday trade of this busy route into the city. In 2015, the space was thoughtfully converted into a pub, giving new life to an old building while keeping its long connection to the changing character of Durham.

Step inside The Station House and it feels warm and welcoming, with a relaxed, lived-in charm. The space is compact but full of character, with wooden floors, deep blue panelling and soft, low lighting from hanging bulbs. The bar is a small hatch, where you’re served through to a row of taps and casks just behind, giving it a proper hands-on feel. High tables and stools sit alongside a few cosy corners and a split-level area, with steps leading up and down. Walls are dotted with artwork, pump clips and framed bits, making it feel personal and well cared for.

It was great meeting one of my followers Andrew who lives locally in here. On the bar 5 cask lines, 3 craft keg lines and a variety of still ciders. Plus a fridge full of cans and bottles to browse through. I went for Wakin’ Snakes by Buxton Brewery, an IPA with bright citrus and piney hop notes and a firm, bitter finish.